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Tuscany Chianti Colli Senesi, Geografico, 2004 ($12.99) - Geografico is a large cooperative winery located in the beautiful Tuscan town of Gaole-in-Chianti. Some of their labels are blends of wine from their many members; others are wines from single vineyards or single regions. This is a blend of wines from hillside vineyards surrounding the gorgeous town of Sienna. They lie just outside the Chianti Classico zone in the Senesi district. The wine features aromatic strawberry, cherry, spice, and a mildly dry finish. Mostly whole cluster-fermented, this blend of 85% Sangiovese and 15% Canaiolo is ready to enjoy with burgers, sausages, fresh pasta, and pizza. Florentia Chianti Classico, 2005
($14.49) and Chianti Classico Riserva, 2004 ($19.99) - Judie and I visited
the Castallani family winery in Tuscany two years ago. A large concern,
they grow grapes but also purchase grapes and wine from other growers and
have enormous tanks full of wine that they can blend to the specifications
of the various importers with whom they deal. The excellent “value”
Chianti Riserva from Florentia, which we have carried for two years and
which comes from outside the Classico district, is now joined by its two
more distinguished brothers. The basic Classico is a beautiful and refined
expression of Sangiovese with medium body and solid fruit. The soft
Classico Riserva has even more depth of character, a slightly longer
finish, and even better balance and sense of proportion. These are also
great values!
Chianti Classico,
Spaltenna, 2003
($15.99) - Spaltenna has been our best-selling Chianti for the past five years. We had a great run with
the 1998 and 2000 vintages. The 2001 took a significant price increase, but the
new 2003 did not, and the quality easily justifies the price. This is really “good
juice.” Chianti Classico DOCG, Corte Dei Sassi, 2003 ($14.99) - The addition of 10% Cabernet has beefed up this exceptionally good Chianti. The bouquet is classic Sangiovese. There is plenty of ripe fruit, and the acidity makes it perfect with food. A year or two in the cellar will add complexity to this superb value.
Chianti Classico Lucignano, 2003 ($15.99) - This is also a product of the
Geografico winery. A blend of 90% Sangiovese and 10% Canaiolo, it has abundant
ripe fruit, fine balance, supple tannins, and enough structure for short-term
aging. Serve it with spaghetti ala Bolognese, risotto with porcini mushrooms, or
chicken Livornese.
Torri
Chianti Riserva, 2003 ($15.99) - The Agricoltori del Geografico is a
cooperative winery that was founded in 1961 by 17 growers; today, it’s members
number two hundred. Although the facility is located in the beautiful town of
Gaiole in Chianti, the heart of the Chianti Classico, its members come from all
over Tuscany. Geografico’s mission is to make quality wines at reasonable
prices. Torri is a single vineyard estate riserva (aged 2 years in oak) from the
Colli Senesi zone in southern Tuscany. A blend of 93% Sangiovese and 7% Canaiolo,
its robust dark berry fruit, smoke, and spice are balanced with fine oak
notes, rich earthiness, and round, soft tannins. Pair it with chicken, herbed
pork chops, Italian spiced meat loaf, etc. The Tuscan wines of Casa Emma (www.casaemma.com)
Chianti Classico Riserva, San Giovanni, 2001 ($22.99) - The flagship of Geografico’s Chiantis, this wine spent two years in barrel before its release. Refinement, depth of fruit, and exuberance are its hallmarks. A charming bouquet of rose petal, tobacco, and black cherry combines with flavors of plum, black fruit, spice, and mature wood. Serve this seamless, velvety wine with herbed beef roast, pappardelle with venison and porcini mushrooms, or proscuitto-wrapped veal chops. Altesino Rosso di Montalcino, 2004 ($26.99) - Just as the Allegrini above can be considered a “baby Amarone,” this tasty rosso is essentially a “baby Brunello.” Although the worldwide reputation of Brunello has encouraged a certain conservatism among Montalcino estates, Altesino, owned by Elisabetta Gnudi Angelini, is an innovative leader in Tuscany. Although Atesino pioneered the technique of aging its IGT wines in small French oak barrels, this beauty is made traditionally from 100% Sangiovese Grosso hand-harvested from the Altesino and Velona vineyards. The must remains in contact with the skins for 15 days. After fermentation, the wine is aged in large Slovenian barrels for seven months. This rosso offers a brilliant ruby-red color with a persistent bouquet of ripened fruit. On the palate the wine is round and well balanced offering cherry and plum flavors, hints of leather, and a velvety finish. It has real depth of fruit and character. Try it with pasta and meat sauces, white meat, or game casseroles. Wine & Spirits: 88 “Black cherry and raspberry flavors invest this with elegant fruit, soft and mellow. Serve it with grilled quail.” This wine is due in the first week of February.
Felsina
Chianti Classico Riserva, 2001 ($26.99) and Felsina
Fontalloro, 2001 ($44.99) - One of Tuscany’s finest producers, Felsina’s
Riserva outshines others with its depth, balance, and beautifully delineated
Sangiovese fruit. Daniel Thomases, writing for Robert Parker, underrated it at
89 points, but he correctly said, “it expresses the classic red currants,
licorice, and tobacco of the appellation in an earthy, muscular format.” The
Fontalloro is a bargain for a world-class wine. Thomases: 94 “Vies with
the legendary 1985 as the best in its distinguished history. Packed and powerful
with riper and sweeter fruit, rich dark chocolate, licorice, road tar, and a
dense, expanding finish which promises a
dozen years of high-class drinking ahead.” Friggiali
Rosso di Montalcino, 2003 ($27.99) - With an intense ruby-red color and fine perfume
characteristics, this fruity and fragrant wine is full, ripe, and lingering with
good fruit and well-balanced tannins. It is essentially a “baby Brunello.” Fattoria di Felsina Chianti Classico Riserva,
2003 ($27.99) - Parker 91:
“The 2003 Chianti Classico Riserva is ample and warm on the palate, offering
notable intensity in its dark red cherry fruit, tobacco and herb flavors,
outstanding length, and its very finessed finish supported by an underlying note
of minerality that provides freshness as well as balance. It is a terrific
effort. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2018.” Fontodi Chianti Classico, 1999 ($28.99) - Another beauty! Parker 91: “This 100% Sangiovese 1999 Chianti Classico provides more evidence of just how terrific this vintage is in Tuscany. Complex aromas of new saddle leather, jammy black cherry liqueur, and other black fruits jump from the glass of this dense ruby-colored wine. There are layers of fruit and extraction, full body, no hard edges, and an explosive long finish that lasts for nearly 30 seconds. Enjoy it now or over the next decade.”
Fattoria di Felsina Chianti Classico Riserva
“Rancia,” 2003 ($34.99) - Parker 93:
“Fel-sina’s single-vineyard 2003 Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia presents
more overt toasted oak notes along with darker, riper fruit in a structured
expression of Chianti Classico. With some time in the glass, complex notes of
smoke, tobacco, licorice, mint, and black cherries emerge, completing this
gorgeous and intensely satisfying wine. In two separate tastings I found the
Rancia more complex than the Fontalloro, most likely owing to the poorer soils
of the Rancia vineyard. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2019.” Sasso di Dante (Castellani) Brunello di Montalcino, 2001 ($36.99) - This is an amazing Brunello for the price. For an immediate infusion of cash, the Castello Romitorio winery sold off a portion of their 2001 production to the Castellani brothers, who own a large Tuscan winery that grows and purchases grapes from all over Tuscany and beyond. Because Italian law requires that D.O.C. wines must be bottled in the region of origin, this wine was bottled at Romitorio - the name appears on the capsule and cork - but the Castellanis had to use a different label, for this wine sells at $55 under the Romitorio label! Sandro Chia, who bought the Romitorio estate in 1984, is one of Italy’s major postwar painters - his sizable murals can be seen in Manhattan’s Palio restaurant. He began to restore the castle, but ran into financial difficulties, and the most recent word is that the estate is up for sale (for $5 million if you’re interested). The Wine Spectator reviewed this wine: 92! “Beautifully ripe fruit of plum, berry and dried flowers. Full-bodied, with fine tannins and a long finish. This is subtle yet seductive. Best after 2008” Rosso di Montalcino, Valdicava, 2004 ($35.99) - Valdicava, one of the finest Brunello producers, goes back to 1953 when Vincenzo Abbruzzese’s grandmother bought 10 hectares of gently sloping land in the coolest part of Montalcino. She and Vincenzo’s grandfather planted the first vines and built a winery there. Vincenzo’s father was not interested in viticulture; he moved to Siena where Vincenzo was born and raised. Vincenzo entered the University at Florence to study engineering. With graduation approaching in 1987, his grandfather announced that he would retire from winemaking and sell Valdicava. Vincenzo had an epiphany and took over at the winery. The property desperately needed improvement. Although Vincenzo had little capital, he worked hard and began a series of changes that have shaped Valdicava into a top quality winery, and today his Brunello sells for over $100 per bottle. The 2004 vintage was a very good vintage, yet top Brunello producers like Valdicava declassified all but their very best grapes into their Rosso. This one is superb, with rich Sangiovese fruit and good structure.
Collosorbo Brunello di Montalcino, 1996 ($35.99) - Parker 89
“Avoids some of the vintage’s austerity and hard tannic grip and offers a
complex bouquet of licorice, tobacco, leather, cherry, and earth. It is medium
bodied, with rich fruit, good purity, and a moderately tannic finish
displaying no harshness. It should drink well for 12-15 years.” Tenuta San Guido “Guidalberto,” 2003 ($49.99) - I’ve been waiting for the arrival of this magnificent wine since tasting it at the winery last summer. If you don’t recognize the name, this is the winery that makes the world-class Sassicaia in Bolgheri, Tuscany ! This “second label,” from land adjacent to the “Sassicaia” vineyard, was simply outstanding - far better than the youthful 2002 Sassicaia was at that time. Admittedly, 2002 was a weak vintage, but the 2002 Sassicaia still received “3 bicchieri” (3 glasses - the highest award) in the guide Vini 2006 by Gambero Rosso and “5 grappoli” (5 clusters - the highest award) in the guide Duemilavini 2006 by the Italian Sommelier Association. Made from 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, and 10% Sangiovese, this wine was an overachiever in 2003. Very limited. For more information, go to www.sassicaia.com/gb/wine/wineguidalberto.Castello di Romitorio Brunello di Montalcino, 2003 ($49.99) - Castello Romitorio, a massive 12th
century hilltop fortress in Montalcino, was purchased in 1984 by artist Sandro
Chia, who restored the castle, planted vines, and constructed a winery on the
castle’s ground floor. After investing in the most advanced equipment on the
market, he hired one of Italy’s leading oenologist, Carlo Ferrini. This
Brunello is half the price of the Valdicava, but the quality is surprisingly
high. With a seductive, deep bouquet and fairly forward fruit, this complex
Brunello will drink well in its youth, yet it will age well for 3-5 more years.
It has an intriguing spicy note, fine tannins, and a spectacular finish. This
balanced wine (13.8% alcohol) was aged for 12 months in French oak followed by
12 additional months in Slavonian oak.
Guidalberto, 2005 ($55.99) - Guidalberto
is produced at the famous Tuscan property Sassicaia from a separate vineyard on
its estate. It will never achieve the heights of the primary wine, but it
matures earlier and, at less than one-third the price, it is a solid value. Wine
Spectator 90: “Wonderful aromas of crushed blackberry and cherry
follow through to a full-bodied palate, with velvety tannins and a long finish.
Needs time to develop in the bottle, but hard not to drink now. Merlot, Cabernet
Sauvignon, and Sangiovese. Best after 2009.” Pertimali di Livio Sassetti Brunello di Montalcino, 1999 ($59.99) - Parker said, “If I had only one Brunello to drink, it would be Pertimali. This producer has been making spectacular wines since 1982.” The Montosoli hill, from which this wine comes, is known for producing wines that are a perfect balance of the power of southern Montalcino with the finesse of the north. Where most producers own properties in both zones and blend to achieve that balance, at Montosoli nature does all the work. Father Livio and his two sons combine the best of both innovation and tradition. The result is wines with rich, deep, and often exotically perfumed fruit, Brunellos that tend toward the Burgundian. This is a relatively accessible Brunello. The Wine Spectator: “The 1999 vintage is outstanding in quality, the third great vintage in a row.” Robert Parker: “An extraordinary vintage for Brunello di Montalcino.” Weather conditions were perfect. Plentiful winter rainfall and light July rains ensured that the vines stayed well-hydrated throughout the warm growing season. Ideal fluctuations of day and night temperatures allowed the grapes to develop intense varietal aromas, and the fruit was absolutely perfect at harvest in late September. Some producers consider 1999 to be an even better vintage for Brunello than the great 1997 with wines of greater balance and complexity. Lisini Brunello, 2001 ($62.99) - This wine hasn't been reviewed, but Lisini has been a consistently fine producer. Not tasted, but I'm sure it needs another few years. Ciacci Piccolomini Brunello di Montalcino “Pianrosso,” 1999 ($67.99) - Ciacci is one of the most sought-after and collectible producers in Italy. This ancient, 32-hectare estate includes the Pianrosso vineyard from which the best grapes are selected for the Brunello. The Wine Spectator: “These wines are a joy to taste. Giuseppe Bianchini is a master in the vineyard.” Robert Parker 93: “Ciacci is one of my favorite Tuscan producers... one of Montalcino’s superstar estates. The 1999, one of the best to date, announces its importance with warm and potent aromas of plums and red currants, chocolate, and tar. The rich and concentrated flavors, deep, supple, and very long, have the dimension, class, and definition that put the Sangiovese of Montalcino in a category of its own. Drink 2005-2020.” This is a big Brunello. The Wine Spectator: “The 1999 vintage is outstanding in quality, the third great vintage in a row.” Robert Parker: “An extraordinary vintage for Brunello di Montalcino.” Weather conditions were perfect. Plentiful winter rainfall and light July rains ensured that the vines stayed well-hydrated throughout the warm growing season. Ideal fluctuations of day and night temperatures allowed the grapes to develop intense varietal aromas, and the fruit was absolutely perfect at harvest in late September. Some producers consider 1999 to be an even better vintage for Brunello than the great 1997 with wines of greater balance and complexity. Canalicchio di Sopra Brunello di Montalcino, 2001 ($69.95) - This wine is o ne of the most consistent Brunellos. Wine Spectator 90: “Aromas of blackberry, cherry, and lightly toasted oak follow through to a full-bodied palate with fine and silky tannins and a long finish. This is tight and structured. Needs time in the bottle. Best after 2008. 1,690 cases made.” Valdicava Brunello di Montalcino, 1999 ($110) - Although $110 is a serious price tag, this is a very serious wine, perhaps the best young Brunello I’ve ever tasted. Owners of this wine will be sorely tempted to drink it now, but two or three years in the bottle would be best. Wine Spectator 94! “Dark, with intense aromas of ripe fruit, coffee, and toasted oak. Full-bodied, with a depth of ripe fruit and delicious black licorice flavors and silky tannins. A beauty. This equals the quality of the excellent 1997. Best after 2006.” Parker 93! Valdicava Brunello di Montalcino, 2001 ($125) - Wine Spectator’s 98! "Black-hued, with intense aromas of crushed berries and licorice with hints of oak. Full-bodied, with loads of fruit, velvety tannins, and a long, long finish. Superb. One of the best Brunellos I have had in a long time. Best after 2010." 2500 cases were made; 600 cases were imported into the U.S. Valdicava Brunello di Montalcino, 2003 ($129.95) - With a dramatic bouquet, great depth and length, and complex cedar and tobacco notes, this is a world-class wine. Wine Spectator: 95 “Enticing aromas of meat and mushroom pie mingle with rich plum and spices. Full-bodied, with silky, caressing tannins and intense fruit and mineral flavors. Well-crafted, finishing long. The flagship Brunello in 2003. The wine of the vintage. Best after 2010. 2,800 cases made.” Additional older vintages and rarities can be found at our Oldies But Goodies page. Piemonte San Sylvestro Barbaresco, 2003 & 2004 ($21.99) - It is surprising that most fanciers of Barolo know little about Barbaresco. Virtually identical to Barolo in style and quality, Barbaresco is the other Piedmontese red wine made from 100% Nebbiolo grapes. Although many are as pricey as Barolos, because Barbaresco is less well known, one can sometimes find exceptional bargains. This Barbaresco is not gigantically styled, but it is pure Nebbiolo in a soft, smooth style that often takes Barolos more than 10 years to achieve. Very attractive! Costa
di Bussia “Arcapla” Barbera/Nebbiolo, 2001 ($24.99) - Arcapla
translates as “to stack on top of something else.” Barbera grapes mature
almost a month before Nebbiolo, so the Barbera for this wine finished fermenting
and was already in barrique when the Nebbiolo was harvested. After fermentation,
the Nebbiolo was added to - figuratively stacked on top of - the Barbera. A
touch of oak shows in this delicious, bright, and beautifully balanced wine.
Sweet fruit and tannins dominate the middle palate. A touch of acidity sets up a
lingering finish. Costa di Bussia “Campo del Gato” Barbera d'Alba, 2003 ($25.99) - Campo del Gato translates as “field of the cats” and refers to a warm vineyard where cats bask in the sun. The sun is also good for the vines. This barrique-aged Barbera shows beautiful fruit. The oak is not obvious, but the quality is! This youthful wine needs airing or time in the bottle to round out. Mauro Veglio Barolo DOCG, 2003 ($36.99) - It’s a pleasure to find such a good Barolo at such a good price. Surprisingly refined for a young Barolo, it can be enjoyed now or aged a few more years. The Veglio family grew and sold grapes for several generations until neighbor and friend Elio Altare (a leading producer of Barolo in the modern style) convinced Mauro and Daniela Veglio to make their own wine. In 1992 they built a winery and began an aggressive green harvest program to reduce yields. They had previously been paid by the quantity they grew; now quality was paramount. The use of French barrique and other winemaking techniques changed the style of the wines to feature more concentration and less aggressive tannin. By declassifying some of his single vineyards and then blending them for their particular strengths, Mauro has created a Barolo “normale” that is stunning for its elegance with a nose of crushed rose petals and beautiful underlying red fruits accentuated by a soft tannic finish.
Settimo
Barolo, 1999 ($29.99 net) and Barolo Rocche, 2000
($44.99) - These fabulous values that can be enjoyed now with decanting or aged
a few more years. The regular Barolo received a Wine Spectator 88:
“Intense aromas of plums and berries, with hints of spices. Full-bodied, with
velvety tannins and a medium coffee and prune aftertaste. Best after 2007.” The Rocche
received a 92: “Fantastic aromas of plums, fresh flowers, licorice, and
tar follow through to a full-bodied palate and supersilky tannins. Tight but
shows excellent potential. Best after 2008”
Barolo, Stefano Farina,
2001 ($39.99) - Wine Spectator:
92 “This is very concentrated on the nose with plum, dried flowers, and
fruits. Full-bodied, with big velvety tannins and a deep palate of ripe and wild
fruits. Port-like. Better than the 2000. Best after 2008.”
Ferrando Carema “White Label,” 1999
($33.99) - Carema is a rare Piedmontese wine. Only one family, the Ferrandos,
make it from a mere 16 hectares. Like its better-known Barolo and Barbaresco
neighbors to the south, Carema is made from Nebbiolo grapes. Unlike them,
Carema comes from steeply terraced vineyards of its namesake village tucked
away in the foothills of the Alps in the shadow of Monte Bianco. It is much
cooler here, and the grapes don’t fully ripen until mid-October. In great
vintages like 1999 (the third fine vintage in a row), the Ferrandos also make
a “black label,” a sort of reserve wine. The white label is always the
hallmark of this appellation: subtle, silky, marked by the fruit of bitter
cherries, with balance and elegance. This Nebbiolo from the mountains
does not bring with it the forceful tannins of Barolo and Barbaresco, but its
gentleness belies a strength of character and ageworthiness that produces wine
of dimension that deepens with time. Drink now or age. A serious wine. Batasiolo Barbares co, 1997 ($39.99) - Wine Spectator 91 and Top 100. “A wonderfully crafted red, with complex aromas of ripe fruit, Indian spice and tea. Full-bodied, with extremely polished tannins and a finish that goes on for minutes. Drink now thru 2006.”G.B.
Burlotto Barolo “Cannubi,” 1995 ($39.99) - Barolo, the king of Italian
reds, is produced in limited quantities from the fickle Nebbiolo grape which
takes its name from the fog (nebbia) that frequently envelops this hilly terrain
just south of the Alps. It is a marginal climate in which conditions only
occasionally produce “classic” wines. In this regard it has more in common
with Burgundy than perpetually sunny California or Australia. In a great
vintage, the full potential of the Nebbiolo is realized, and the resultant wines
are among the most concentrated, aromatic, and age-worthy reds on Earth. A
string of such vintages began in 1995, and this wine from the famed Cannubi hill
is still a baby with great potential. Decant this traditional wine for 3-4 hours
or age it another 5 years. Giovan Battista Burlotto, il Commendatore, bought
property in the Verduno area in the mid-19th Century and founded this winery
which is still family run. In a time when wines were sold in cask, he is
credited with being the first in the area to offer wine in bottles with labels
bearing the “Chateau” name as in France. Boroli Barolo, 2001 ($42.99) - Silvano and Elena Baroli bought the historic, but run-down, Cascina Bompe on top of the Madonna di Como hill, just outside Alba in 1997 and began making a terrific Barbera which we have carried for the last two vintages. They also own the La Brunella farm in Castigione Faletto where they produce this and several cru Barolos. Made in the new, fruit-forward style, this Barolo is developing beautifully and has immediate appeal (with decanting) despite its aging potential. Wine Spectator: 92 “Lots of dried flowers and ripe strawberry aromas follow through to a full-bodied palate, with velvety tannins and a long finish. Still tight. Needs time to open. Best after 2008. 2,100 cases made.” Brovia Barolo, 1999 ($46.99) - Stephen Tanzer: “The miracle of nature that has rewarded fans of the great wines of Piedmont with an unprecedented succession of stellar vintages reaches perhaps the summit of its expression with the arrival of the 1999 vintage. A glorious growing season, the fruit of which has been handled to perfection by the Brovia family of Castiglione Falletto, has produced Barolos that have both gravitas and grace, strength and athleticism; fruit and structure. Like a number of Barolo traditionalists, the Brovias prize the 99 vintage for its character and structure. Brovia Barolos spend 20 to 25 days on their skins in cement tanks with daily pumpovers used to control temperature. They are then aged in a variety of French and Slavonian casks holding around 30 hectoliters. No press wine is used in the final blends. These Barolos have fared well in recent years, and I now feel they are better than ever. Giacinto Brovia is benefiting from the increasing involvement of daughters Elena and Cristina.” For the first time, the Brovia family has decided to create a Barolo that reflects their multiple vineyard holdings in both Castiglione Falletto and Serralunga. This “simple” Barolo from a selection of vines combines some of the strength of Serralunga with a touch of the grace of Castiglione. This is a classic Barolo showing lots of red fruits on the nose and palate with a finish marked by slightly grainy tannins; the color bears the typical brick tint of pure Nebbiolo. It is nicely rounded in texture and relatively approachable. A particular value. Massolino Barolo “Vigna Margheria,” 1997 ($49.99) - Wine Spectator 92: “Very pretty aromas of cinnamon, ripe plums, and dried fruits. Full-bodied, with a velvety texture and ripe tannins. Long and delicious. A beauty. Best after 2004. Only 850 cases made.” Seghesio Barolo "La Villa," 1995 ($49.99) - Wine Spectator 94: "This full-bodied red took time to open up, but the ripe, sweet black currant character hidden below the wet earth, smoke and cedar blanket is stunning in its purity. A firm wine, with the depth and complexity to age[this was written in 1999]." Corino Barolo “Vigna Giachini, 1995 ($54.99) is an excellent wine imported by Marc de Grazia. This is a wonderful example of the new style of Barolo: deep red color extraction, shorter aging in barrique (instead of long aging in large barrels) and earlier drinkability. Make no mistake, this is a serious wine that will benefit from more bottle age, but it is very approachable. Marcarini Barolo “La Serra,” 1997 ($54.99) - A fabulous vintage! Marcarini is an historic winery located in the town of La Morra. Luisa and Manuel Marchetti run this family winery, which was handed down from Luisa’s family. Armando Cordero is the consulting oenologist. Marcarini was the first Barolo winery to designate single vineyards (crus) on their labels. La Serra is a 7.5 acre vineyard with a south/south-westerly exposure. It is slightly cooler and breezier than nearby vineyards. The resulting wines are softer and rounder, with greater finesse and more prominent floral elements. They also are remarkably drinkable when young. The 1997 is just about ready. Expansive and deep fruit follows a very attractive aroma. It will hold many more years. Delicious! Barolo “Brunate,” Marcarini, 1998 ($54.99) - Robert Parker: “1998 looks to be a synthesis in style between the exotic, over the top ripeness of 1997 and the classically balanced, structured, long-lived 1996. It is a beautiful vintage, and when all the dust settles, the 1998s may turn out to be the most balanced, concentrated, fragrant, and compelling Barolos of the extraordinary trilogy of 1996, 1997, and 1998.” Stephen Tanzer 91-93: "Deep red. Pure, fruit-driven aromas of redcurrant, tobacco, and licorice along with a strong floral component and a balsamic suggestion of incense; atypically open for this wine at such an early stage. Finishes with big, broad, ripe tannins.” Fontanafredda Barolo “La Villa,” 2000 ($59.99) - Parker 90: (at $93!) “The 2000 Barolo La Villa, from a part of the Cannubi vineyard in the town of Barolo, offers much spicy and tarry cherry fruit, good intensity and warmth, and a satiny texture. Well sustained. Drink: 2005-2015. Wine Spectator 91: (at $80!) “Intense aromas of blackberries, cherries, and vanilla with hints of fresh mushrooms. Full-bodied with velvety tannins and a beautifully balanced palate of ripe fruit and cedar. Best after 2007. 1,250 cases made.” Barbaresco “Cru Vanotu,” Pelissero, 1999 ($84.99) - Even those who will buy really expensive Cabernets and Bordeaux will rarely spend this much money for any white wine or for an Italian red. This wine is worth the price if any is; it is world class! A ripe blockbuster, it is beautifully balanced and refined. An amazing bouquet and a long finish put it in the elite league. It deserves its “3 bicchieri” rating by the Gambero Rosso. This is a memorable wine. The Azienda Agricola Pelissero is a family-run estate and winery located in the Piemonte’s Treiso district which is the heart of the Barbaresco production zone. The family grew and sold grapes for many years, but in 1960 Luigi Pelissero began to bottle his own wine which he sold as Barbaresco. Luigi established an excellent reputation for his wine, but his son Giorgio took the winery to a new level after completing his Master’s Degree in Oenology in 1993. Georgio brought stainless steel fermenting vats, French barrique, and other modern techniques to the winery. Today, Pelissero is one of the top 5 Barbaresco producers. Brovia Barolo “Villero,” 1996 ($5 9.99) - One of Brovia’s 4 Barolo vineyards, Villero produced a densely colored wine with earth, mushroom, and truffle flavors. This is a masculine, brooding wine with sweet, ripe fruit. A classic Barolo in a big style. Stephen Tanzer: 92+ “Saturated ruby-red. Perfumed, roasted aromas of red fruits, dried flowers, mint and licorice. Extremely closed in the mouth. Currently large-scaled and broad, but already conveys an impression of sweetness and compelling inner-mouth perfume of bitter cherry, licorice and mint. Finishes with serious tannins and brooding suggestions of licorice, menthol and minerals.”Brovia Barolo “Rocche dei Brovia,” 1999 ($66.99) - The grand Rocche is always the most intensely aromatic of Brovia’s Barolos; with brick highlights to its color, it is profoundly concentrated displaying high floral notes backed by a complex minerality, all laid out against a seductive gaminess; its length and persistence on the palate are remarkable; a wine of class and depth. Tanzer 91-94. “Good, full red color. Deep, perfumed nose of strawberry, smoke, dried flowers, truffle and underbrush, with a noble minerality. Powerfully structured, strong and long; a wine of terrific verve and thrust. Really expands to cover the mouth. Tannins are strong but buffered by the wine’s material. Amazingly light on its feet for a wine of such fullness.”
Gaja Magari, 2003
($69.99) - I wish I could dislike Angelo Gaja’s wines simply because of the
outrageous price of his Barbarescos - we have the 2001 at $195 - but darn if he
doesn’t make great, world-class wine. He also makes this more affordable wine
that deserves your attention. A blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and
Cabernet Franc, it is as flamboyant as its producer. The wonderful aromatics are
followed by extremely attractive fruit that is new world in style, but not
overly extracted. This is a wine of extraordinary balance, finesse, and class. Conterno Fantino Barolo “Sori Ginestra,” 1997 ($74.99) and Barolo “Vigna del Gris,” 1997 ($74.99) - These are the best of the 1997 Barolos that I have tasted. Open the 2001 Gambero Rosso guide and you’ll see Conterno Fantino with almost a continuous row of “Three Glasses,” their rarely awarded top score. This state-of-the-art winery was founded by three friends (Guido Fantino and Diego & Claudio Conterno) in 1982. They have gradually acquired some famous old vineyards, including “Parussi” and “Sori Ginestra.” “Vigna del Gris” is part of the “Sori Ginestra” vineyard. It’s southeasterly exposure and sandier soil make its wines more delicate, elegant, and forward in most vintages. The Vigna del Gris needs 2-3 years; the Sori Ginestra needs at least 3-5 years. Both have outstanding bouquets and flavors. Both are world-class wines! Franco Martinetti Barolo “Marasco,” 2001 ($89.99) - Serious Barolo at a serious price. This “Tres Biccheri” winner has a lovely bouquet and intense, bursting flavors. My sense that it is somewhere between the traditional and the new style was confirmed by the “tech sheet.” Part of the wine was aged in barrique; the rest was aged in large wood. This wonderful wine will benefit from three to five years in the cellar. Wine Spectator 90: “Good fruit and a silky texture. A subtle chocolate, vanilla aftertaste. Refined and delicate Barolo. Best after 2008.” Other Moncaro Terrazzo Esino Rosso, 2004 ($8.99) - Marche’s Esino district also produces some very pleasant red wines. This medium-bodied blend of 60% Sangiovese and 40% Montepulciano shows lovely cherry and Beaujolais-like aromas (from whole cluster fermentation), as well as bright berry fruit flavors with hints of earth and oak. Soft, smooth, and satisfying, it begs for antipasto or cured meats, olives, cheeses, tomato-basil bruschetta, focaccia, or jambalaya. Porticina, Umbria, 2004 ($10.99) - Good fruit and balance are the hallmarks of this medium-bodied blend of equal parts Merlot and Cabernet. This wine was made by Falesco who regularly gets great reviews from Robert Parker. Li
Veli Passamante Salento Rosso, 2005
($12.99) - This is the new vintage of a
former “Wine of the Month” selection. With 35 hectares planted in Italy’s
Apulia district, Li Veli is a partnership between three families. Current
production using traditional Apulian varieties is 8000 cases with plans to
expand to 60 hectares and 25,000 cases of wine. This wine is made from 100%
Negroaramo grapes from two DOCs, Salice Salentino and Squinzano. Its rich,
fleshy, and juicy character shows both robustness and a touch of elegance.
Really good stuff! Montepulciano
d’Abruzzo, Stella, 2001 ($12.99/Magnum) - The lovely Stella Pinot Grigio
is now joined by a delicious red wine. This is a refined, fleshy, juicy wine
with an attractive bouquet and real character. It’s a remarkable value. Montepulciano d’Abruzzo “Tatone,” Terre D'Aligi/Spinelli,
2001 ($12.99) - “Tatone” means grandfather in the Abruzzese dialect.
It refers to the most prestigious and respected family member. A bright,
juicy, upfront Italian wine with flavors of ripe cherries that’s firm,
generous, easy to drink yet provides some complexity. Although aged mostly in
large oak, it saw a little barrique. Very good! Wine Spectator: 88
Best Values "Blowsy, in-your-face Italian red with lots of fruit flavors.
Full-bodied, soft, and round. Impressive style."
Corte Mary Valpolicalla Classico Superiore
Ripaso “Passo Primo,” 2004 ($17.75) - This rich wine was made from 70% Corvina
and 30% Rondinella grapes. It was re-fermented on Amarone lees to ensure more
color, flavor, and concentration than is typical for Valpolicella. Aging took
place for 16 months in large oak barrels. Open this wine one hour before serving
it with roasts, game, and cheese. Palazzo della Torre, Allegrini, 2004 ($20.99) - This Veronese wine is somewhere between a Valpolicella and an Amarone. As Parker explains, (90) “Palazzo della Torre (70% Corvina, 25% Rondinella, 5% Sangiovese) has long been one of my favorite ripasso-style wines, and the 2004 is another winner. It reveals a plump, juicy personality loaded with perfumed, jammy fruit, roasted coffee beans, and new leather. It is absolutely irresistible, a gorgeous effort at this level and a terrific value. Allegrini employs a unique variation of the ripasso technique here. The traditional method calls for the wine to undergo a second fermentation on the skins that are left over from the vinification of the Amarone. Believing that this method leads to oxidized wines, Allegrini instead dries a portion of the grapes (around 30%) and ferments them separately in the same style as an Amarone, then adds that wine to the larger portion of the wine that is fermented in the conventional manner. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2010.” Because Sangiovese is not recognized in Veneto, this wine is classified as IGT, not DOC. La Macolina "Museum," 2000 ($27.99) - We’ve carried this Italian wine from Emilia-Romagna for several years. A blend of 85% Sangiovese Grosso and 15% Merlot, it has always been a delicious and very refined wine, and a great value at $20. Like the Spaltenna Chianti, the price of this wine has jumped due to the weak dollar and the great 2000 vintage. In addition, we must now buy it from a distributor instead of directly from the importer. The wine is very special and easily worth the price. Plump, deliciously ripe, and forward, it is a joy to drink. The historic property was once owned by the noble Monsignani family. Since its purchase by Guiliana Benedetti, the quality of the wine has only improved. Production was only 500 cases!
Torre Mastio Amarone, 2003
($39.99) and Porta Erba Amarone Classico, 2001 ($54.99) - There’s
nothing like an Amarone to stand up to intensely flavored food like Osso Bucco
or venison. These powerful, heady, high-alcohol wines can be as impressive as
they can be expensive; they cannot be made cheaply. The ripest Valpolicella
grapes (and only the ripest part of each bunch, which adds to the labor cost)
are laid out on straw mats in barn-like structures for months. The grapes lose
water and shrivel (not quite to raisins!) before they are crushed and fermented.
Because less than half of the usual juice is obtained, the resulting wine is
very concentrated with hints of Port and raisin character. The Torre Mastio is
an excellent entry-level Amarone with more depth than most in its price range.
The Porta Erba is just flat out great Amarone with purity, intensity, and
balance. We get both directly from the importer, so the prices are very
reasonable for the quality.
Terrabianca Campaccio, 1995 ($32.99) - Parker 89: “The dark purple-colored 1995 Campaccio (a Sangiovese/Cabernet Sauvignon blend) reveals more noticeable wood along with excellent sweet strawberry and black cherry fruit. Less spicy, but denser and not as evolved as some of its siblings, this effort requires 2-3 years of cellaring and should keep for 12-15.” Parker wrote this 8/99, so the wine is just about ready. Le
Caniette Rosso Piceno Nero di Vite, 2001 ($34.99) - From the Marches
region of Italy, this is a beautiful, modern, ripe wine that Parker estimated
would cost $51! “92 points. One of the finest examples of Montepulciano
from the Marches, very potent and penetrating on the nose, smoky, spicy, and
jammy. The dense, mouth-filling flavors and lengthy, velvety finish promise
another decade of highly pleasurable drinking. Drink 2004-2014” Tenuta Santa Maria alla Pieve Decima Aurea 100% Merlot, 2000 ($49.99) - Many wine lovers ignore Merlot, but the Bertani family has found that truly outstanding Merlot can be grown just 4 km. south of the source of their Amarone. Bertani modified the Amarone technique for this wine. Instead of drying the grapes for three months before crushing and fermentation as is done with Amarone, they picked and dried half the grapes for one month and left the remaining grapes on the vines to be picked “late harvest.” The wine was aged in barrique and then in bottle for three years before release. Already complex and mature, it has a compelling perfume of red fruits, dried prunes, wild berries, mocha, eucalyptus, and vanilla. It avoids the raisiny Port-like character of Amarone, but it is rich in fruit, soft and supple, harmonious, and well structured with a long, intense finish hinting at licorice. A unique beauty!
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