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Tuscany (Toscano) Piedmont (Piemonte) Others Tuscany Fanti Sant' Antimo, 2007 ($14.99) - Filippo Fanti is known for his Brunello and is the president of the Consortium of Brunello di Montalcino, the organization that regulates all wine production in this zone. At an altitude of 1,200 to 1,450 feet above sea level, the 35 acres of vineyards at the Fanti-San Filippo estate are on rocky soil with layers of calcium-rich marls. Hot, sunny days are followed by notably cool nights. Fanti grows more than just Sangiovese, but a wine that use any other grapes must use the Sant' Antimo DOC which is named after a beautiful nearby church. This wine is a blend of 70% Sangiovese, 15% Merlot, 10% Syrah, and 5% Cabernet cropped to 3.2 tons per acre. It was aged in used French oak, both small and large. Jammy, soft, and generous with luscious red berry fruit, it shows classic Sangiovese character with the French varietals blending well and rounding it out. Serve with roasted or grilled meats. Tenuta Villa Trasqua "Alsole" IGT Toscano Rosso, 2006 ($17.99) - What a great value! This is the first time that Villa Trasqua wines have been imported into the United States. A producer of Chianti Classico located in Castelina in Chianti, Villa Trasqua also makes this lovely Tuscan wine composed of equal parts Sangiovese and Merlot. Made in a traditional style, it smoothes out with an hour of airing to reveal a very attractive wine with moderate fruit that is flexible with a wide range of food. Merlot does very well in Tuscany, and this blend is flavorful and very well balanced. The Tenuta Villa Trasqua outside Sienna consists of 120 hectares with 56 dedicated to vineyards and winery.
San Jacopo Chianti Classico Riserva, 2005
($17.99) - Classico
Riservas are generally over $20, but this one offers great value from
a fine vintage. A blend of 90% Sangiovese and 10% Canaiolo from the
heart of the Chianti zone, it shows good color and fruit as well as
the refinement of a Riserva's additional aging. The Tuscan wines of Casa Emma (www.casaemma.com) Il Poggione "Mazzoni," 2006 ($19.99) – One of the best values I have tasted in a long time, this SuperTuscan from the Il Poggione winery famous for its Brunellos is a stunning blend of 72% Sangiovese and 28% Merlot. This yummy, spicy, fruit-filled wine is ripe, rich, and beautifully balanced. Only 6000 cases were made. Winemaker Fabrizio Bindocci and his team at Il Poggione have done an exceptional job. Donna Olimpia Tageto, 2007 ($18.69) - This SuperTuscan is the second release of a new project from Guido Folanari. He, Gaja, and Antinori are the only ones to produce estate-bottled wine in the three most famous vineyards of Italy: Barolo, Bolgheri, and Brunello di Montalcino. This is not a big wine, but is very attractive with soft fruit and touches of oak. The Wine Spectator gave a great review to the 2006, and the 2007 is a very similiar wine. The 2006 review: 91 “Fresh, aromatic, and very pretty with currant, raspberry, and lavender. Full-bodied with silky tannins and a clean, fruity finish. Balanced and rich. A new SuperTuscan winery to watch. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. 3000 cases made.” Modern label (pretty but hard to read). Very limited. La Porta di Vertine Chianti Classico, 2006 ($24.99) & Chianti Classico Riserva, 2006 ($39.99) - Ten years from now this winery may rival Felsina, Fonterutoli, Fontodi, and Volpaia as the best of Chianti Classico. Right now it is in its infancy, a work in progress, but its potential is outstanding. The recent history of Porta di Vertine began in 2006 when Dan Lugosch, an American real estate developer with family ties to Italy, bought a house with a vineyard near Gaiole in Chianti in the secluded hamlet of Vertine. Unlike most rich newcomers to vineyard ownership, Dan chose not to hire an internationally renowned consultant wine maker. One can only conclude that the man is not primarily interested in producing a Super Tuscan to boost his ego. Passionate about Porta di Vertine in general and Sangiovese in particular, he hired enologist Giacomo Mastretta full time on this tiny estate. Mastretta, previously employed at Chapoutier in the Rhône and La Massa in Tuscany, was given total freedom to run the estate and to purchase additional vineyards. Inspired by his experience at Chapoutier, Mastretta follows strictly organic principles at La Porta di Vertine. The 2.5-hectare vineyard, baptized "Vertine," sits on top of a series of rolling hills, forming a perfect amphitheater. The steep slope is bathed in sunlight well into the evening, which is why it is referred to as "Conca d'Oro" or golden shell. In addition to the Sangiovese, the vineyard included some Cabernet, Merlot, and Alicante Bouchet, but the AB was immediately grafted over to Sangiovese. Both wines saw extended maceration (skin in contact with the fermenting wine), minimal sulfites, and aging on the lees in traditional Slovenian oak casks as well as oval Austrian casks and double barriques. The Classico contains 5% Cabernet and 5% Merlot. Future vintages will be 100% Sangiovese. It has wonderful aromatics and very good fruit. It is a far more serious wine than most non-riservas and is well worth its price. The Riserva is from the best Sangiovese barrels and is simply stunning. Harmonious and complex, this joyful expression of Sangiovese was rated five stars by Decanter Magazine ("wonderful freshness on the nose, showing spicy fruit with incense, leather, and tobacco. Tangy finish of red cherries.") and chosen as "Best of Vintage!" Go to www.laportadivertine.it for more information and pictures. Altesino Rosso di Montalcino, 2004 ($26.99) - Just as the Allegrini above can be considered a “baby Amarone,” this tasty rosso is essentially a “baby Brunello.” Although the worldwide reputation of Brunello has encouraged a certain conservatism among Montalcino estates, Altesino, owned by Elisabetta Gnudi Angelini, is an innovative leader in Tuscany. Although Atesino pioneered the technique of aging its IGT wines in small French oak barrels, this beauty is made traditionally from 100% Sangiovese Grosso hand-harvested from the Altesino and Velona vineyards. The must remains in contact with the skins for 15 days. After fermentation, the wine is aged in large Slovenian barrels for seven months. This rosso offers a brilliant ruby-red color with a persistent bouquet of ripened fruit. On the palate the wine is round and well balanced offering cherry and plum flavors, hints of leather, and a velvety finish. It has real depth of fruit and character. Try it with pasta and meat sauces, white meat, or game casseroles. Wine & Spirits: 88 “Black cherry and raspberry flavors invest this with elegant fruit, soft and mellow. Serve it with grilled quail.” Friggiali
Rosso di Montalcino, 2003 ($27.99) - With an intense ruby-red color and fine perfume
characteristics, this fruity and fragrant wine is full, ripe, and lingering with
good fruit and well-balanced tannins. It is essentially a “baby Brunello.” Fattoria di Felsina Chianti Classico Riserva,
2003 ($27.99) - Parker
91:
“The 2003 Chianti Classico Riserva is ample and warm on the palate, offering
notable intensity in its dark red cherry fruit, tobacco and herb flavors,
outstanding length, and its very finessed finish supported by an underlying note
of minerality that provides freshness as well as balance. It is a terrific
effort. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2018.”
Fattoria di Felsina Chianti Classico Riserva
“Rancia,” 2003 ($34.99) - Parker
93:
“Fel-sina’s single-vineyard 2003 Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia presents
more overt toasted oak notes along with darker, riper fruit in a structured
expression of Chianti Classico. With some time in the glass, complex notes of
smoke, tobacco, licorice, mint, and black cherries emerge, completing this
gorgeous and intensely satisfying wine. In two separate tastings I found the
Rancia more complex than the Fontalloro, most likely owing to the poorer soils
of the Rancia vineyard. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2019.” Rosso di Montalcino, Valdicava, 2004 ($35.99) - Valdicava, one of the finest Brunello producers, goes back to 1953 when Vincenzo Abbruzzese’s grandmother bought 10 hectares of gently sloping land in the coolest part of Montalcino. She and Vincenzo’s grandfather planted the first vines and built a winery there. Vincenzo’s father was not interested in viticulture; he moved to Siena where Vincenzo was born and raised. Vincenzo entered the University at Florence to study engineering. With graduation approaching in 1987, his grandfather announced that he would retire from winemaking and sell Valdicava. Vincenzo had an epiphany and took over at the winery. The property desperately needed improvement. Although Vincenzo had little capital, he worked hard and began a series of changes that have shaped Valdicava into a top quality winery, and today his Brunello sells for over $100 per bottle. The 2004 vintage was a very good vintage, yet top Brunello producers like Valdicava declassified all but their very best grapes into their Rosso. Collosorbo Brunello di Montalcino, 1996 ($35.99) - Parker: 89 “Avoids some of the vintage’s austerity and hard tannic grip and offers a complex bouquet of licorice, tobacco, leather, cherry, and earth. It is medium bodied, with rich fruit, good purity, and a moderately tannic finish displaying no harshness. It should drink well for 12-15 years.”
Rocca
di Montegrossi Chianti Classico Riserva San Marcellino, 2003 ($54.99) -
Parker
Tenuta San Guido “Guidalberto,” 2003 and 2005 ($55.99) - I’ve been excited about these magnificent wines since tasting the 2003 at the winery a few years ago. If you don’t recognize the name, this is the winery that makes the world-class Sassicaia in Bolgheri, Tuscany! This “second label,” from land adjacent to the “Sassicaia” vineyard, was simply outstanding - far better than the youthful 2002 Sassicaia was at that time. Admittedly, 2002 was a weak vintage, but the 2002 Sassicaia still received “3 bicchieri” (3 glasses - the highest award) in the guide Vini 2006 by Gambero Rosso and “5 grappoli” (5 clusters - the highest award) in the guide Duemilavini 2006 by the Italian Sommelier Association. Made from 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, and 10% Sangiovese, this wine was an overachiever in 2003. The 2005 is also stunning. Wine Spectator 90: “Wonderful aromas of crushed blackberry and cherry follow through to a full-bodied palate, with velvety tannins and a long finish. Needs time to develop in the bottle, but hard not to drink now. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Sangiovese. Best after 2009.” Delicious wine at 1/3 the price of Sassicaia. Very limited. For more information, go to www.sassicaia.com/gb/wine/wineguidalberto.
Lisini Brunello, 2001 ($62.99) - This wine hasn't been reviewed, but Lisini has been a consistently fine producer. Not tasted, but I'm sure it needs another few years. Ciacci Piccolomini Brunello di Montalcino “Pianrosso,” 1999 ($67.99) - Ciacci is one of the most sought-after and collectible producers in Italy. This ancient, 32-hectare estate includes the Pianrosso vineyard from which the best grapes are selected for the Brunello. The Wine Spectator: “These wines are a joy to taste. Giuseppe Bianchini is a master in the vineyard.” Robert Parker: 93 “Ciacci is one of my favorite Tuscan producers... one of Montalcino’s superstar estates. The 1999, one of the best to date, announces its importance with warm and potent aromas of plums and red currants, chocolate, and tar. The rich and concentrated flavors, deep, supple, and very long, have the dimension, class, and definition that put the Sangiovese of Montalcino in a category of its own. Drink 2005-2020.” This is a big Brunello. The Wine Spectator: “The 1999 vintage is outstanding in quality, the third great vintage in a row.” Robert Parker: “An extraordinary vintage for Brunello di Montalcino.” Weather conditions were perfect. Plentiful winter rainfall and light July rains ensured that the vines stayed well-hydrated throughout the warm growing season. Ideal fluctuations of day and night temperatures allowed the grapes to develop intense varietal aromas, and the fruit was absolutely perfect at harvest in late September. Some producers consider 1999 to be an even better vintage for Brunello than the great 1997 with wines of greater balance and complexity. Canalicchio di Sopra Brunello di Montalcino, 2001 ($69.95) - This wine is o ne of the most consistent Brunellos. Wine Spectator 90: “Aromas of blackberry, cherry, and lightly toasted oak follow through to a full-bodied palate with fine and silky tannins and a long finish. This is tight and structured. Needs time in the bottle. Best after 2008. 1,690 cases made.” Valdicava Brunello di Montalcino, 2003 ($129.95) - With a dramatic bouquet, great depth and length, and complex cedar and tobacco notes, this is a world-class wine. Wine Spectator: 95 “Enticing aromas of meat and mushroom pie mingle with rich plum and spices. Full-bodied, with silky, caressing tannins and intense fruit and mineral flavors. Well-crafted, finishing long. The flagship Brunello in 2003. The wine of the vintage. Best after 2010. 2,800 cases made.”
Valdicava Brunello di Montalcino, 2004
($119.99) -
Parker: 91-94
"Very
different than the 2003 in its personality and sheer class. Vibrant
and aromatic with terrific length in its perfumed fruit with ripe,
sweet tannins that are beautifully woven into its frame. It shows tons
of detail and clarity in a compelling and utterly irresistible style.
Drink: 2014-2024."
Additional older vintages and rarities can be found at our Oldies But Goodies page. Piedmont Bruno Pasquero Barbera D'Alba, 2006 ($21.99) and Le Cecche Barbera D'Alba, 2007 ($25.99) - I couldn't choose between these wonderful wines, so I bought them both! The Pasquero wine shows lovely aromatics and gorgeous, concentrated fruit. Aged in large wood, this wine has fine texture without any oaky character. It is delicious! The Le Cecche is a bit more modern. It was aged 16 months in 50% new, part American and part Taransaud French 500L oak casks (larger than barrique). Ripe and dramatic fruit is accompanied by numerous subtleties, spice, a hint of high quality wood, balance, and length. I love these wines!
Pelissero Barbera d’Alba "Piani," 2007 ($23.99), Barbaresco "Nubiola," 2006 ($39.99), and Long Now, 2005 ($52.99) - Antonio Galloni, in Parker’s Wine Advocate, says "Giorgio Pelissero is a young, passionate producer based in Treiso. As outstanding as the Barbarescos can be, I find just as much pleasure in his Dolcettos and Barberas which are among the finest in the region. From top to bottom this is a first-class set of wines." High-end Barberas should be more popular for their ripe flavors and great value. Pelissero’s is still young, but it has excellent fruit and very good balance. Galloni: 90 "Beautiful in the way refined layers of perfumed dark fruit grace the palate. This mid-weight Barbera offers plenty of complexity and elegance, especially at this price. Drink 2009-2015." I would give it another 6 months. The Barbaresco is a blend of grapes from six vineyards. It needs 2-3 more years in the bottle, but it is already complex and shows lovely floral, tar, and rose notes with a touch of licorice. Galloni: 91+ "A gorgeous, impeccably balanced wine. Sweet roses, dried cherries, spices, and herbs are woven into a rich, textured fabric that caresses the palate with notable elegance and class. Deceptively medium in body, the Nubiola reveals a gorgeous perfume and a long, refined finish. Drink 2011-2021." The wonderful "Long Now" is a flamboyant blend of equal parts Nebbiolo and Barbera from vines averaging 25 years. It spent 18 months in new French barriques and features a beautiful balance of fruit, oak, and ripe tannins. Yummy! Galloni: 92 "The 2005 ‘Long Now’ possesses awesome richness, nuance, and detail. It sweeps across the palate with tons of dense, layered fruit. The wine’s considerable richness covers the tannins nicely, but there is plenty of structure underneath. This is a gem from Giorgio Pelissero. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2018. I was extremely impressed with the new releases." The wine is named after The Long Now Foundation, which promotes "slower/better" thinking as opposed to "faster/cheaper." Bruno Pasquero Nebbiolo D’Alba, 2004 ($24.99) - Piemonte is the home of great Nebbiolo-based wines such as Barolo, Barbaresco, and Gattinara. This noble varietal is very fussy about where it is grown because it is late-ripening and needs sunny hillside vineyards and specific soils to perform at its best. Many of the best producers will also make a Nebbiolo that doesn’t claim a prestigious DOC either because it is from a lesser area or because it is declassified (those particular grapes were not good enough for the famous label). Most of these wines are disappointing and vary greatly from year to year, but Bruno Pasquero’s 2004 is a gem. Made in a relatively modern style, it shows very good fruit, a complex, aromatic bouquet of herbal cedar, the "tar and roses" character of the varietal, and much of the complexity of a more expensive wine. It was made from 30 to 40-year old vines and aged in large oak. This is a very young wine that will benefit from aging. It is quite rough and tannic when first opened; the second day it is very impressive! Distinctive and very well made!
Veglio Michelino & Figlio Barolo, 2003, DOCG ($29.99) - This is a surprisingly good Barolo for this price. The Wine Spectator gave it a very respectable review: 87 "A very good wine, ready to drink, with dried fruit, plum, and a hint of mahogany. Full and chewy, but a little austere. Why wait? Drink now through 2012. 1,250 cases made." Mauro Veglio Barolo DOCG, 2003 ($36.99) - It’s a pleasure to find such a good Barolo at such a good price. Surprisingly refined for a young Barolo, it can be enjoyed now or aged a few more years. The Veglio family grew and sold grapes for several generations until neighbor and friend Elio Altare (a leading producer of Barolo in the modern style) convinced Mauro and Daniela Veglio to make their own wine. In 1992 they built a winery and began an aggressive green harvest program to reduce yields. They had previously been paid by the quantity they grew; now quality was paramount. The use of French barrique and other winemaking techniques changed the style of the wines to feature more concentration and less aggressive tannin. By declassifying some of his single vineyards and then blending them for their particular strengths, Mauro has created a Barolo “normale” that is stunning for its elegance with a nose of crushed rose petals and beautiful underlying red fruits accentuated by a soft tannic finish.
Boroli Barolo, 2001 ($45.99) - Silvano and Elena Baroli bought the historic, but run-down, Cascina Bompe on top of the Madonna di Como hill, just outside Alba in 1997 and began making a terrific Barbera which we have carried for the last two vintages. They also own the La Brunella farm in Castigione Faletto where they produce this and several cru Barolos. Made in the new, fruit-forward style, this Barolo is developing beautifully and has immediate appeal (with decanting) despite its aging potential. Wine Spectator: 92 “Lots of dried flowers and ripe strawberry aromas follow through to a full-bodied palate, with velvety tannins and a long finish. Still tight. Needs time to open. Best after 2008. 2,100 cases made.” Brovia Barolo, 1999 ($49.99) - Stephen Tanzer: “The miracle of nature that has rewarded fans of the great wines of Piedmont with an unprecedented succession of stellar vintages reaches perhaps the summit of its expression with the arrival of the 1999 vintage. A glorious growing season, the fruit of which has been handled to perfection by the Brovia family of Castiglione Falletto, has produced Barolos that have both gravitas and grace, strength and athleticism; fruit and structure. Like a number of Barolo traditionalists, the Brovias prize the 99 vintage for its character and structure. Brovia Barolos spend 20 to 25 days on their skins in cement tanks with daily pumpovers used to control temperature. They are then aged in a variety of French and Slavonian casks holding around 30 hectoliters. No press wine is used in the final blends. These Barolos have fared well in recent years, and I now feel they are better than ever. Giacinto Brovia is benefiting from the increasing involvement of daughters Elena and Cristina.” For the first time, the Brovia family has decided to create a Barolo that reflects their multiple vineyard holdings in both Castiglione Falletto and Serralunga. This “simple” Barolo from a selection of vines combines some of the strength of Serralunga with a touch of the grace of Castiglione. This is a classic Barolo showing lots of red fruits on the nose and palate with a finish marked by slightly grainy tannins; the color bears the typical brick tint of pure Nebbiolo. It is nicely rounded in texture and relatively approachable. A particular value. We also have a few bottles of the Brovia Barolo "Rocche," 1999 ($66.99). Settimo Barolo "Rocche," 2001 ($54.99) and Barolo "Rocche," 2003 ($49.99)- These bottlings from the same producer offer terrific value and current drinkability. The 2003: Wine Spectator 90 points. "A silky and refined red with blackberry and tobacco character, medium body, and a clean finish. A beauty. Good value. Best after 2006. 570 cases made." The 2001: Wine Spectator 92 points. "This is really seductive on the nose with plums, perfume and cedar box aromas. Full-bodied, with big velvety tannins and a long, long finish. A beauty! Best after 2008. 1,590 cases made." Quantities are limited. Seghesio Barolo "La Villa," 1995 ($59.99) - Wine Spectator 94: "This full-bodied red took time to open up, but the ripe, sweet black currant character hidden below the wet earth, smoke and cedar blanket is stunning in its purity. A firm wine, with the depth and complexity to age[this was written in 1999]." Corino Barolo “Vigna Giachini, 1995 ($64.99) is an excellent wine imported by Marc de Grazia. This is a wonderful example of the new style of Barolo: deep red color extraction, shorter aging in barrique (instead of long aging in large barrels) and earlier drinkability. This is a serious wine that is now very approachable. Fontanafredda Barolo “La Villa,” 2000 ($59.99) - Parker 90: (at $93!) “The 2000 Barolo La Villa, from a part of the Cannubi vineyard in the town of Barolo, offers much spicy and tarry cherry fruit, good intensity and warmth, and a satiny texture. Well sustained. Drink: 2005-2015. Wine Spectator 91: (at $80!) “Intense aromas of blackberries, cherries, and vanilla with hints of fresh mushrooms. Full-bodied with velvety tannins and a beautifully balanced palate of ripe fruit and cedar. Best after 2007. 1,250 cases made.”Barbaresco “Cru Vanotu,” Pelissero, 1999 ($89.99) - Even those who will buy really expensive Cabernets and Bordeaux will rarely spend this much money for any white wine or for an Italian red. This wine is worth the price if any is; it is world class! A ripe blockbuster, it is beautifully balanced and refined. An amazing bouquet and a long finish put it in the elite league. It deserves its “3 bicchieri” rating by the Gambero Rosso. This is a memorable wine. The Azienda Agricola Pelissero is a family-run estate and winery located in the Piemonte’s Treiso district which is the heart of the Barbaresco production zone. The family grew and sold grapes for many years, but in 1960 Luigi Pelissero began to bottle his own wine which he sold as Barbaresco. Luigi established an excellent reputation for his wine, but his son Giorgio took the winery to a new level after completing his Master’s Degree in Oenology in 1993. Georgio brought stainless steel fermenting vats, French barrique, and other modern techniques to the winery. Today, Pelissero is one of the top 5 Barbaresco producers. Brovia Barolo “Rocche dei Brovia,” 1999 ($66.99) - The grand Rocche is always the most intensely aromatic of Brovia’s Barolos; with brick highlights to its color, it is profoundly concentrated displaying high floral notes backed by a complex minerality, all laid out against a seductive gaminess; its length and persistence on the palate are remarkable; a wine of class and depth. Tanzer 91-94. “Good, full red color. Deep, perfumed nose of strawberry, smoke, dried flowers, truffle and underbrush, with a noble minerality. Powerfully structured, strong and long; a wine of terrific verve and thrust. Really expands to cover the mouth. Tannins are strong but buffered by the wine’s material. Amazingly light on its feet for a wine of such fullness.” Mascarello Barolo Santo Stefano di Perno, 2001 ($69.99) - Robert Parker: 93 "What a pleasure it is to taste the 2001 Barolo Santo Stefano di Perno, easily the best in recent years. It displays a highly aromatic nose, with notes of roses, raspberries, minerals, and menthol with a feminine, yet structured personality and less of the green note this wine can show. This bottling can be a bit hard when first opened [written 10/06], but a little air will help to smooth the edges. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2021." Gaja Magari, 2003 ($69.99) - I wish I could dislike Angelo Gaja’s wines simply because of the outrageous price of his Barbarescos - we have the 2001 at $195 - but darn if he doesn’t make great, world-class wine. He also makes this more affordable wine that deserves your attention. A blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Cabernet Franc, it is as flamboyant as its producer. The wonderful aromatics are followed by extremely attractive fruit that is new world in style, but not overly extracted. This is a wine of extraordinary balance, finesse, and class. Franco Martinetti Barolo “Marasco,” 2001 ($89.99) - Serious Barolo at a serious price. This “Tres Biccheri” winner has a lovely bouquet and intense, bursting flavors. My sense that it is somewhere between the traditional and the new style was confirmed by the “tech sheet.” Part of the wine was aged in barrique; the rest was aged in large wood. This wonderful wine will benefit from three to five years in the cellar. Wine Spectator 90: “Good fruit and a silky texture. A subtle chocolate, vanilla aftertaste. Refined and delicate Barolo. Best after 2008.” P. Scavino Barolo ‘Carobric,’ 2000 ($99.95)Others 
Moncaro Terrazzo Esino Rosso, 2004
($8.99) - Marche’s Esino district
also produces some very pleasant red wines. This medium-bodied blend of 60%
Sangiovese and 40% Montepulciano shows lovely cherry and Beaujolais-like aromas
(from whole cluster fermentation), as well as bright berry fruit flavors with
hints of earth and oak. Soft, smooth, and satisfying, it begs for antipasto or
cured meats, olives, cheeses, tomato-basil bruschetta, focaccia, or jambalaya.Ars
Poetica Vulcano, Basilicata, 2005 ($9.99 net) and Ars Poetica
Aglianico del Vulture Riserva, 1998 ($19.99) - These closeout bargains
are relatively unknown but exceptionally good southern Italian wines. Ars
Poetica is a boutique winery located in the shadow of Mt. Vulture, an
extinct volcano in northern Basilicata. The altitude and wind currents
make its microclimate quite cool comparable to wine zones farther north.
The winery is named in honor of Basilicata’s most famous son the Roman
poet Horace who wrote lovingly about wine and is called the Roman poet of
wine. His Ars Poetica is a long poem dealing with literary
criticism. Diecigrani Nero D’Avola, Sicily, 2006 ($9.99) and Falanto Primitivo di Manduria, Puglia, 2005 ($10.99) - The Pieralisi family, the most prominent producer of olive oil equipment in the world, also owns several wineries in central Italy and, under the watchful eye of enologist Pierluigi Lorenzetti, has recently ventured into Sicily and Puglia. Diecigrani’s Nero D’Avola vines are located in the hills of western Sicily. The manual harvest is followed by 15-20 days of maceration and fermentation in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks. No wood is used. Nero D’Avola is Sicily’s most important red varietal. This one shows fragrances of forest berries and plums, a dry, spicy, warm taste, and a persistent finish. Serve it with roasted and grilled meats, pasta dishes, spicy cuisine, and cheeses. Falanto’s Primitivo is made from old vines (some are fifty years old). Primitivo (“earliest”) is typically the first red grape to ripen; this one is harvested in late August. Primitivo and Zinfandel are genetically identical, but the Italian versions taste clearly Italian. Lorenzetti’s Primitivo is aged at least three months in large oak barrels. The resulting wine has power and grace and can be enjoyed young but will improve with two to four years in the bottle. Falento’s Primitivo shows a fragrance of plums, currants, and raspberries followed by an intense, rich, dry taste and a fresh, clean finish. Serve it with braised and roasted meats, steaks, chops, lamb, pasta with rich sauces, cheese, and game. Li
Veli Passamante Salento Rosso, 2005
($12.99) - This is the new vintage of a
former “Wine of the Month” selection. With 35 hectares planted in Italy’s
Apulia district, Li Veli is a partnership between three families. Current
production using traditional Apulian varieties is 8000 cases with plans to
expand to 60 hectares and 25,000 cases of wine. This wine is made from 100%
Negroaramo grapes from two DOCs, Salice Salentino and Squinzano. Its rich,
fleshy, and juicy character shows both robustness and a touch of elegance.
Really good stuff! Montepulciano
d’Abruzzo, Stella, 2001 ($12.99/Magnum) - The lovely Stella Pinot Grigio
is now joined by a delicious red wine. This is a refined, fleshy, juicy wine
with an attractive bouquet and real character. It’s a remarkable value.
Montepulciano d’Abruzzo “Tatone,” Terre D'Aligi/Spinelli, 2001 ($17.99) - “Tatone” means grandfather in the Abruzzese dialect. It refers to the most prestigious and respected family member. A bright, juicy, upfront Italian wine with flavors of ripe cherries that’s firm, generous, easy to drink yet provides some complexity. Although aged mostly in large oak, it saw a little barrique. Very good! Wine Spectator: 88 Best Values "Blowsy, in-your-face Italian red with lots of fruit flavors. Full-bodied, soft, and round. Impressive style." Layer Cake Primitivo, 2007 ($18.69) - American Jayson Woodbridge (Hundred Acre) teamed up with fellow winemaker Philippe Melka to make the wonderful Australian Layer Cake Shiraz that we won’t have until the next vintage is released, probably in the fall. Expanding on the success of the Shiraz, the team is sourcing fruit from around the world to make three addtional wines under the Layer Cake label. None of these wines will be available year round, for the production is limited. The Italian Primitivo (Zinfandel) is terrific. It distinctly shows Australian and Californian influences and tastes much less “Italian” than most Primitovos. Enjoy this delicious, rich, melt-in-your mouth wine while we wait for the release of the Argentine Malbec next month. Both are stylistically similar to the Shiraz. The flavor profiles are, of course, different. Provenza Negresco Classico Rosso, Garda, 2005 ($19.99/750ml and $11.99/375ml) - Students of Italian wines never cease to discover new, interesting wines. I only recently learned of this serious wine from the southern slopes of the Tenesi Valley close to Lake Garda. Made from low-yielding, 30- to 40-year old indigenous vines (Groppello, Marzemino, Sangiovese, and Barbera), it was aged one year in new French barrique (Allier) and one year in used oak. Thoroughly enjoyable now with lasagna, cannelloni, and ravioli, it will continue to develop. For trivia buffs, the Marzemino grape is widely grown in the Trentino town of Rovereto. On Dec. 26th, 1769, thirteen-year-old Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart held his first public Italian concert in Rovereto. The town hosted Mozart and his father numerous times thereafter, and Mozart later immortalized the local wine in his opera Don Giovanni: "Pour the wine, excellent Marzemino." Enzo Boglietti Dolcetto D’Alba, 2006 ($19.99) - Dolcetto has been described as an
Italian version of Beaujolais, but most Dolcettos are much more intense
than Beaujolais. This one is the most intense I’ve ever tasted.
Boglietti is best known for his modern Barolos that avoid the extremes of
some of the modernists, but he also makes a terrific Barbera and this
amazing Dolcetto. Very limited. Palazzo della Torre, Allegrini, 2006 ($22.99) - This Veronese wine is somewhere between a Valpolicella and an Amarone. As Parker explains, “Palazzo della Torre (70% Corvina, 25% Rondinella, 5% Sangiovese) has long been one of my favorite ripasso-style wines. It reveals a plump, juicy personality loaded with perfumed, jammy fruit, roasted coffee beans, and new leather. It is absolutely irresistible, a gorgeous effort at this level and a terrific value. Allegrini employs a unique variation of the ripasso technique here. The traditional method calls for the wine to undergo a second fermentation on the skins that are left over from the vinification of the Amarone. Believing that this method leads to oxidized wines, Allegrini instead dries a portion of the grapes (around 30%) and ferments them separately in the same style as an Amarone, then adds that wine to the larger portion of the wine that is fermented in the conventional manner. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2010.” Because Sangiovese is not recognized in Veneto, this wine is classified as IGT, not DOC. La Macolina "Museum," 2000 ($27.99) - We’ve carried this Italian wine from Emilia-Romagna for several years. A blend of 85% Sangiovese Grosso and 15% Merlot, it has always been a delicious and very refined wine, and a great value at $20. Like the Spaltenna Chianti, the price of this wine has jumped due to the weak dollar and the great 2000 vintage. In addition, we must now buy it from a distributor instead of directly from the importer. The wine is very special and easily worth the price. Plump, deliciously ripe, and forward, it is a joy to drink. The historic property was once owned by the noble Monsignani family. Since its purchase by Guiliana Benedetti, the quality of the wine has only improved. Production was only 500 cases! Riondo Amarone, 2005 (regular $37.99; sale $29.99) - Alone among the great red wines of the world, Amarone is made from grapes that are allowed to dry for several months after they are harvested. Up to 30% of the water evaporates leaving grapes that are concentrated in flavor and sweetness and making a wine that is concentrated in flavor and alcohol. Ripe, rich, and raisiny, Amarone will stand up to the most intense food. It is rare to find a good one for $30.
Tenuta Santa Maria alla Pieve Decima Aurea 100% Merlot, 2000 ($49.99) - Many wine lovers ignore Merlot, but the Bertani family has found that truly outstanding Merlot can be grown just 4 km. south of the source of their Amarone. Bertani modified the Amarone technique for this wine. Instead of drying the grapes for three months before crushing and fermentation as is done with Amarone, they picked and dried half the grapes for one month and left the remaining grapes on the vines to be picked “late harvest.” The wine was aged in barrique and then in bottle for three years before release. Already complex and mature, it has a compelling perfume of red fruits, dried prunes, wild berries, mocha, eucalyptus, and vanilla. It avoids the raisiny Port-like character of Amarone, but it is rich in fruit, soft and supple, harmonious, and well structured with a long, intense finish hinting at licorice. A unique beauty!
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