Current Featured | Previously Featured | What's New | Sort of New | Oldies But Goodies | Saturday In-Store Tastings


WHAT'S NEW AT BEEKMAN'S?
(New arrivals. See Sort of New for others)

Whites & Rosés
Weingut & Gastehaus Berger Grüner Veltliner, 2007
($12.99/Liter) - This is a delightful, dry wine from the Kamptal Kremstal region of Austria. It is light in body, but the pretty fragrance is accompanied by delicate flavors of white pepper, lovage, and sorrel. In a New York Times column titled “Best White Whites Under $10” (do the math, and this wine comes to $9.74/750 ml), Eric Asimov wrote, “3 Stars! Fresh and expressive, with citrus, floral, and mineral flavors that linger in the mouth. It practically invites you to have a second glass.” Cultured yeasts are used for a slow fermentation in temperature-controlled stainless steel vats. E. & M. Berger have 37 acres of vineyards on several different soil types. In addition to Grüner (the Austrians hate that abbreviation), they grow Riesling, Welschriesling, Zweigelt, and other varietals.

Domaine Tariquet Sauvignon Blanc, 2006 ($13.49) - The founding and early history of Domaine Tariquet is a fascinating but long one. Go to www.tariquet.com/uk/history-tariquet.asp; it is worth the time. Located in Gascony, the domaine produces very fine Armagnac as well as a line of quality varietal wines. The estate-bottled Sauvignon Blanc is 100% varietal. Gascony's mild climate offers this grape variety a new range of aromas. Its distinctive bouquet shows fine intense floral notes, some minerality, and an underlying suggestion of ripe grapes. It is fresh and refined with an attractive intensity. This is a wonderful wine with fish, shellfish, and white meat.

Valdelainos Rueda, 2006 ($13.99) - Unless a white wine is a Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, or Pinot Grigio, it is likely to face a cool reception. Here is a lovely introduction to the charms of Spanish Verdejo (96%) and Viura (4%). The hand-harvested, estate-grown fruit was aged only two months in stainless steel to preserve freshness. This very attractive, light, refreshing, and clean wine shows just a touch of grapefruit character. Wine Enthusiast: “Top 100 Values” 90 points “Consistency is a virtue in this business, and this wine tastes almost exactly like the highly recommended 2005. The nose blends green grass and golden fruits, while the palate is clean, intense, and snappy. This is a wine that sings, and the interspersed notes of bell pepper, grapefruit, and mineral are just right for Verdejo”

Chateau Valcombe Rosé, Côtes du Ventoux, 2007 ($16.59) - This terrific dry rosé was bottled unfined and unfiltered by Paul Jeune, the sixth generation winemaker and owner of Domaine de Montpertuis in Châteauneuf du Pape. He acquired Valcombe in 2000 from Claude Fonquerle who had rediscovered the potential of this extraordinary site at an altitude of 1000 feet on the lower slopes of majestic Mont Ventoux. This elevation offers relief from the hot, dry Mediterranean climate. “Galets,” rocks worn smooth and round by the Rhône River, cover the ground. They reduce evaporation of the scarce moisture, and they capture energy from the sun during the day, radiating it back on the vines at night. These factors insure ideal ripening conditions for the grapes. The difficult climate, rocky, infertile soil, and the old vines combine to limit yields and produce remarkable quality. This is a blend of mostly Cinsault with some Grenache and Counoise. Most of the vines are 60 years old. Despite the dramatic weakening of the dollar since last year, the price of this new release is unchanged from the 2006.

Reds
Baronia del Montsant Flor de Englora, 2006 ($19.99) - Robert Parker: 92 “The 2006 Flor de Englora is a candidate for best red wine value in my Spanish tastings. It is a blend of 63% Garnacha, 32% Carinena, with the balance  of Syrah and Merlot all aged in stainless steel. Purple-colored, it offers a captivating bouquet of mineral, black cherry, and black raspberry. This is followed by a plush, rich, layered wine with gobs of sweet fruit and no hard edges. It exhibits superb balance and a long finish. It is all about pure pleasure. Drink it 2008-13.”

Boroli Barbera d’Alba “Bricco 4 Fratelli,” 2006 ($18.99) - I don’t remember why we discontinued this wonderful Barbera last year, but this new vintage is superb. Intense color is accompanied by compelling aromas and flavors of ripe raspberry and blackberry with vanilla undertones. It was matured in cask for six months. Silvano and Elena Boroli bought the historic, but neglected, Cascina Bompe on top of the Madonna di Como hill, just outside Alba. This magnificent site was worshipped by the ancient Celts and has produced great wine for centuries. The Borolis also produce a fine Barolo from the La Brunella farm in Castigione Faletto.

Los 800, 2003 ($24.99) - Here is another Spanish wine that offers tremendous value. Compare this to a $40 California Cabernet! The name of this Priorat wine derives from the fact that all the vines are planted at an altitude of at least 800 meters. Aged for six months in a combination of French and American oak, this blend of 50% Grenache, 30% Carignane, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 10% Syrah is not a huge wine. But there is good depth of fruit, the balance is superb, and it components are beautifully integrated. Stephen Tanzer: 90 “Bright red. Fresh raspberries and candied cherry on the nose plus a jolt of minerals adding energy. Crisp, nervy red berry flavors are underscored by zesty minerality and gain sweetness on the finish. Very fresh and elegant, especially for the price.”

Murietta’s Well Meritage, 2004 ($37.99) – Before Napa and Sonoma became famous, the Livermore Valley, which lies east of San Francisco, was the most highly esteemed California wine growing area. French immigrant Louis Mel founded a winery and named it Murrietta’s Well after the infamous, larger than life desperado Joaquin Murrieta who rustled cattle and horses from wealthy ranchers during the Gold Rush era. Lore has it that he and his men often stopped to water their horses at an artesian well. Mel bought land surrounding the well and built a gravity-flow winery into the hillside. Through his wife’s childhood connections with the Marquis de Lur-Saluces, he imported cuttings of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon from the famous Chateau d’Yquem  and red Bordeaux cuttings from the commune of Margaux.

Mel retired in the early 1930s and sold the winery to his neighbor Ernest Wente. In 1990, Ernest's grandson Philip Wente teamed up with winemaker Sergio Traverso (of neighboring Concannon Vineyard) to restore this unique winery. They created “old world” field blends from the original plantings that thrived in the gravel soils of the estate. Since then they have also planted a number of Spanish and Portuguese varieties. The Meritage is a Bordeaux-style blend of 51% Cab Sauvignon, 21% Merlot, 18% Petite Verdot, and 10% Cab Franc. Each varietal is aged separately for a few months in a mix of new and old small French, American, and Hungarian oak barrels. After blending the wine is additionally aged for 15 months in French oak barrels. Cassis, plum, and blackberry flavors are impressively deep and lengthy. 

Sec. 4.36  Alcoholic content.

   (a) Alcoholic content shall be stated in the case of wines containing more than 14 percent of alcohol by volume, and, in the case of wine containing 14 percent or less of alcohol by volume, either the type designation “table” wine (“light” wine) or the alcoholic content shall be stated. Any statement of alcoholic content shall be made as prescribed in paragraph (b) of this section.

    (b) Alcoholic content shall be stated in terms of percentage of alcohol by volume, and not otherwise, as provided in either paragraph (b)(1) or (2) of this section:

    (1) “Alcohol % by volume,” or similar appropriate phrase; Provided, that if the word “alcohol” and/or “volume” are abbreviated, they shall be shown as “alc.” (alc) and/or “vol.”(vol), respectively. Except as provided in paragraph (c) of this section, a tolerance of 1 percent, in the case of wines containing more than 14 percent of alcohol by volume, and of 1.5 percent, in the case of wines containing 14 percent or less of alcohol by volume, will be permitted either above or below the stated percentage.

    (2) “Alcohol ____ % to ____ % by volume,” or similar appropriate phrase; Provided, that if the word “alcohol” and/or “volume” are abbreviated, they shall be shown as “alc.” (alc) and/or “vol.” (vol), respectively. Except as provided in paragraph (c) of this section, a range of not more than 2 percent, in the case of wines containing more than 14 percent of alcohol by volume, and of not more than 3 percent, in the case of wines containing 14 percent or less of alcohol by volume, will be permitted between the minimum and maximum percentages stated, and no tolerances will be permitted either below such minimum or above such maximum.

    (c) Regardless of the type of statement used and regardless of tolerances normally permitted in direct statements and ranges normally permitted in maximum and minimum statements, alcoholic content statements, whether required or optional, shall definitely and correctly indicate the class, type and taxable grade of the wine so labeled and nothing in this section shall be construed as authorizing the appearance upon the labels of any wine of an alcoholic content statement in terms of maximum and minimum percentages which overlaps a prescribed limitation on the alcoholic content of any class, type, or taxable grade of wine, or a direct statement of alcoholic content which indicates that the alcoholic content of the wine is within such a limitation when in fact it is not.

 

[T.D. 6521, 25 FR 13835, Dec. 29, 1960, as amended by T.D. ATF-275, 53 FR 27046, July 18, 1988]

What's Sort of New?


E-Mail: beekman@conversent.net

Website Design ©Maron Marketing Consultants, Inc.