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Bordeaux 2005
Chateau Guillaume, Médoc, 2005 ($12.99) - This 32-acre property lies north of the great Haut-Médoc. The soil features clay and gravel here, and the planting consists of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Merlot. The wine was aged in 35% new oak barrels for ten months. Chateau Grand Paris Bordeaux Supérieur, 2005 ($12.99) - The 2005 Bordeaux vintage is shaping up to be one of the best (and certainly the most expensive) vintages ever. Thisvalue wine one obviously saw no oak, but it shows the color, depth of fruit, and balance that are the hallmark of the vintage. This blend of 65% Merlot and 35% Cabernet Sauvignon has not yet been reviewed, but Parker had the following to say about the 2003 Grand Paris: 87 Points “This tasty effort is fashioned from a small vineyard planted on clay and limestone soils. It is a fruity, soft 2003 to enjoy over the next 2-3 years. The world needs more of this type of inexpensive Bordeaux.” The attractive label is very “un-Bordeaux.” La Cour d’Argent, Bordeaux, 2005 ($14.99) - Parker: 87-89 “This lower pedigree wine represents undeniable
quality/value in 2005. This vintage is so deep in quality among the better run,
less heralded estates, that these wines should appeal to readers looking for
terrific values from Bordeaux. Sleeper of the vintage.” Wine
Spectator 85-88 “A wine with
rich fruit. Smoke, berry, and mineral character. Silky tannins. Well done.” Chateau Vieux Lapeyre, St.-Emilion, 2005
($17.99) - From a relatively cool part of Bordeaux, this 25-acre property
on clay and limestone soil yielded 3200 cases of wine from 60% Merlot, 20%
Cabernet Sauvignon, and 15% Cabernet Franc. A combination of barrique and
large vats were used for the 12-month aging process before bottling. Age
1-2 years. Chateau Arnaud, St.-Estephe, 2005 ($19.99) - The least mature of the quartet, this wine has good aging potential. I could not obtain any of the statistics regarding this wine, but St.-Estephes are typically grown on soil that has more clay than the rest of the Haut-Médoc, so it’s wines are usually classically structured and take longer to mature. Age 2-4 years. Chateau
Beaulieu “Comtes de Tastes,” 2005 ($19.99) - The 2003 Beaulieu was the
best wine in a Wall Street Journal tasting of inexpensive Bordeaux. We
still have some. The new release was reviewed by Robert Parker: 90-92
points “The brilliant St.-Emilion consultant, Stephane Derenoncourt, fashions
wines at this impeccably run Bordeaux Supérieur estate from a blend of 60%
Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc, and 10% Cab Sauvignon. Like so many smaller chateaux
in 2005, this unbelievable offering as well as fabulous bargain transcends its
class. There are 6,600 cases of this 2005, which achieved 13% alcohol naturally.
It offers a dense purple color as well as a sweet nose of melted chocolate,
cassis, and a subtle hint of wood. Opulent, round, and medium to full-bodied, it
is ideal for drinking over the next 5-6 years.” Chateau Rauzan-Gassies, Margaux, 2005 ($64.99) - Robert Parker: 92 “Significantly better from bottle than it was from barrel, the 2005 Rauzan-Gassies appears to be the finest wine this estate has ever produced. Dense purple-hued with a beautiful perfume of camphor, creme de cassis, licorice, bay leaf, and incense, it is a full-bodied, stunningly concentrated, broad, rich Margaux with lovely integrated tannins. This backward 2005 will handsomely repay cellaring. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2030+.” Les Forts de Latour, Pauillac, 2005 ($150)
2004
Fleur Cardinale, St.-Emilion Grand Cru, 2004 ($39.99) - Robert Parker 91 points: “TProprietor Dominique Decoster (of Havilland porcelain fame) has fashioned an outstanding 2004 (a 5,800-case blend of 75% Merlot and 25% Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon). Made with the assistance of notable winemaking consultants Jean-Philippe Fort, from Michel Rolland’s laboratory, and St.-Emilion’s bad boy, Jean-Luc Thunevin, it is a powerful (14.5% natural alcohol) sleeper of the vintage. A dark ruby/purple hue is followed by aromas of crushed red and black fruits interwoven with notes of flowers, cedar, new oak, and licorice. Possessing supple tannin, an opulent, medium to full-bodied mouthfeel, and beautiful purity, texture, and length, it can be drunk now and over the next 15 years. An estate on a roll! Drink: 2007-2022.” Lucia, St.- Emilion Grand Cru, 2004 ($47.99) - Parker 91 “A garage wine made under the auspices of consultant Stephane Derenoncourt, the flashy, flamboyant 2004 Lucia reveals seductive floral, cassis, and cherry-like flavors. It boasts an opulent personality, low acidity (atypical for a 2004), medium to full body, and abundant fruit and ripeness. Consume it during its first decade of life.” Chateau Pontet Canet, 2004 ($69.99) - Parker: 90 "Backward and powerful for the vintage, this blue/purple-colored 2004 exhibits classic creme de cassis, smoke, incense, and spring flower characteristics. Medium to full-bodied, dense, and excruciatingly tannic, this impressively endowed Pauillac is built for the long haul. However, patience will be required. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2025+." Chateau Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, 2004 ($ 99.99) - Robert Parker 90-92: “A blend of 53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 36% Merlot, 7% Petit Verdot, and 4% Cabernet Franc, the 2004 Pichon Lalande is vaguely reminiscent of the 1986 and 1988. Deep ruby/purple-tinged, with moderately high, firm tannin, a degree of austerity, plummy black currant fruit intermixed with licorice, smoke, and dried herbs, good freshness, and medium body, give it 2-3 years of cellaring, and drink it over the following 15+ years.”Chateau Pichon-Longueville Baron, 200 2003 Chateau Petit Bocq, St.-Estephe, 2003 ($25.99) – Parker 89: “A sleeper of the vintage, this impeccably well run St.-Estephe has produced a dark ruby/purple-colored 2003 with a sweet nose of cassis and blackberries intertwined with hints of licorice and earth. Medium-bodied, concentrated, and plump, it is a tasty effort to drink during its first decade of life.” Chateau Potensac, 2003 ($28.99)- La Cour d’Argent and Potensac are
perfect examples of the silliness of rating scores. They received marginally the
same score from Robert Parker and the Wine
Spectator, yet the Potensac is a much more serious and far superior wine. Go
figure! Parker: 89 “The dark
plum/purple 2003 Potensac is a sleeper of the vintage. Sweet, exotic scents of
mincemeat, black currants, cherries, and crushed rocks are followed by an
elegant, fleshy, forward, delicious claret to enjoy over the next 5-7 years,
although this wine has a tendency to last longer. It is one of the finest
Potensacs produced in several years. Drink 2006-13” Wine Spectator: 88
“Very pretty blackberry and currant aromas follow through to a full-bodied
palate, with fine tannins and a silky finish. Nicely done. Best after 2009.” Chateau Fontenil, 2003 ($31.99) - Parker: 90 “Fontenil is the home estate of the brilliant husband and wife enologists Michel and Dany Rolland. The authoritative, dark ruby/purple-tinged 2003 Fontenil offers hints of plums, blackberries, blueberries, charcoal, and smoke in its ripe, dense, moderately tannic personality. A broad, savory, full-bodied effort. Drink 2008-22.” Chateau Fombrauge, St.-Emilion Grand Cru, 2003 ($39.99) - A beautiful wine and a fine value, this luscious Bordeaux shows high quality new oak and ripe fruit. Serve it slightly cool to keep the alcohol from showing through. Robert Parker: 90-92 “One of the stars as well as sleepers of the vintage of St.-Emilion, this wonderfully opulent, deep ruby/purple-colored 2003 boasts a sweet nose of smoke, creme de cassis, plums, figs, and licorice. Voluptuously textured, dense, and pure, this hedonistic beauty will be drinkable early in life because of low acidity, an elevated pH, and lofty levels of glycerin as well as alcohol. Drink now-2014.” Chateau Faugères, St.-Emilion Grand Cru, 2003 ($39.99) - Robert Parker: 91-93 “This is an atypically powerful, blockbuster Faugères. The proprietor, Madame Guisez, has hit the bull’s eye with this opaque, purple-hued 2003. Boasting flamboyant notes of blackberries, chocolate, espresso, sweet cherries, and toast, it is an opulent, full-bodied, powerful, rich yet well-proportioned effort with decent acidity, loads of glycerin, and a heady, full-throttle finish. This mouth filling claret will benefit from 1-3 years of bottle age. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2018.” Note that Corinne Guisez sold this property in May, so this is the last vintage that she had a big hand in making. It remains to be seen how the new owners fare. Chateau Smith-Haut-Lafitte, Pessac-Leognon, 2003 ($69.99) 2002 Chateau Leoville Barton, 2002 ($69.99) Parker 92: “Even better from bottle than from cask, and one of the finest wines of the vintage, this dense purple-colored 2002 reveals wonderfully sweet notes of charcoal, fresh mushrooms, smoke, earth, leather, cassis, and cedar. Full-bodied, highly extracted, broodingly backward, dense, and deep, this impressively endowed offering is built for the long term. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2028. One of the classic wines of Bordeaux and still realistically priced, Leoville-Barton is becoming increasingly popular because of the extraordinary quality/price ratio it offers." Château Lafite Rothschild, 2002 ($399.95) - Spectator 95, Parker 94: “A brilliant offering and a candidate for wine of the vintage, this is classic Lafite. This is a medium-weight, quintessentially elegant style of Lafite with notes of lead pencil shavings/graphite along with black currants, plums, and crushed rocks/mineral. Wonderfully pure, dense, with a deep color and loads of fruit, definition, and a long finish, this is a brilliant, elegant Lafite Rothschild that builds in the mouth and has more power and density than it initially seems. Drink: 2008-2025.” 2001 Chateau Gruaud Larose, St. Julien, 2001 ($49.99) - Parker 91 “Excellent depth, relatively large structure, impressive weight and richness. Yet it has elegance and purity. Looks to be potentially outstanding with good aging potential. 2008-2018.” Wine Spectator 92 "Rich, dense nose of blackberry, coffee & smoke. Full-bodied, soft, round tannins and a long, smoky finish. Very fresh and velvety. Best after 2008." 2000 Château Jander, Moulis en Médoc, 2000 ($29.99) - The name of this château just doesn’t sound French, but everything else about this wine is spectacular. A tiny property of only 4.44 acres, it produced just 670 cases in 2000. This blend of 60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon was aged in 50% new barrels for 18 months. The concentration here is partly due to the age of the vines - 40 years! Oak shows through the fruit at this point, but it is a terrific Bordeaux, and comparable to wines costing $40. Château La Tour Carnet (Douves), Haut Médoc, 2000 ($32.99) - Along with Beychevelle, Duhart-Milon, Lafon-Rochet, Prieure-Lichine, and Talbot, this beautiful property was originally classified as a prestigious fourth growth in 1855! Over the years, it has rarely lived up to that reputation, but great strides have been made under new ownership since the late 1990s. The property is densely planted (8,000 vines/ha) with 53% Cab Sauvignon, 33% Merlot, 10% Cab Franc, and 4% Petit Verdot. Robert Parker 89: “An up-and-coming Médoc property run by Bernard Magrez, LTC has come on strong of late and is finally living up to its reputation. The dense 2000 boasts a sweet nose of graphite intermixed with cassis, licorice, and toasty espresso notes. Floral notes emerge in the glass. Heady, ripe, and medium to full-bodied, it is the finest Latour Carnet in many decades. Drink 2007-16” Wine Spectator 90: “Silky and pleasing, with berry, mineral, and blackberry character. Medium body. Fine finish. Very elegant. Best after 2008.” Château Begadan, Médoc, 2000 ($18.99) - Even more serious than the Malromé, this wine is a blend of 60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon. Aged for 12 months in high quality barrels (50% new), it shows some toasty barrel characteristics and terrific fruit on the nose and on the palate. Enjoyable now, it will continue to age for two or three more years. Quite attractive!
Château
Pontet-Canet 2000 ($99.99) - Lying adjacent to
Mouton-Rothschild, this Pauillac has improved dramatically in recent years.
Parker: 92+ “Impressively saturated
color. Promising aromas of black currants, vanilla, truffle, smoke, and mineral.
It is full-bodied, powerful, layered, and enticingly textured, but backward and
firm. The finish is long, but this broodingly backward, large-scaled
Pontet-Canet will require considerable patience. Drink 2011-2030.” 1999 Chateau Moulin du Cadet, St. Emilion Grand Cru Classé, 1999 ($34.99) - This is quite a serious St. Emilion! Situated on a hillside next to Chateau Fonroque, this estate was recently purchased from the Moulierac family. The Chateau and wine making facility have been completely restored. This wine is noted for its intensity, rich body, great breeding and aging potential. It is a blend of 85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon. The 1996 is of very high quality and is certainly approachable now. Domaine de Chevalier, 1999 ($44.99) - Purchased at an auction, this was previously $60. Parker 88 “This is a classic, finesse-styled Graves. The 1999 Domaine de Chevalier reveals scorched earth, tobacco, and red currant aromas along with rich, elegant, savory flavors, sweet tannin, and better integrated oak than previous vintages have exhibited. Enjoy this medium-bodied effort now-2010.” Chateau Pichon Lalande, Pauillac, 1999 ($99.99) - Parker 89+: “Putting on weight as it evolves in cask. Deep ruby color. Sexy nose of caramel, tobacco, sweet black currants, and spice. A silky-textured, seductive effort that may merit an outstanding rating if it develops more length and mid-palate. 2002-18” 1998 Chateau Chasse-Spleen, 1998 ($34.99) - Chasse-Spleen has been a solid producer from the commune of Moulis in the Haut Médoc. An early review of the 1998 vintage from the Wine Spectator rated it 85-89: “A pretty, balanced wine with blackberry, mineral and toasted oak character. Medium to full-bodied, with well-integrated tannins and a chocolate aftertaste. Almost outstanding.” Pavillon Rouge du Chateau Margaux, 1998 ($ 69.99) - Pavillon Rouge is Chateau Margaux’s second label and has always been one of the more successful second labels wines. Although it is expensive, it generally delivers great style and grace. The 1998 is no exception. It is still youthful and will continue to evolve, but it is beginning to show some of the smoothness and silkiness that are its hallmark. Parker reviewed it 4 years ago: 88+ “More structured (than the 1997), with intense black fruits as well as firmness and more noticeable tannin.” Decant this for an hour.Additional older vintages and rarities can be found at our Oldies But Goodies page. Jardin de Charlotte Bourgogne Rouge, 2005 ($18.69) - Becky Wasserman has spent 25 years traveling through Burgundy and Champagne selecting a fine portfolio of top producers to represent. Now working with her son, Peter, Becky has realized her long desire to make a delicious, everyday, quaffable Pinot Noir. The highly acclaimed 2005 vintage allowed Becky and Peter to use their contacts to source grapes for this project. Jardin de Charlotte, named for two of their favorite little girls (both named Charlotte), saw no new oak. Production was very limited, so don’t wait too long. Check out Becky’s web page at www.leserbet.com. Mercurey 1er Cru “La Buxynoise,” Cave de Buxy, 2003 ($21.99) - Pinot Noir and red Burgundy lovers, rejoice! This is the real deal; a truly delicious wine for under $30! So far I’ve been wary of the highly touted (by some) 2003 red Burgundies. Most of the ones I’ve tasted have been thin on fruit and quite tannic; in other words, lean and mean. That may work for action characters in the movies, but it is not a prescription for an early drinking, fleshy, enjoyable wine. My secret sources in the industry tell me that the best producers with the best terroir produced wonderful wines in 2003, but these are wines that cost $75 to $150 a bottle! Cave de Buxy has produced a winner with a fragrant and quite varietal aroma that is followed by very ripe fruit and good structure. Mercurey lies in Burgundy’s Côte Chalonnaise. Unlike many of the other second-tier Burgundy regions, the 1er Cru vineyards in Chalonnaise represent only 20% of the area planted to vine (the best 20%). Serve this wine with grilled game hens, chicken, duck, salmon, or tuna. SOLD OUT. WE ARE WAITING FOR THE NEXT VINTAGE.Chassagne-Montrachet
Rouge, Louis Latour, 2005 ($26.99) - Burgundy values are few and far between, but because most
people associate the village of Chassagne-Montrachet with its fabulous white
wines, the reds of Chassagne are oft Roger Belland Pinot Noir, 2005 ($27.99) - This unusually named red Burgundy is a dramatic case of microproduction. A NY/NJ importer/distributor contracted for the production from the two top rows of Belland’s organically- grown Santenay Premier Cru vineyards! Belland dropped fruit twice, discarding grapes during the growing season so that the vines could apply their energy to ripening the remaining grapes. The yield of only 68 cases represented a low 35 hectoliters/hectare. New barrels were used for 25% of the juice; the remainder fermented and aged in stainless steel. This young Burgundy from the great 2005 vintage will benefit from another year in the bottle.Louis Jadot Beaune 1er Cru Heritiers “Coucheroux,” 2002 ($35.99) - The 2002 Burgundies have gotten very good press. Parker 88-89 “Medium to full-bodied, deep and rich, the 2002 Beaune Clos des Coucheroux exhibits dark, stony, black cherry, strawberry, talcum powder, and perfume aromas. Thick, ample, and concentrated, it releases sweet waves of earth-tinged dark fruits on the taster’s palate. Its finish is firm, with copious quantities of tannin that will necessitate some patience. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2013.” Nicolas
Potel is one of a new breed of vinificateurs (wine makers)
redefining the meaning of négociant (They buy grapes, make the wine, and do
the marketing.) in Burgundy. After training in Australia and California, he
joined his father, the highly respected Gérard Potel, who was the manager
of Domaine de la Pousse d’Or in Volnay. Father and son also began a
négoce house in 1996. Upon his father’s sudden death in 1997, Nicolas
left the Domaine and took over the négoce business full time. He purchased
fruit and post-fermentation lots from prestigious domaines. His growing
relationship with respected growers, Gérard’s aura, and the difficulties
he had been through all helped open doors to some of the greatest Domaines,
even those who normally sell little or nothing except under their own label.
As early as 2000, Clive Coates MW said that Nicolas was “already a
super-star.” Potel is very involved in vineyard management with his
contract growers and insists, where possible, on a biodynamic (organic)
approach. He has strict requirements as to vine age (minimum of 35 years),
harvest date, grape selection, and parcel location. Of 2000 wines tasted in
2001, he made just 100 purchases. 2002 Red Burgundies from Domaine di Meix Foulot - The
wines of Mercurey, which lies just south of the prime real estate in
Burgundy, may lack the elegance, breeding, and complexity of their northern
brethren, but the best of Mercurey can be very fine indeed, especially in
top vintages such as 2002. Paul de Launay of Domaine di Meix Foulot has
passed the torch to his daughter Agnes. These wines have always been
special, but she has softened some of the rustic edges and made them more
rounded and graceful. These are stunning wines and good values. Volnay 1er Cru “Blondeau-Hospice de Beaune,” Labouré-Roi, 2002 ($49.99) - The Hospice de Beaune, a famous charity hospital in Burgundy, owns parcels of prime vineyards and gets donations from other parcels each year. Wines with their label are some of the best that Burgundy has to offer. This rich yet silky wine has amazing depth, elegance, and finesse. Jadot Beaune 1er Cru Heritiers “Clos des Ursules,” 2002 ($ 55.99) - Parker 90-91 “Jadot’s most famous wine from the Cote de Beaune is its Beaune Clos des Ursules. The 2002 bursts from the glass with smoky, spicy black cherries. Ample, concentrated, and powerful, it coats the palate with waves of syrupy black cherries, blackberries, and strawberries. Lush, intense, and deep, this huge, medium to full-bodied wine also reveals an extended, harmonious, beautifully ripe finish. Projected maturity: 2008-2015.”Domaine Bertagna has become one of the outstanding Burgundy properties. Created by George Bertagna, it was purchased in 1982 by Gunther Reh. Under the guidance of Reh’s youngest daughter, Eva, and her British husband, Mark Siddle, the 45 acre domaine is producing some of the best wines in Burgundy. Nuits St.- George 1er Cru “Murgers,” 1997 ($69.99) - This is a wonderful Burgundy from one of the finest producers in the Cotes de Nuits. Bertagna emphasizes fruit, structure and balance. All of these elements are present here, and the nose is absolutely gorgeous! It drinks surprisingly well young, but will clearly reward a few years of patience. Pommard “Clos des Poutures (Monopole),” 1999, Louis Jadot ($59.99) has a “demure dark fruit-scented nose. Jammy blackberries, cassis, and road tar can be found in its firm, slightly rustic, yet expressive personality. 89 points. 2003-08” Additional older vintages and rarities can be found at our Oldies But Goodies page.
Rhone
J. L. Chave Côtes du Rhône “Mon Coeur,” 2006 ($19.99) - Chave is perhaps the most famous name in the northern Rhône; Chave Hermitage is second to none. The family firm has been passed down from father to son since its establishment in 1481! The current owner, Jean Louis Chave, graduated from the University of California Davis. In addition to his focus on the great wines of Hermitage and St. Joseph, Jean Louis began a separate negoçiant business that buys high quality grapes from other parts of the Rhône. This beauty comes from four organically grown, low-yield vineyards. It is a blend of 50% Grenache, 45% Syrah, and 5% old vine Carignan. Big and juicy, it was aged in large wood casks for 12 months. Beauchene Chateauneuf du Pape, 2003 ($24.99) - a traditionally made Chateauneuf with good fruit and some complexity. This is a solid introduction to Chateauneuf du Pape. Drink now or age a year. Chateau Beaucastel Coudoulet de Beaucastel Cotes du Rhône, 2004
($27.99) - This has always been one of my favorite Rhônes. Parker 90:
“An outstanding effort and a blend of 30% Mourvèdre, 30% Grenache, 20% Syrah,
and 20% Counoise). As I wrote last year, 2004 is a terrific vintage for the
Perrin family estate wines, and this is a beauty with a gorgeous nose of
raspberries, dried herbs, pepper, black cherry, other sweet fruits, and a hint
of truffle. It has moderately intense tannins, will probably be better with
another 1-2 years of bottle age, and should keep for an uncommonly long time for
a Cotes du Rhône, 15 or more years (2008-22).” Tardieu-Laurent Gigondas “Les Grandes Bastides,” 2001 ($27.99) - T-L is Rhône negoçiant whose delicious, modern-styled wines are controversial with purists. This unfiltered wine is 75% Grenache, 15% Syrah, 10% Mourvèdre. It was aged in Alliers barrique (part new) for two years. Traditionalists find the level of wood excessive. My notes: Very deep color. Nose shows new oak, but plenty of fruit. Delicious. Very ripe, nice balance. Accessible, but good underlying structure. Parker: 89 “Minerality (crushed stones), blackberry and other assorted red and black fruits are found in the 2001 Gigondas. Firm, with high tannin, and a medium-bodied, fresh, vigorous, long, concentrated finish, it will drink well for 7-12 years. $35” Bouissiere Gigondas, 2004 ($28.99) - Red wines from France’s Rhône district are some of the best values out there! Châteauneuf du Pape gets all the publicity, but the wines of nearby Gigondas are equally good, and they are often better values. Bouissiere is a top Gigondas producer, and this is a remarkable wine. Stephen Tanzer: 91-93 “Saturated deep red. Smoky and lush nose with red berries, cherry, rose, garrigue, and roasted coffee. Excellent energy and precise red berry flavors. Finishes floral, juicy, and long with little sign of its 16% alcohol.” Bouissiere’s monumental “Font du Tonin” (barrique-aged, old vines) should arrive next month. Perrin Chateauneuf du Papes “Les Sinards,” 1999 ($29.99) - The Perrin brothers, Jean-Pierre and François, are best known for their famous Chateau de Beaucastel, but they have been building a small wine empire that includes other properties in the Rhone, a small estate in California (Tablas Creek), and a negoçiant house (La Vieille Ferme) that makes wines from the Rhone, Côtes du Lubéron and Côtes du Ventoux. They also make this cuvée which is declassified Beaucastel blended with grapes from their Olivet estate in the Les Sinards district, and some purchased grapes. The blend here is 50% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 20% Cinsault, and 10% Mourvedre. With solid fruit and structure, it is nearly ready to drink, and, at half the price of Beaucastel, it is a terrific value. Parker rated it 89 points. The ever-optimistic Wine Enthusiast gave it 91 points: “Ripe, perfumed, smoky, and richly chewy. There’s an element of gaminess, which should develop as the wine ages, but there’s elegance as well.”
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Galet du Papes “Vielles Vignes,” 1999 ($27.99) -
Jean-Luc Mayard is a proud, dedicated, and determined traditionalist who makes
classic, old-style CDPs. With an average vine age of 50 years, his wines are
intense, deep, and powerful expressions of a disappearing style. The gnarled
Vieilles Vignes parcel is over 100 years old and consists of 60% Grenache, 30%
Mourvèdre, and 10% Syrah. This is a concentrated, intense, and complex wine and
one of the appellation’s great achievements. It’s a steal at the price! Domaine la Bouissiere Gigondas “La Font de Tonin,” 2004 ($36.99) - The Rhône Valley continues to offer great values. Where else can you find a world class wine for less than $40? Gigondas lies northeast of Ch‚teauneuf du Pape and adjacent to Vacqueyras. In the southern Rhône, its quality is considered by many to be second only to Chateauneuf. The most commonly used grapes are Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre. Tanzer 95: “Massive in texture and weight, with sweet, dense, berry flavors building and expanding. Finishes with remarkable sweetness [ripeness, not sugar] as well as admirable definition to the outsized flavors. The tannins are completely absorbed by the sheer volume of fruit here.” Serve with game, beef stroganoff, or spare ribs. Cheese recommendations include St. Marcellin, Roquefort, and Epoisses. Domaine La Barroche Chateauneuf du Pape, 2004 ($39.99) - This is just the second release from this exciting new estate. Fresh from enology school, proprietor and winemaker Julien Barrot convinced his father to stop selling grapes and to establish their own domaine, which has 12.5 hectares and produces only red wine. The average vine age is 60 years old, but 1/3 of the vines are 100 year-old Grenache, and one parcel overlooks the vines of Chateau Rayas, the most expensive wine in all of Chateauneuf du Pape. The Barroche vineyards have been farmed organically for a generation. Stephen Tanzer 93: “Intense raspberry, strawberry, and exotic blood orange aromas complicated by garrigue and anise. Supple, sweet, and elegant, showing excellent depth and a broad range of red fruit tones. Silky, intensely fruity, and long.” Alain Voge Cornas Vieilles Vignes, 2000 ($47.99) - Both Robert Parker and the Wine Spectator have called Voge’s wonderful Rhones some of the “finest wines in the world.” Wine Spectator 91: “Classy, Refined and subtle, with blueberry, blackberry, and black currant flavors. Lively, succulent, medium-bodied Syrah with a long and juicy finish.” Châteauneuf du Pape “Bargeton,” Patrick Lesec, 2003 ($48.99) - Parker: 94! “This blockbuster was aged 80% in wood and 20% in tank. A blend of 78% Grenache, 20% Mourvèdre, and a dollop of Cinsault, it offers up huge aromas of garrigue, ground pepper, kirsch, and roasted meats. Dark plum/purple-colored, heady, alcoholic, full-bodied, and enormously proportioned, this 2003 is meant for true hedonists.” This wine needs a few more years of aging.
Alain Jaume Domaine Grand
Veneur Châteauneuf du Pape “Les Origines,” 2003
($54.99) - Wine Spectator 94:
“Jaw-dropping raspberry ganache, plum fruit, cocoa, tar, hoisin sauce, and
mineral notes are flamboyantly displayed, while an intense tarry, minerally
drive extends the finish. Best from 2007-2025” Robert Parker 95:
“Dazzling stuff and one of the vintage’s top efforts. Deep purple to the rim
with a gorgeous nose of blackberry liqueur intermixed with blueberries, smoke,
licorice, roasted meats, and herbs, the wine has fabulous concentration, a
multilayered mid-palate, and a blockbuster finish with sweet tannin and plenty
of opulence. Drink it from 2006-2018. For the last 7-8 years, this has been
one of the best-run estates in Châteauneuf du Pape. Alain Jaume and his two
capable sons, Sebastien and Christophe, continue to propel Domaine Grand Veneur
into the upper echelon of quality. They also offer an impressively well-made
negoçiant line of wines (under the name Alain Jaume). The hallmarks of the
Grand Veneur wines include their extraordinary purity of flavor and impeccable
balance. Moreover, they have kept prices remarkably fair.”
Additional
older vintages and rarities can be found at our Oldies
But Goodies page. Other Domaine Brana, Irouleguy, 1995 ($23.99) - Where? Irouleguy is the extreme south west part of France. Who? Made by the consulting wine maker at Chateau Petrus!!! Serious and impressive in a somewhat rustic style! A blend of Petit Courbu, Gros Manseng, Cabernet Sauvignon and Tannat grapes. Alphonse Mellot Sancerre Rouge “La Damoiselle,” 2003 ($94.99) - So there’s this guy who keeps hitting his head against the wall. Why? “Because it feels so good when I stop.” We hit our heads against a wall when we knowingly buy a wine that will be difficult to sell either because it is unusual, expensive, or both. But it is so good that we accept the challenge. This is a very expensive red wine from a region known for its whites. Add the fact that it is 100% Pinot Noir, a varietal associated only with Burgundy in France. Made from 60-year old vines, this deeply colored wine is rich, concentrated, and very serious. It is not overpriced!
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