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Austria
 Weingut & Gastehaus Berger Grüner Veltliner, 2008 ($12.99/Liter) - This is a delightful, dry wine from the Kamptal Kremstal region of Austria. It is light in body, but the pretty fragrance is accompanied by delicate flavors of white pepper, lovage, and sorrel. In a New York Times column titled “Best White Whites Under $10” (do the math, and this wine comes to $9.74/750 ml), Eric Asimov wrote, “3 Stars! Fresh and expressive, with citrus, floral, and mineral flavors that linger in the mouth. It practically invites you to have a second glass.” Cultured yeasts are used for a slow fermentation in temperature-controlled stainless steel vats. E. & M. Berger have 37 acres of vineyards on several different soil types. In addition to Grüner (the Austrians hate that abbreviation), they grow Riesling, Welschriesling, Zweigelt, and other varietals.  

Domäne Wachau Grüner Veltliner "Wachau," 2009 ($14.99) - Grüners tend to be terrific values, but this is one of the best! It shows beautifully clean fruit reminiscent of white pepper and grapefruit with surprisingly good texture and balance at this price. There are several reasons why this wine is so good. The grapes come from the Wachau region of Austria, which is known for its superior wines. The vineyards are found on steep terraces reinforced by old, dry stone walls and are part of a World Cultural Heritage. Domäne Wachau is a large cooperative (by Austrian standards). With 30% of the Wachau's entire vineyard area, it has economies of scale that allow it to produce great quality at a surprisingly modest price. The "Wachau" cuvée is the entry-level wine. Single vineyard wines from the steepest slopes are also produced.

Thierry-Weber Grüner Veltliner “Animo,” Kremstal, 2007 ($16.99) - Customer acceptance of the Grüner Veltliners that we have discovered has been very gratifying. This new one is just terrific. Like the others we carry, it is light, delicate, very clean, and crisp with a slightly peppery finish. What sets it apart is the near-perfect balance of its acid and fruit as well as the harmony of its elements. Surprisingly high quality for the price, it won first place in the “Best Atlantic Oyster Match” at the Grand Central Oyster Wine Challenge in 2007. Grüner Veltliner is the most widely planted varietal in Austria, but it is also grown in Hungary, the Czech Republic, Slovakia, and Slovenia. From the valley floor in the Kremstal district, these grapes grow in the typical “loss” soil (a sand-like sediment brought to the region by wind almost a million years ago). The hand-picked grapes were fermented in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks, and the wine was left on the lees until bottling in late January to add complexity. 

Leo Hillinger Small Hill Red, 2004 ($17.99) - Only a few sections of Austria are warm enough to ripen some red varietals. This unusual wine is a blend of 50% Merlot, 25% Pinot Noir, and 25% St. Laurent (a cousin of Pinot Noir). The aromatics are quite attractive, and the flavors are reminiscent of Pinot Noir with a slight gamy character. The overall effect is refinement in a medium-weight style. This works beautifully with pork chops, chicken, and fish.

Graf Hardegg [Dry] Riesling, 2007 ($19.99) - You are probably familiar with the delicious Grüner Veltliners from Austria, but many other varietals are grown there. Riesling is one of the best. There are many styles, but they typically have nothing to do with the German style; most of them are not sweet! This one is a gorgeous example at a great price. I recently tasted some that are very expensive but not much better than this. It's close to Alsatian in style, but that doesn't quite capture it. It is unique, captivating, complex, and dry without being austere.

Machherndl Pinot Blanc, Hochrain Vineyard Old Vines, 2004 ($19.99) - Sometimes it seems that Austria is trying to corner the market on unpronounceable names. The wines of Austria may sound odd to us, but they are worth investigating. Pinot Blanc, like Pinot Gris, is a mutation of Pinot Noir. It is most closely associated with France’s Alsace district, but it is also grown in California, Oregon, and Germany (where it is called Weissburgunder). From the Wachau district of Austria, this lovely wine has a soft texture, a leesy character, and just the right amount of acidity to bind its elements and make it refreshing.

Thiery-Weber Grüner Veltliner "Optimum," 2006 (Was $24.99; now $19.99) - You may have tried the delicious Grüner "Animo" from Thierry-Weber. This "reserve" wine is made from the oldest vines (almost 30 years) from a single vineyard in the Weinzierlberg subdistrict in Krems. Very low yield (20 hl/ha), hand-selected grapes are fermented in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks and left on the lees for additional complexity until bottling in April. This is the best Grüner Veltliner we have ever carried. It was a gold medal winner at the International Wine Challenge - Vienna. Thiery-Weber has been family-owned since 1885.

Summerer Grüner Veltliner, Steinhaus, 2007 ($21.99) - The best Grüner Veltliners are ethereal whites that are subtle and never hit you over the head with flavor, but if you pay attention, the beautiful and satisfying flavors reveal themselves. Summerer makes one of the best Austrian Grüners, exceeded only by a few producers who price their wines in the stratosphere. Apparently 2006 was an excellent vintage in Austria, and this superior producer really excelled that year. A medium-bodied wine, it is beautifully balanced and very refined. This is a perfect spring sipper. And dig that glass stopper. The Summerer estate is located in Langenlois, the heart of the Kamptal, a bowl like valley with vineyards surrounding the town on all sides. Rupert and Elizabeth Summerer continue a tradition at this estate that dates back to 1679 yet this property is anything but traditional. These wines are energetic, snappy, and ripe with modest alcohol (12.5%), fresh clean flavors, and distinctive minerality. Austria is one of the most dynamic regions in the wine world today with are distinctive, honest, and have and a sense of place. They are also great with light food such as salads, chicken, and fish.  

Canada
Cave Spring (www.cavespringcellars.com) is a modern winery that sits on the Niagara Peninsula of southern Ontario. The vast majority of Canada is too cold to grow quality wine grapes; however, the Niagara Peninsula, which lies between Lakes Erie and Ontario, offers a more moderate microclimate that is conducive to growing late-ripening varietals such as Riesling, Chardonnay, and Pinot Noir. Leonard Pennachetti grew up among his grandfather’s mediocre labrusca vines. Studying the geography of the area, he realized that the Niagara Escarpment’s protected environment might be conducive to finer grape varietals. He convinced his father to buy the historic Cave Spring Farm because of its hillside location and its proximity to Lake Ontario. Along with winemaker Angelo Pavan, Len has been making wine since 1986.

Cave Spring Riesling Reserve, 2003 ($12.99) - This estate-bottled wine (from 22-year old vines) is similar to a German Kabinet. Although light in body, the aromatics are intense. It’s not as sweet as the Semi-Dry, but it is more complex, with some of the steely characteristics of a Rheingau. Flawless.

Cave Spring Late Harvest Riesling “Indian Summer,” 2003 ($19.99/375 ml) - This Auslese-style wine is from 2 different Niagara properties and is made from partially frozen grapes . Clearly a dessert wine, it has distinct sweetness, but again the acid is in good balance. It has an appealing uniqueness.

Cave Spring CSV Chardonnay, 2000 ($19.99) - Made from Niagara’s oldest Chardonnay vines (23-27 years old), this wine was aged in new and used French oak. It is stylistically close to Burgundy. Medium bodied, it doesn’t show the lushness of hyper-ripe California fruit. Instead there is good acidity, and the oak is nicely integrated. Very worthy.

Germany
 Pannotia Vineyards Riesling, 2008 (originally $14.99; now $9.99) - Pannotia was an interesting idea that seems to have failed; hence the close-out price. A company in South Carolina sourced wines from around the world under name "Pannotia," which refers to the earth's original and single continent. This Riesling comes from the Rheinhessen, Germany. Its style is a cross between Germanic and Alsatian with higher alcohol than is typical in Germany but slightly more sweetness than is usually found in Alsace. You'll be a very pleasantly surprised.

Burg Ravensburg Castle Hill Dry Riesling, Baden, 2006 ($9.99) - My  high school and college German is quite rusty, so I used Babbel Fish to translate Burg Ravensburg's web site. The first sentence was  translated as, "For over 750 years the sex of the barons Göler von Ravensburg is closely connected with the viticulture." Whatever the lurid history of the barons may be, documents show that in 1251 a vineyard near Heidelberg was sold by the knight Berthold Göler von Ravensburg. The old castle, which can be toured, lies imposingly at the top of a hill with the vineyards just below. Burg Ravensburg is a member of the VDP, an association of leading wine estates, and carries its stylized eagle on the capsule. The wine is dry with just a hint of sweetness on entry. It is perfect with Asian cuisine, picnics, salads, etc.

Fritz Windisch Niersteiner Spiegelberg Kabinet, 2008 ($10.98), Piesporter Goldtröpchen Spätlese, 2007 ($13.98), and Alsheimer Fruhmesse Auslese, 2006 ($16.98) - The shipper, Fritz Windisch, markets wines from many of Germany’s wine producing regions. The quality here is neither top nor bottom; these are solid, well-priced wines that show the quality and style of traditional German Rieslings at attractive price points. The Kabinet is the driest, but it shows a hint of sweetness to compliment the youthful acidity. The Spätlese has just a bit more fruit and sweetness, but it is still nicely balanced. Both these wines pair well with Asian and Mexican cuisine. The Auslese is a bit sweet for most meals, but it is a very tasty wine. The name may seem like an unfortunate choice, but in fact the town of Alsheim preceded Dr. Alzheimer by many centuries. In fact a charming feature of this small but important wine-producing village in Rheinhessen is its network of sunken lanes, paths carved into the land by centuries of human activity, wearing the land down. They are still used today for hiking and walkin

TJ Riesling, Selbach, 2006 ($12.99) - German Q.B.A. wines such as this are allowed to be sweetened, but 2003 was such a warm, sunny year that the grapes got unusually ripe, and this wine required no sweetening. The result is a barely off-dry wine (more like a kabinett) that is crisp, flavorful, light, and delightful with Asian food or alone as an apèritif.

St.-Urbans-Hof Riesling QBA 2007 ($14.99) - I'm never impressed by the Wine Spectator's yearly attempt to list the top 100 wines, but it certainly helps to sell those wines. So here goes: 90 points. "Needs a little air to reveal its floral, apricot, and slate aromas and flavors. Beautifully integrated, with a lingering, stony, savory finish. Drink now through 2018." It's actually a lovely wine. As is true with the better German wines, it shows a fine balance between fruity sweetness and acidity. This is a refreshing wine for sushi and other Asian cuisine.

Haart Piesporter Goldtröpchen Riesling Kab., 2003 ($14.99) - The unusual 2003 vintage created Kabinetts that taste more like Spätleses. With good body, delicious fruit, solid sweetness, and relatively low (but adequate) acidity, it is a German wine to drink over the near term.

Joh. Baptiste Schaefer Dorsheimer Goldloch Riesling Spätlese, 2004 ($19.99) - Previously $26.99 and worth that price, this gorgeous German wine was closed out by the distributor to make room for newer vintages. Good German wines age beautifully, and this one is just hitting its stride. It is complex, balanced, and sweet but with good acidity. The finish lingers. A stunning introduction to high quality Riesling. Limited!

Schäfer-Fröhlich Estate Riesling Medium-Dry, 2008 ($19.99) and Estate (Bockenauer Felseneck) Riesling Trocken (Dry), 2008 ($29.99) - German wines should be more appreciated. Quality is generally high, they pair extremely well with a wide range of food, and alcohol levels are low to moderate. Joel B. Payne, writing in Tanzer's IWC, raved about these wines from the Nahe district: "Tim Fröhlich has been a rising talent in Germany, but seldom has his star shown as brightly as it did in 2008. I marked 13 of 22 wines with 90 points or higher, and I named him winemaker of the year. If you want to know what great German Riesling can taste like, buy some of these 2008s." The trocken is the driest of these wines. Wine Spectator: 90 "Hints of orange, grapefruit, apple, and smoky mineral aromas and flavors mark this lithe, dense white, which starts out fruity and finishes dry. A mineral accent lingers on the mouthwatering aftertaste. Best from 2012 through 2018." The Estate Medium Dry also received a 90-point rating: "Juicy and fresh, with vivid apricot, peach, and mineral aromas and flavors. This is harmonious and graceful, staying defined and resonant on the long finish. Drink now through 2018." 

Robert Weil Estate Dry Riesling, Rheingau, 2004 ($23.99) - Weingut Robert Weil has been called “the Lafite Rothschild of Germany.” Their top wines are some of the most expensive in the world. Weil’s 2004s have not yet been reviewed, but this is a delicious, impeccably made wine with great character. Serve it with sushi, spicy chicken, or just about any seafood. The following are Parker quotes on Weil’s previous entry-level Rieslings. “Outstanding.... Remains an excellent value... Explodes from the glass with aromatic richness. Meaty stones, minerals, melon, flowers, and sweet citrus fruits can be found in its scents. A wine of enormous depth, its lavish personality coats the palate with spiced earth, minerals, and juicy white fruits... satin-textured, marvelously pure, filled with zesty lemon, mineral, & tangy lime.”

Markus Molitor Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett, 2007 ($20.99), Riesling Spätlese, 2007 ($23.99), and Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese, 2007 ($29.99) - Inheriting the family estate in 1984 at the tender age of twenty, Markus Molitor both expanded the holdings and increased the quality of these artisanal wines. Pinpoint focus and incredible balance and finesse set them apart from most Mosel wines. All three of these wines received Wine Spectator and Robert Parker ratings between 90 and 92 with comments such as "voluptuous," "a beauty," "balanced and creamy," "silky," and "lip-smacking finish." Limited.

Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese, Dr. Loosen, Mosel, 2006 ($29.99) - A classic nose is followed by delicious Riesling fruit, surprising sweetness, and good acid balance. This wine shows the ripeness of the vintage. Wine Enthusiast: 90 “Dense and creamy, this offers peach, vanilla custard, and mineral aromas and flavors matched to a firm structure and a lingering aftertaste. Best from 2006 through 2015.”

Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spätlese, J.J. Prüm, Mosel, 2006 ($34.99) - The famous Prüm charges a lot for their wines, but they consistently deliver. A delicious, classically structured wine.

Erdener Prälat Riesling Auslese, Dr. Loosen, Mosel, 2002 ($33.99/375 ml) - Luscious! Close to a Beerenauslese in style.

Hungary
Pajzos Antaloczy Furmint, Tokaji-Hungary, 2008 ($12.99) - On a trip to central Europe three years ago, I spent an afternoon at an "enoteca" in Budapest, Hungary, tasting through forty Hungarian wines. The reds were uniformly disappointing, but many of the whites were surprisingly good. This is the first Hungarian wine to grace our newsletter. Modern and clean with pleasing flavors of peach, pear, and lime, as well as good acidity, this is a lovely wine for kicking back on a warm day with or without food. While the exact origin of Furmint is unclear, it is thought to have been brought to Hungary in the 13th century during the reign of King Béla IV. After a Mongolian invasion, Béla wanted to quickly revive the country's devastated vineyards. He instituted policies encouraging mass immigration of people knowledgeable in viticulture and winemaking. Many of the ensuing immigrants brought new grape varieties with them, one of which was likely Furmint. The principal grape of the highly respected dessert wine Tokaji-Aszu, Furmint is also capable of producing delightful dry wines. DNA profiling at the University of Zagreb has shown Furmint to be a parent of the lowly Gouais Blanc, which is notable only because Gouais Blanc has been shown to be a parent of Chardonnay!

Israel
 Dalton Canaan Red, 2000 ($15.99) - Like its Chardonnay counterpart, this is an impeccably made kosher wine from Israel. This blend of Cabernet, Merlot, and Syrah is a vast improvement over previous editions with more and brighter fruit and, surprisingly, more structure.

Dalton Unoaked Chardonnay, 2002 ($15.99) - Dalton is an Israeli winery that is making some very nice wines. Kosher wines were once associated with poor quality, but today Yarden and Dalton in Israel as well as Baron Herzog and others in California, make kosher wines that are the equal in quality of others in their price range. This unoaked Chardonnay is crisp with nice varietal character. It’s a fine alternative to the heavy-handed, oaky style.

Noah Tevel Cabernet, 2002 and Merlot, 2002 ($15.99) - These are surprisingly good kosher wines from Israel that have deep color and flavor, a pleasing softness, and early appeal. They are mevushel (due to flash-boiling the grape juice, which is important to the ultra-orthodox).

Barkan Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, 2000 ($20.99) - If you want a richer wine with your seder, this kosher wine from Israel is just the ticket. Amazingly, it competes favorably with $20 California Cabs. It’s not a big, fruity, monster, but it’s quite good and has plenty of flavor.

Japan
High Quality Sake (Junmai) is made from one or more of three special rice varieties. The outside (protein and fat) of the grains are milled away. Only the tiny internal kernel (carbohydrate) is used. This makes for a cleaner taste, but it is more expensive as much more rice is needed. Cheap Sake is made from the cheapest rice with little if any milling. It is served heated to cover its defects. High quality Sake is served cool or chilled. It will keep several weeks after opening. The variety of rice used, where it is grown, and the fermenting techniques contribute to the differences between the best Sakes. Hakushika Junmai-Gingo Sennenja ($29.99) - Quite clean, fairly smooth, nice grainy character, hints of white chocolate. A very nice introduction to high qualite Sake; Wandering Poet ($35.99) - Slightly smoother, slightly cleaner taste, and more complexity in the nose; Moon on the Water ($41.99) - Very smooth, very fragrant, nice balance; Sacred Power ($46.99) - Alcohol shows slightly, but very smooth. The nose is quite perfumed. Rich and mellow with hints of melon and coconut; Shrine of the Village ($57.99) - Similar to the Sacred Power, but with even more finesse.

Portugal
Aliança Vinho Verde, 2007 ($7.49) - The perfect summer white wine should be clean in taste, light in body, low in alcohol, slightly effervescent, barely off-dry, and should have a clean, crisp finish. And it must be cheap! This Portuguese white wine is all of the above.

Las Lilas Vinho Verde, Portugal, 2009 ($8.49) - It’s not surprising that the sea-faring, seafood-eating country of Portugal should produce white wines that are great with shellfish. With a hint of effervescence and a relatively low alcohol level of 9.5%, this crisply dry white, made from a traditional blend of Loureiro and Trexeidura grapes, offers exotic floral aromas as well as hints of lime zest and ripe pear.  It’s an ideal beverage for sultry summer weather.

FourUVas, 2004 ($9.35) - The name refers to the four red varietals that comprise this wine. If you haven't tried a Portuguese red, this is a wonderful introduction at a great price. More information about this former Wine of the Month may be found by clicking here.

Quinta da Cortezia Vinho Branco, 2005 ($11.99) and Vinha Conchas Special Selection, 2004 ($11.99) - These are delicious wines that serve as an excellent introduction to the wines of Portugal. The white is not mainstream, but it has a lot of character and is very well made. A former Wine of the Month, more details about it may be found by clicking here. It will pair nicely with seafood and white meats. The red, also former Wine of the Month for us, is a great value and deserves your attention. More information about it may be found by clicking here.

Luis Pato Touriga - Baga, Portugal, 2001 ($18.99) - Luis Pato is the producer. Touriga and Baga are the indigenous grape varietals that comprise this interesting wine. It doesn’t fit within the common categories of Cabernet, Merlot, Zinfandel, etc. It does fit within the category of “delicious.” This is a big, meaty, zesty wine that will stand up to beef. It’s something different. This cuvée is in the middle of the range of excellent wines made by Luis Pato.

South Africa
Rietvallei Sauvignon Blanc, 2006 ($9.99) - South Africa is not only the source for excellent red wines, but it also produces some wonderful Sauvignon Blancs. Neil Ellis is one of our best under $20, but at the everyday $10 mark, Rietvallei from the Robertson district is better than one could hope for. Made in the grapefruity New Zealand style, it has a little more finesse and slightly better acid balance than most. It has a vibrant core of crisp, flinty, and mineral notes.

Allesverloren Shiraz, 2005 ($11.99) - This is a wonderful value. Situated on the southeastern slopes of the Kasteelberg Mountain near Riebeeck West, Allesverloren is the oldest wine estate in the Swartland Wine of Origin district which lies 65 miles NNE of Capetown and only 35 miles from the Atlantic Ocean. The farm dates to circa 1696 when the governor of the Cape left it to a widow named Cloete. This courageous woman was one of the first settlers in the then backward Swartland region. To purchase tools or even attend church, the settlers had to undertake a long and arduous wagon journey along primitive roads to Stellenbosch. On their return from one such journey in 1704, the settlers found their house burned to the ground and the farm destroyed. Hence the estate’s sad name. “Allesverloren” means “all is lost” in Dutch (and not coincidentally in German).
    All was not lost. The farm was restored and expanded, and by 1806 Allesverloren’s owners had harvested the estate’s first grapes. Daniel Francois Malan acquired Allesverloren in 1872, and it has remained in the Malan family for five generations. The present owner is Fanie Malan. Her winemaker son Danie won the Diners Club Winemaker of the Year award for his 1996 Shiraz.
    The grapes for this wine were sourced from trellised, south-facing vineyards planted in shale 60 to 300 meters above sea level. The low-yielding vines were planted in 1969. Each block of hand-harvested grapes was vinified separately. The grapes were fermented on the skins in open tanks at 25° C for five to seven days and left on the lees for four months to impart intensity of color and flavor as well as to ensure sufficient structure for aging. After malolactic fermentation, the wine was aged in a combination of new, but mainly second and third-fill French oak and a few new American oak barrels. The result is a smoky-scented wine with good fruit concentration, some aging potential, and surprising quality for the price. The flavor profile features ripe plums and berries. 

Neil Ellis Sauvignon Blanc, 2006 ($17.99) - South Africa produces numerous wines of surprisingly high quality, but it is taking time for Americans to discover them. With the exception of a few Sancerres, this is the best Sauvignon Blanc we have under $20. Classy, elegant, lively, and beautifully balanced, it shows little of the aggressive grapefruit/grassy characteristics so common in Sauvignon today.

Diemersdal Shiraz, South Africa, 2002 ($15.99) - South Africa continues to rebuild its wine reputation. This big Shiraz is very distinctive in style with dark chocolate, ash, and tobacco notes. The flavor profile is not mainstream, but this is a very impressive wine. Diemersdal also makes a very attractive Sauvignon Blanc.

Rustenberg “John X. Merriman,” 2002 ($27.99) - Even older than Mulderbosch, the Rustenberg farm in Stellenbosch, South Africa dates to 1682! Peter and Pamela Barlow bought Rustenberg in 1941. Their son Simon took over in 1987. This estate is one of South Africa’s jewels. Stephen Tanzer 88: “Sweet, oak-dominated aromas of currant, licorice, tar, and chocolate. Sweet, jammy, Merlot-dominated flavors of plum and chocolate. This is ripe and in-your-face. Finishes with dusty, fine tannins.”

OTHER
Recas Winery Dreambird Pinot Grigio, Colinele Dobrogei-Romania, 2009 ($7.99) - Here’s a chance to do good and save money at the same time. Competent wine is being made all over the world, and this charmer from Romania will surprise you with nicely rendered peach and apricot fruit. The very attractive label was designed by Raul Inocentiu Neculai, an 8-year old autistic Romanian boy. Part of the proceeds of Dreambird wines went to help Raul in his studies. Future proceeds will help other developmentally challenged Romanian children.

Vaeni Naoussa Xinomavro Naoussa. 2004 ($13.99) - Greek wines are getting better. They are hard to pronounce and sometimes distinctive in taste, but they are worth trying, especially with Greek cuisine. We'll be gradually increasing our selection. Wine Spectator: 90 "Rich, elegant, and spicy, with creamy overtones to the raspberry, cherry, and red plum flavors. Silky tannins and lush glazed citrus notes fill the plush finish. Drink now through 2014."  

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