Bella Costa Pinot Grigio, Venezie, 2007 ($10.99) - At first blush this wine seems to be unusual in style, but that's just because most Pinot Grigios in this price range are typically so insipid. This wine actually has some character. It's very enjoyable.

Casa alla Terra Vernaccia, 2004 ($11.99) - The Vernaccia grape has never received its due in this country. This refined Italian white wine was made from 100% Vernaccia grapes grown on the rolling hills surrounding the gorgeous fortified town of San Gimignano in Tuscany. A terrific value, it is clean and refreshing with an almond undertone and good structure. It begs for olives, nuts, bruschetta, grilled shrimp, and broiled fish.

Croce Müller-Thurgau, 2008 ($12.99) - Many customers get a kick out of our sign on Croce’s Pinot Grigio ("Joel’s wife’s favorite Pinot Grigio"). This one will clearly be her favorite Müller-Thurgau because it is the only one we carry! M-T is a grape bred by Hermann Müller from the Swiss Canton of Thurgau in 1882. Grape breeding generally reflects a desire to harness the qualities of two separate grapes, thus generating a new vine that combines the qualities of both. Müller hoped to create a grape with the intensity and complexity of Riesling, but one that ripened earlier and was more flexible with respect to climate and soil type. A partial success, M-T ripens earlier and isn’t as fussy about climate and soil, but it never reaches the quality of the best Rieslings. None-the-less it is Germany’s second most widely planted grape and is also grown in Austria, northern Italy, the Czech Republic, Australia, New Zealand, and, surprisingly, Japan and England! Recent DNA studies show that the varietal Müller crossed with Riesling, long thought to be Sylvaner, was actually Madeleine Royale, a seedling of Chasselas. Early maturing and relatively low in acid, M-T makes a fruity wine that is fresh and appealing. Croce’s version from Italy’s Alto Adige region is clean, charming, and very refreshing.

Di Majo Norante Falanghina, 2007 ($12.99) - Italy is full of local wines made from interesting indigenous grapes that are little known to the wine world at large. Falanghina from Campania has been called the “wine of Roman poets.” Although overshadowed by the newly approved DOCG status of Greco di Tufo and Fiano, Falanghina is showing its quality as it did long ago. This grape was once praised by the poets of classical Rome and graced the tables of emperors and dignitaries. Roman generals were said to have supplied this mystical juice to their conquering troops. Daniel Thomases, a wine reviewer for Robert Parker’s The Wine Advocate, says, “The 1990s have seen a startling development of the quality of Falanghina, once considered suitable for large amounts of juice and little else. The variety is indeed healthy and vigorous, but more rigor in the vineyard and lower yields have demonstrated it is capable of real aromatic interest redolent of pears and resin with an important texture and depth. Benevento is the center of better Falanghina production, and the new bottles coming onto the market are a revelation of a complexity hardly imaginable just a few years ago.” Straw yellow with hints of green, this tasty wine has generous pomegranate-like fruit and a soft texture.

ORGANIC: Perlage Pinot Grigio, Veneto, 2008 ($14.99) - I approach organic wines with a bit of skepticism. The first to market weren't always good wines, but one made allowances given that the producers were still learning how to grow quality grapes consistently without pesticides, herbicides, or artificial fertilizers. The truth is that grape vines are subject to various pests and diseases. Controlling them by natural means is not always easy, but producers are getting better at vineyard management and winery techniques. There is usually a price premium for organic wines, but some are as good as any in their price range. Brothers Ivo and Claudio Nardi have been farming organically since 1981. They own fifty acres and purchase organic grapes from 175 nearby acres allowing them to produce 100,000 cases per year. Ivo obtained his degree in Agricultural Science from the University of Florence and is the company president. Claudio, whose degree is in technical design, also took specialized wine courses and is responsible for production. The Perlage vineyards are certified organic by Codex, an international food control organization.

“Seta,” Castello di Luzzano, Emilia Romagna, 2005 ($15.99) - The Luzzano Castle has been in the family of sisters Maria Giulia and Giovanella Fugazza for nearly a century. Archeological evidence shows that vines were intensively cultivated in this region during the Roman Empire, and documents citing the excellent wines of the Luzzano property itself date to the 12th century. The beautiful castle sits atop a hill that represents the border between Lombardia and Emilia Romagna. White grapes (Malvasia) are grown in Lombardia (Colli Piacentini DOC); red grapes are in Emilia Romagna (Oltrepo’ Pavese DOC). Unfortunately, we only received a small allotment of “Seta,” their white wine. It is also terrific. If you've never tasted a high-end Malvasia before, give this one a try before we run out. 

Maso Poli Pinot Grigio, Trentino, 2008 ($18.99) - The best and most interesting Pinot Grigio we have tasted in a long time, this seductive, flavorful, creamy-textured wine comes from the same producer from which we get Torre di Luna PG. Three passes are made through the vineyard for the Maso Poli to ensure that the grapes are harvested at optimal ripeness. Forty percent of the wine is fermented and aged in mostly used French barriques and tonneaux (slightly larger barrels). The remainder is fermented in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks. All of the wine is left to age on the lees (yeast) for seven months. Displaying a hint of copper color and nuances of pear, this is a harmonious, refined, textured wine that leads me to say to buyers of Santa Margherita, "What were you thinking? For the same price (actually less), you could have bought one the the best Pinot Grigios made!" A "maso" in Trentino is a typical rural farm with a farmhouse made of stone and its adjoining land. Maso Poli is owned by the Togn family, who restructured and replanted the vineyards in the 1970s and built a new cellar in 2004.