Javier Asensia Crianza, Navarra, 2000 ($13.99) - Spain is producing amazing wines at fabulous prices. Adjacent to and east of Rioja, Navarra is much less developed and is a region to watch. This blend of 50% Cab. Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, and only 20% Tempranillo is a sort of “SuperNavarra.” Deep in color. this is a big wine with lovely aromatics. Although it spent a year in oak, the wood barely shows. It is a superb value with rich, plummy, and ripe flavors.

Buil & Giné 'Giné Giné,' Priorat, 2002 ($15.99) - What an interesting wine! The name is odd, but this medium-bodied wine has a delightful refreshing and spicy quality to it. Mouthwateringly good!

Castano Solanera, 2002 ($16.99) - Yecla is one of numerous districts in Spain that have burst on the international wine scene with surprisingly good wines at modest prices. Parker 90: “A formidably endowed, chunky, rich, chocolatey, melted licorice, blackberry, and black currant-scented wine. Loads of texture and a luscious mid-palate revealing scorched earth and black fruits. A sizable effort with extremely ripe tannin, something only old vine, late harvested Mourvèdre can achieve. Exuberant and flamboyant!”

Bodegas Ondarre Rioja Reserva, 2001 ($17.99) – The 1998 version of this exceptional wine was a gold medal winner at the 2002 International Wine & Spirit Competition, and the 2001 is actually better!  Traditionally made Riojas such as this are becoming rare as the race seems to be on to make bigger, more intense, earlier drinking, and less oaked wines. But with extended barrel and some bottle aging, the best Riojas such as this one develop a soft, velvety, oaky patina. At the same time, because Rioja is one of the cooler parts of Spain, they retain good acidity. This beautiful blend of 75% Tempranillo, 15% Manzuelo, and 10% Garnacha is a great value. Serve it with turkey, chicken, pork, or veal.   

Las Rocas Garnacha VV, 2005 ($19.99) - Here is the newest release of this wonderful Spanish wine. The price is a little higher due to the weak dollar, but this is still an excellent value. Parker 91: “The 2005 Las Rocas Vinyas Viejas comes from high altitude, low yielding, 100+ year-old Grenache vines, and is aged in French and American oak. More aromatic than its sibling, it has a splendid perfume of spice box, lavender, kirsch, and blueberry. It is also a bit richer and longer in the finish. While it may evolve for 1-2 years, who could resist it now?” Josh Reynolds, writing for Stephen Tanzer’s IWC: “Dark ruby. Intensely aromatic nose offers vibrant raspberry and kirsch complemented by suave mocha, licorice, and spicy minerality. Sexy cherry-cola and dark berry flavors are impressive for their purity and impact, offering far more character than one usually finds at this price. The sweet red fruit finishing flavors show impressive lift and persistence. While writing this article, I drank a bottle of the 2001, and it was holding on nicely, showing suave flavors of dried red fruits, cassis, and smoked meat.” Garnacha is the Spanish name for Grenache, the varietal that forms the backbone of Chateauneuf-du-Pape and most other southern Rhône reds.  

Bodegas Y Vinedos Maurodos “Prima,” Toro (Spain), 2004 & 2005 ($20.99) - This obscure part of Spain produces some superb wines. Prima is a big, highly extracted wine that is soft, spicy, and very appealing. Robert Parker 90: “The 2004 Prima is 100% Tinto Fino (Tempranillo) aged 11 months in French and American oak and bottled unfiltered. It reveals notes of cedar, pencil lead, black currant, and blackberry liqueur. Medium to full-bodied, the wine’s personality is fruit-filled and flavorful. It has fine depth and concentration, and the tannin is ripe. This strong effort will evolve for 2-4 years and drink well through 2017. It is an outstanding value.”

Falset Márça Old Vines, 2003 ($19.99) - Certain wines make you step back and say, “Wow!” This is one of them. From the hills of Montsant, Spain, which is very close to Priorat, this big, delicious blend of 85% Garnacha (Grenache) and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon is fabulous and a real value. The grapes were grown on a vineyard with an 11% slope, which is difficult for the workers, but great for the quality of the wine. The excellent drainage and very poor soil ensures low yields. Jordi Alonso was the winemaker for this 1200-case cuvée. Stephen Tanzer 90: “Inky ruby. Deep, powerful, and exotic on the nose, with intense cola, licorice, cherry liqueur, and oak spice aromas; this smells like a serious, big-bucks wine. Suave, silky, and lush, the cherry and dark berry flavors show great intensity and sweetness and are given focus and support by fine-grained tannins. Pliant and sweet through the strikingly pure, bright, long finish. A superb bargain.”

Ochoa Reserva, Navarra, 1998 ($19.99) - This blend of 70% Tempranillo and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon is the big brother of our featured wine this month. Aged two years in American oak barrels, it was then aged in bottle for an additional two years before its release. The blend works very well with neither varietal dominating. This medium-flavored, serious wine is drinking beautifully now, but it will continue to develop. Another excellent Spanish wine!

Casajús Tinto, Ribera del Duero, 2003 ($19.99) - A blockbuster that couldn’t be more different than the Ochoa Reserva. Made from 100% Tempranillo, it is quite aromatic with intense color and fruit. This tiny winery (less square footage than Beekmans) has exactly one employee - the owner! José Alberto Calvo Casajús joined the family bodega after finishing school but decided to build his own bodega in 1993. He makes only 350 cases from vines planted in 1920! The old vines, planted in weak sand and clay soil, produce yields so ridiculously low that the fruit of six vines is required for each bottle!!! Aged for three months in both French and American oak, it needs a little time to soften the slightly tannic finish, but it’s darn impressive now.

El Coto Rioja Reserva "Coto de Imaz," 2001 ($22.99) - We’ve carried the El Coto Rioja Crianza since it was our Wine of the Month in 2005, but this is the first time we’ve carried the Reserva. Made from selected Tempranillo grapes from El Coto’s vineyard in Rioja Alta (the Crianza also uses grapes purchased from growers in Rioja Alavesa). It was given a long maceration with the skins and after which it was aged 18 months in American oak barrels. It was further aged for 24 months in the bottle before release. This is just a beautiful example of a traditional Rioja. Soft, oaky, elegant, and very refined, it is a supple, pleasurable, medium-flavored wine. El Coto was founded in 1970 and has grown dramatically since then. The Reserva is named for the estate surrounding the medieval fortress pictured on the label. Monks cultivated vineyards surrounding the Fortress of Imaz as early as the 16^th century.

Martinez La Orbe Rioja, 2002 ($22.99) - This is the replacement for the stunning 2001 vintage. From a clearly more challenging vintage, it none-the-less is a very successful wine with plenty of flavor and finesse. Parker 87: “The 2002 La Orbe spends 12 months in French and American oak, exhibits leathery, spicy, graphite characteristics along with sweet cherry and black cherry fruit infused with toasty vanilla. It is best consumed 2005-08”

Condada de Haza, Ribera del Duero, 2002 ($22.99) - This is a terrific replacement for the 1995 and 1996 vintages. This is a new property of Alejandro Fernandez, the owner of Pesquera. Rich, chocolatey and moderately oaked this is good stuff! Delicious now, but seems to have the stuffing to last a few years. Recent vintages have all received Wine Spectator 92!! ratings.

Los 800, 2003 ($24.99) - Here is another Spanish wine that offers tremendous value. Compare this to a $40 California Cabernet! The name of this Priorat wine derives from the fact that all the vines are planted at an altitude of at least 800 meters. Aged for six months in a combination of French and American oak, this blend of 50% Grenache, 30% Carignane, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 10% Syrah is not a huge wine. But there is good depth of fruit, the balance is superb, and it components are beautifully integrated. Stephen Tanzer: 90 “Bright red. Fresh raspberries and candied cherry on the nose plus a jolt of minerals adding energy. Crisp, nervy red berry flavors are underscored by zesty minerality and gain sweetness on the finish. Very fresh and elegant, especially for the price.”

López de Heredia Viña Bosconia Rioja Reserva, 1996 ($32.99) - This is one of the wineries I visited on my trip to Spain in 2003. Little about López de Heredia has changed in the 125 years since its founding. The family adheres to the tradition begun in the 1880’s - to make wine only from their own vineyards, using natural yeasts, long aging in wood, and no filtration at bottling. Most of its competitors are now owned by outside investors, but López de Heredia is owned and operated by the family who founded it. The bodega is now in the capable hands of the family’s youngest generation, Maria José, Mercedes, and Julio Cèsar.
        López de Heredia’s greatest wines are their two red Gran Reservas - Viña Tondonia and Viña Bosconia - aged 6 to 8 years in immaculate old barrels which mellows the fruit, allows for natural clarification, and gives the wines great complexity. Tondonia, Gravonia, and Bosconia are single-vineyard sites where López grows all its fruit. The reds are a blend of 75% Tempranillo, 15% Garnacha (Grenache), with some Manzuela and Graciano. Backbone and alcohol are provided by Tempranillo and Garnacha, respectively. The acidity and color come from the Graciano, which is high-yielding, and Manzuela, which has a very long ripening cycle. Neither reach full maturity thus providing the acidity for which López is famous.
        Most of their wines are very expensive, so it is a pleasure to offer one that is affordably priced. Stephen Tanzer 91: “Moderately saturated medium red. Aromas of cherry syrup and charry oak. Ripe but dry with a lush, dense texture and intriguing flavors of strawberry, cherry, and minerals. A really seamless and mellow Rioja, finishing with soft tannins and lovely ripe, but firmly dry, red fruit flavors.” If you haven’t tasted traditional style Rioja - no chemicals, no pesticides, no chaptalization, no machines, only hand-harvesting, hand-racking with oak funnels, 4 barrel-makers on staff, etc., etc. - López should be at the top of your list.

Bodegas Tritium Tempranillo, Rioja, 2003 ($36.99) - Robert Parker: 91 “The delicious 2003 Tritium, 100% Tempranillo, was bottled for the importer by Vinicola de Alcanadre, a cooperative. It is medium to dark ruby in color with aromatics that just won’t quit. Spicy red and black fruits with hints of cedar and smoke are followed by an elegant, medium bodied wine with a velvety texture and intense, lingering flavors. Close your eyes and you might think you were drinking great Burgundy.” Montegrossi Chianti Classico Riserva San Marcellino, 2003 ($49.99 net) - Robert Parker: 91 “The 2003 Chianti Classico Riserva San Marcellino (100% Sangiovese) saw 18 months in small oak barrels. It represents a sweeter, fatter interpretation of Chianti Classico in super-ripe dark fruit, chocolate, and toasted oak nuances, with excellent length and fine overall balance. It should drink well for another decade and will show its best if opened a few hours prior to serving. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2017.”

San Vicente, Rioja, 1999 ($37.99) -  One of Rioja’s perennial winners, San Vicente makes wines that are Pomerol-like, but with more intensity. It is made from 100% Tempranillo, spends 20 months in new American and French oak, and is bottled unfiltered. This 1999 is developing nicely, but it’s already plump and seductive. Parker 92: “The dense, hedonistic, jammy 1999 boasts loads of fruit and glycerin, as well as additional ripeness, volume, fat, and depth. Displaying the same black currant, jammy cherry fruit, and copious toasty new oak characteristics, it will provide enjoyment during its first decade of life.” I would age this another year or two.

Coma D’en Pou, 1999 ($45.99) - From the Terralta appellation in Catalonia, this is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Garnacha (Grenache). Deeply concentrated with complex flavors, it is accessible, but will improve with several years of aging.

TRADITIONAL RIOJAS - These may be dinosaur, but they are outstanding, world-class wines!
Lopez de Heredia Rioja Viña Tondonia Gran Reserva, 1985 ($72.50) - This new release is one of the wines my wife and I tasted at the winery. Traditional style, very classy and refined. Stephen Tanzer 94 “Juicy, pungent, precise, and minerally; a Chambolle [Chambolle-Musigny is one of the fine villages in the Cotes de Nuits region of Burgundy.] style of Rioja.”
Lopez de Heredia Rioja Viña Tondonia Gran Reserva, 1976 ($99.99) -  Wine Spectator 93 “Generous, lively, and complex. This round red is still rich with fruit flavors of black cherry and plum enhanced by cigar box, sandalwood, and mineral notes that echo on the long, complex finish. Balanced, firm, and fresh. Drink now through 2010.”
Lopez de Heredia Rioja Viña  Basconia Gran Reserva 1976 ($109.95) - Stephen Tanzer 96! Wine Spectator 91 “Alluring aromas of cigar box, autumn leaves, smoke, and spice follow through on the elegant, supple palate joined by dried cherry and berry flavors that are still lively and fresh and mingle on the long finish. Drink now through 2008.”

Additional older vintages and rarities can be found at our Oldies But Goodies page.

Ladera Sagrada Papa, 2005 ($14.99) - Spanish Albariños have received some acceptance, but who has ever heard of a grape called Godello? The Ladera Sagrada winery (est. 1920), in the Valdorras region of northwestern Spain, is owned by Jose Sotos. Although this is one of the coolest parts of Spain, the proximity to the Atlantic Ocean moderates the temperature and provides for a longer ripening period resulting in more aromatic and fresher wines. A 15% slope and a nutrient-poor topsoil and subsoil (slate stone, granite, and thin clay) produce one-third the yield of most Spanish wines. The resulting wine is unique and unoaked with great flavor intensity and aromatic expression. Delicious now, it has a reputation for improvement with age.

Burgáns Albariño, Rias Baixas (Spain), 2004 ($14.99) - This second label of Martin Codax is stunning. Harvested 10 days after most Albariños, it shows more ripeness of fruit, a wonderfully floral bouquet, and remarkable balance between its fruit, body, and acidity. A touch of carbon dioxide gives it a lively, crisp finish. One of our best $15 white wines.

Nessa Albariño, Rias Baixas, 2005 ($15.99) - If you haven’t discovered the charms of the Spanish Albariño grape, or if you just want to try a different wine, here is a great opportunity. The soft, almost fat texture as well as a bouquet and flavors that are reminiscent of both Sauvignon Blanc and dry Riesling, make this wine enormously pleasing. Rias Baixas lies in Galicia. This northwest section of Spain is on the Atlantic Ocean, and the damp climate can be problematical for grapes tend to rot with continual exposure to high humidity. Modern Albariño is grown on a unique trellising system that allows maximum air circulation and minimizes rot.

Torres de Ermello Albariño, 2004 ($15.99) - We have finally found a replacement for the delicious Dona Rosa Albariño that is no longer available. Like other topnotch Spanish Albariños, this has a wonderful texture, cleansing acidity, and no oak to interfere with its bright and fresh fruit. It is the perfect accompaniment to sea food.

Nosis, Buil & Giné, Rueda (Spain), 2003 ($16.99) - Rueda, Rias Baixas, and Rioja are the sources of Spain’s best white wines. This beauty was made from 50- to 100-year old Verdejo vines on a terraced vineyard overlooking the Duero River. Large, old oak aging rounded the texture but imparted no oak flavor. The wine has a seemingly contradictory combination of soft texture and crispness. Like the Burgáns Albariño, it was finished with a refreshing hint of CO2.

Terras Gauda Albariño “O Rosal,” Rias Baixas, 2005 ($19.99) - This is one of Spain’s best Albariños. It was a best seller for us, but following a dispute between the winery and the importer, the wine has been unavailable here for nearly five years. Now it’s back, and it must be tasted to be believed. Rich, rounded, and almost oily in texture, classy in its sense of proportion and balance, and complex in flavor from beginning to end, this unique wine was worth the wait.

R. Lopez de Heredia Blanco Gran Reserva, 1987 ($37.99) - Speaking of challenges, this Rioja winery, pronounced LOW-payth day (h)ay-RAY-dee-ah, was one of the highlights of my recent trip to Spain. It is an extremely traditional winery, one of the last in Rioja to use only wood for fermentation and aging. The only stainless steel in the entire winery is on the inside of some of the spigots, and that is only because it is mandated by law. Lopez is a dinosaur and proud of it. This family-owned property is on its way to being run by a totally committed third generation. Two sisters do the wine-making and oversee the winery operation; their brother does the marketing. Our tour was given by one of the sisters. Only 2 Rioja wineries still make white wines in the traditional manner. Lopez ages theirs in oak barrels for as long as they age their reds, 6-7 years! They are then aged in bottle an additional 6 years. Yes, folks, 1987 is their current release! This is a wine unlike any you may have tried. No fresh, fruity, bright, short-lived wine here. Instead, it is mature, complex, and crisply acidic. It will continue to age well. Of all the wines we tasted at Lopez, this is the one Judie and I kept going back to. Unique, food-friendly, and fascinating!