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*Angels’ Share Wines - Look for this name! We are bringing in some very special California wines in limited quantities. Angels’ Share Wines is a company founded by Mark Snyder, a sound expert who designs the acoustics for several well known rock groups. Always passionate about wine, Mark was introduced by some of his celebrity contacts to Bob Foley and a few other wine makers who introduced him to some of the small “garage” wineries in Napa Valley. He also met several cult winemakers who, in addition to their regular jobs, make high quality, limited production wines. Think winemakers and vineyards associated with such prestigious wineries as Behrens & Hitchcock, Bryant Family, Turley, Tofanelli, Stags’ Leap Winery, Colgin, Caymus, Duckhorn, Grace, Whitehall Lane, Vineyard 29, and Montelena! Cabernet and Cabernet Blends Vixen Lake County Cabernet Lot 6, 2004 ($13.99) - The X Winery is one of those California concepts that leave the rest of us scratching our heads. It is actually two wineries in one: X Winery and Amicus Cellars. The latter makes expensive Napa Valley wines, while the former makes value wines under several different labels from numerous sources. The wines bottled under the Vixen label are terrific. The Cabernet shows lots of fruit, obvious oak, and good varietal character in a surprisingly full-bodied style. Vixen Brunette Lot 101 ($13.99) - The X Winery is one of those California concepts that leave the rest of us scratching our heads. It is actually two wineries in one: X Winery and Amicus Cellars. The latter makes expensive Napa Valley wines, while the former makes value wines under several different labels from numerous sources. The wines bottled under the Vixen label are terrific. The Brunette is also a wine with a lot of fruit and some obvious oak. It is a very solid blend of Cabernet, Syrah, Merlot, Petit Sirah, and Grenache. Bliss Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, 2003 ($10.99) - The Cab also has good depth of fruit with flavors of ripe berries, black currant, and spice. With slightly more stuffing than the Merlot, it will stand up to hearty beef, pork, and Italian dishes. The 2003 was just released, but the 2002 won five medals at various competitions. Bliss Vineyards - Good California wines at this price are rare. These are real wines from a specific winery and a specific AVA (Mendocino); they are not generic “California” wines! In 1943 Irv Bliss bought a 450-acre Mendocino property consisting of 60 acres of grapes and figs, but most of the land was used for raising livestock. By the 1970s, Irv was harvesting over 100 acres of mostly Cabernet and Zinfandel. He purchased more land and planted Chardonnay, Petite Sirah, Sauvignon Blanc, and Chenin Blanc, as well as additional acreage of Cab and Zin. Today, the property totals almost 600 acres of grapes. Marriage brought the Brutocao and Bliss families together, and Brutocao Cellars began making wine in 1991. The majority of the grapes are sold to major Sonoma and Napa wineries such as Sterling, Sebastiani, Honig, and Hess! High Note Cabernet Sauvignon, Paso Robles, 2005 ($12.99) - An attractive, reasonably well-balanced, early-drinking wine with medium fruit and enough structure to give it some grip. Made by Alison Crowe. Alison has been both a custom crush provider and client winemaker with California’s Bonny Doon Vineyard and Byington Vineyard & Winery, and Bodegas Salentein in Argentina. Alison is currently the winemaker for Plata Wine Partners, LLC and provides consulting and custom winemaking services to nationally distributed wineries as well as hot startup brands. Hahn Estate Meritage Red, 2005 ($15.99) - This stylish wine is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc. It’s not a big, powerful wine, but it is a gentle, pleasing, and flavorful wine for current drinking. Moon Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma, 2005 ($15.99) - This may be one of the best Cabernets available under $20 with beautifully rendered, fully ripened fruit in a medium- to medium full-bodied format. Blended with Merlot, Cab Franc, and Petit Verdot, this Cab has a very pleasing texture and is structured for near-term enjoyment. There is none of the “cheap” taste that afflicts so many California wines at this price. This superb value comes from the old Carmenet winery which is located nearly 2000 feet up on the Sonoma side of Mount Veeder. The winery, part of the Chalone Wine Group, was sold to Diageo (a huge wine and spirits concern that owns Hennessy, Tanqueray, Gordon’s, Baileys, Sambuca Romana, Smirnoff, Jose Cuervo, Captain Morgan, Moet, BV, and Sterling among many other brands) last year. Some excellent wines from organically grown estate fruit, and these very good wines using purchased fruit from sustainably farmed Sonoma vineyards, are still made at the winery, but the Carmenet label no longer exists. Moondance Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa, 2005 ($16.85) - The broker who made the Chardonnay available to us also had several Cabernets. They were all quite impressive, but this one stood out because of its structure, silky tannins, and surprisingly lengthy finish. Lions Ridge Meritage, 2004 ($19.99) - This is the companion to a lovely unoaked
Chardonnay. Clos LaChance created this wine in a
Bordeaux style using all five Bordeaux varietals but predominantly Cabernet
Sauvignon and Merlot. Hand-picked and hand-sorted grapes were fermented and aged
for 16 months in 30% new oak. Only 1013 cases were produced. The aroma shows red
plum and cherry fruit with dried tobacco, cedar and a touch of smoke, while the
flavors display black plum, currant, dried sage, and a hint of earth. Silky
tannins are evident on the finish. The Cabernet and Merlot wines under the Clos
LaChance label come from the same vineyard as this Meritage, and they received
press accolades as good values - better than many big name California wines at
twice the price! Coyote Crest Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley, 2003 ($19.99) - One of the best Cabernet values we've come across in a long time, this estate-bottled wine was made from hillside and mountain top, hand picked vines. The winery uses gravity feed to ensure gentle handling. After malolactic fermentation, the wine was aged for 26 months in new French and American barrels. It was bottled unfined and unfiltered. This is a big wine with an intense expression of Cabernet fruit. The bouquet shows elements of blackberry, anise, and tobacco. Less than 220 cases of this gem were produced. We also carry their very limited Syrah and Merlot/Cab blend. Bruce Wayne Briana’s Blend Cabernet, Napa Valley, 2005 ($23.99) – Holy cow, Batman! This exceptional red is from a winery owned by Bruce Walker and Wayne Hansen (of Starry Night fame). This wine is dedicated to friend and colleague Briana Kovacs. Sourced from an extraordinary high-elevation vineyard (we suspect it’s Viader!), this 62% Cab Sauvignon and 38% Cab Franc blend is an ultra-limited production (only 788 cases) made by talented wine-makers Bill & Dawnine Dyer. Bill was the cellar master and/or winemaker for 20 years at Sterling and consulted for Marimar Torres and Frogs’ Leap. Dawnine was the winemaker at Dom. Chandon for 25 years! Meritage of this caliber generally sells for much more. Aged in 100% French oak for one year, this layered, dense, and complex wine combines the best flavor aspects of the Cabernet-family varietals. Deep ruby red in color, full-bodied with rich flavors of blackberry, black cherry, plum, vanilla, and spicy oak, its deep fruit notes intermingle with fine tannins. Well balanced to enjoy over the near term, it is long and smooth on the finish. Briana’s Blend pairs beautifully with grilled flank steak, BBQ ribs, grilled vegetables, and cheeses. Moondance Cellars Napa Cabernet Sauvignon “Special Select,” 2003 ($24.99) - Our Moondance regular Cabernet is quite good for $15, but this is a remarkable wine. It is easily the equal of Cabs at $30 and more. Lush, ripe fruit pairs with nice oak character and sufficient structure to make a richly flavored wine that is enjoyable now. SOLD OUT. WAITING FOR NEXT SHIPMENT. Franciscan Oakville Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, 2004
($24.99) - Here is a charming, straight forward Cab with espresso, chocolate,
mocha, and licorice character. Medium in body and round in texture, it will be
very appealing as it softens over the next few months. Franciscan was founded in
1972 by a group of San Franciscan lawyers and doctors, but they soon sold it to
Raymond Duncan and Justin Meyer who also owned Silver Oak. Duncan and Meyer sold
Franciscan to the Peter Eckes Company of Germany in 1978, but they retained a
vineyard parcel for Silver Oak, and Meyer stayed on as president of Franciscan.
Agustin Huneeus, a Chilean exile who had built Concha y Toro, took over in 1985.
Franciscan uses the Estancia label for its Alexander Valley fruit and the
Franciscan label for its Napa wines. Winemaker Janet Myers (no relation)
previously worked at BV, Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, and Louis Martini. Powers Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, WA ($26.99/3-liter box) - At the equivalent of $6.75 per bottle (the bottles actually sell for $14), this is an unbelievable value. IT IS GOOD WINE IN A BOX! Soft, generous, and a pleasure to drink, it is the perfect red for the summer. Rodney Strong Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley, 2003 ($24.99) - This terrific Cabernet was made from a few barrels of wine that were left over when the final blend for Rodney Strong’s 2003 Symmetry was completed. The quantity is obviously very limited, but this is a very serious wine that is worth substantially more than its price. Aged in oak for 18 months, it features bold fruit aromas and flavors centered on red plum and boysenberry with a rich, mouth filling texture and soft tannins. It should develop nicely for another 2-4 years. Ortman Family Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa, 2002 ($27.99) - The grapes for this wine came from five vineyards in the Howell Mountain district (primarily the White Cottage Vineyard). This complex Cab (8% Merlot) is still softening, but it already shows some age-related nuances. With coriander and nutmeg adding to the beautiful Cabernet fruit flavors, this is a solid value. Art School Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, Napa Valley, 2004 ($29.99 net) - Our California connection has scored a coup with this reserve wine. It comes from a famous St. Helena winery that will release this same wine under its own label (for $65 - $70!) early in 2008. An extremely promising blend of 92% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Cab Franc, and 3% Petit Verdot, it spent 18 months in French oak and was lightly fined and filtered. This young wine still needs some cellaring, but it has evolved dramatically in the few months we have carried it. I hope you know by now that I don’t hype a wine unless I really believe in it. I believe in this one! My suggestion is to buy a case for $360 (or half a case for $180), throw it in the basement, and then smile when others pay $650-$750 for a case under the winery label! Our allotment is dwindling.*Angels’ Share: Esca Cabernet Sauvignon, 2004 ($29.99) - Another great Cabernet from Angels’ Share! Esca means ‘allurement’ in Italian, and this alluring wine was made by Anna and Mario Monticelli who met at UC Davis while earning their degrees in Viticulture and Enology. Anna worked at Chateau Cheval Blanc in St. Emilion and Bryant Family in Napa, while Mario interned at Antinori in Tuscany before they began making their own wines (Cab and Syrah) in Napa. This is their third vintage using grapes grown on the western hillsides of St. Helena in the Spring Mountain AVA. Only 800 cases of this 100% Cabernet were produced. The wine spent 21 months in French oak. It is dark, rich, and concentrated. The nose reveals ripe currant and blackberry aromas intermixed with hints of cedar and sage. The wine is well structured with good acidity and soft tannins. And yes, Virginia, it comes with a screw-cap! *Angels’ Share: Tamber Bey Vineyards Two Rivers Cabernet, 2004/2005 ($34.99) - Don’t worry that this is a 2004; it is already delicious! Tamber Bey is an exciting new project using vineyards owned by Barry and Carol Waitte, vineyard management by Josh Clark, and the immense wine making talent of Thomas Brown who began at Turley and also consults with Outpost, Chiarello, Shrader, and Nicholson Ranch. Only 600 cases were produced from 80% Cabernet and 20% Merlot grapes grown east of Yountville in Napa Valley. Most Angels’ Share wines are expensive, but this is not. It’s very serious for its price (www.tamberbey.com). *Angels’
Share: Five Vinters Wines Cabernet Sauvignon, 2004
($34.99) - The name refers to the fact that Krisi Raymond is a fifth generation
winemaker. Her Great-Grandfather was Jacob Beringer (yes that Beringer).
Her father is Roy Raymond (yes that Raymond). Krisi obviously grew up
around wine production and has a real passion for producing high quality,
varietally correct wines at extraordinary values. Only 620 cases of this 100%
Cabernet were produced from grapes sourced mostly in St. Helena and Rutherford.
Joel’s tasting notes: “Wow! Great value!! Soft, open knit, but deep and
rich. Fleshy and sexy.”
Mount Eden Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon,
2001 ($35.99) - The Salvestrin Cabernet described
below is the kind of Cab that gets big scores, but MEV’s Cab is the kind I
prefer to drink. This classy wine has fine depth of fruit but a surprisingly low
12.8% alcohol. Thus it avoids the overbearing heaviness of most modern
California Cabernets.
Murietta’s Well Meritage, 2004 ($37.99) – Before Napa and
Sonoma became famous, the Livermore Valley, which lies east of San
Francisco, was the most highly esteemed California wine growing area.
French immigrant Louis Mel founded a winery and named it Murrietta’s
Well after the infamous, larger than life desperado Joaquin Murrieta who
rustled cattle and horses from wealthy ranchers during the Gold Rush era.
Lore has it that he and his men often stopped to water their horses at an
artesian well. Mel bought land surrounding the well and built a
gravity-flow winery into the hillside. Through his wife’s childhood
connections with the Marquis de Lur-Saluces, he imported cuttings of
Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon from the famous Chateau d’Yquem and
red Bordeaux cuttings from the commune of Margaux. Archipel, 2002 ($39.99 net) - Like an
archipelago rising from the sea, the hillside vineyards of Archipel Winery rise
above the valley fog on both the Sonoma and Napa sides of the Mayacamas
Mountains. Made from hand-picked and hand-sorted grapes, this wine was aged for
14 months in a French and American oak barrels. Rich and forward with deep
Cabernet flavors, it is lush and nicely balanced. Parker 90: “Fashioned from
100% estate fruit grown in both Napa and Sonoma counties. A blend of 49%
Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot, and 18% Cabernet Franc, it is a fruit-forward,
elegant offering (a small amount of American oak is used in its upbringing)
revealing pretty, chocolate, smoky, black cherry, currant, and plum
characteristics. Heady and succulent, it is ideal for drinking over the next
[3-4] years.” And it comes with a screwcap!
Amazing Grace Cabernet Sauvignon, Spring Mountain
District, 2004 ($49.99 reg., $39.99 net intro price) - Amazing
Grace, how sweet the taste! This is another small production Napa Valley wine
that we have discovered. It will easily compete with Cabs costing $10 to $20
more. It is a layered, complex wine of spice, along with ripe, black
currant fruit and a touch of caramel oak and mint. It has enough ripe tannin for
the long haul, but enough fruit to enjoy now. Beautiful! Spring Mountain is
known for concentrated mountain-grown fruit. The grapes must be handpicked on
steep, east-facing terraces of the Mayacamas Mountains. An afternoon breeze from
San Pablo Bay cools the vines in the afternoon; days are cooler and nights are
warmer than on the valley floor. The growing season is long, ranging from
mid-March to as late as November. Spring Mountain District’s wine-growing
history reaches back as far as the Civil War. By 1874, the legendary Beringer
brothers had a vineyard planted here. Beringer still has vineyards here as do
Barnett, Behrens & Hitchcock, Cain, Fife, and other highly regarded
wineries. Dyer Vineyard Napa Valley Cabernet, 2003 ($39.99
net) and Diamond Mountain Cabernet, 2003 ($69.99 net) - “Thence
comes it that my name receives a brand and almost thence my nature is subdued to
what it works in, like the Dyer’s hand...” - William Shakespeare, Sonnet
III. Bill and Dawnine Dyer are experienced wine makers. Bill was the Cellar
master for nine years and the Winemaker for eleven years at Sterling Vineyards.
He also consulted for Marimar Torres and Frogs’ Leap among other wineries.
Dawnine was the Winemaker at Domaine Chandon for 25 years! This is the second
release of their Napa Cab, which is a blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon from
Napa’s Coombsville/Tulocay region and 20% Cabernet Franc from Spring Mountain.
Only 380 cases were made. This is the 8th vintage of the Diamond Mt. Cab. The
blend is 84% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Cab Franc, and 5% Petit Verdot from
their home vineyard. Only 420 cases were produced. These are fabulous,
well balanced wines with relatively modest alcohol levels of 13.6% and 13.8%
respectively. Limited.
White
Cottage Cabernet Sauvignon “Risa,” 2004 ($44.99) and Howell Mountain Cabernet
Sauvignon, 2003 ($59.99)
- White Cottage is the labor of love of Dennis
and Adele Johns. As their winemaker, Dennis helped put St. Clement on the map
until Beringer bought them out and brought in a corporate mentality than Dennis
could not abide. Both of these wines are fine examples of Napa Cabernet with
voluptuous fruit. The Howell Mountain. version has even more depth and
complexity than the Risa which comes from the Valley floor. Howell Mountain
wines typically have deep, almost black color, black fruit aroma, and minerality.
This wine has concentrated, forward fruit flavors of blackberry and cassis, a
hint of licorice, complexity, and a long and lingering finish. Quite supple and
enjoyable now, it has sufficient ripe tannin structure for a few more years of
aging.
Judd’s Hill Cabernet
Sauvignon, 2003 ($45.99) - Judd is the son of Art (a former LA architect)
and Bunnie Finkelstein, who founded Napa Valley’s Whitehall Lane winery in
1979. The growth of Whitehall Lane to over 30,000 cases annually was gratifying,
but Art and Bunny ultimately chose a quieter, less pressured life; they sold
Whitehall Lane and with Judd founded the much smaller (3000 cases maximum)
Judd?s Hill east of the Silverado Trail in the town of Napa. A blend of 88% Cab
Sauvignon, 7% Merlot, and 5% Cab Franc - all hillside fruit from four different
vineyards - this small production wine (1000 cases) spent 20 months in French
oak (which previously held Chardonnay for only nine months) with a few new
French and American barrique for depth. Of 68 Napa Cabs recently reviewed by the
San Francisco Chronicle, this wine
received two stars and was among only 14 that were recommended.
Salvestrin Cabernet Sauvignon “Salvestrin Estate Vineyard,” 2002 ($47.99) - Wine Spectator 93: “Ripe, structured and
notably complex. The currant, blackberry, black cherry and plum flavors are
joined by hints of anise and espresso. The tannins are rich and supple, and the
finish repeats the fruit and pepper themes. Best from 2007 through 2013.” The
St. Helena property was first planted in the 1860s by Napa Valley pioneer George
Crane. Italian immigrant John Salvestrin purchased the historic Crane ranch in
1932. John’s grandson, Richard, and Richard’s wife, Shannon, are the current
proprietors. All the grapes grown on the property were sold to local wineries
until 1994 when Kent Barthman was hired as a winemaker. Space was rented at a
nearby winery until their own winery was completed in 2002.
Heitz Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa, 2002 ($48.99) - Joe Heitz was one of the great
pioneers of Napa Valley. When he opened Heitz Wine Cellars in 1961, there were
fewer than 20 wineries in Napa. Today there are close to 400! Joe made some of
the best Cabernets around and never changed his style to suit the latest
fashion. Nor did he cow-tow to the wine critics; in fact he once threw Robert
Parker out of the winery! Joe died in 2000, but the winery is still a family
affair. Daughter Kathleen Heitz Myers is the president of the winery. Son David
Heitz began working with his father in the early 1970s and became the head
winemaker in the early 1990s. With many serious
wineries already releasing their 2004s, Heitz has just released its 2002! This
delicious 100% Cab was aged for one year in American oak tanks and two years in French
Limousin barrique. It is brighter in fruit and more approachable than is typical
for Heitz wines upon release. The gorgeous varietal flavors are just exquisite
and impeccably balanced with soft, complex tannins. Its ripe fruit makes it
delicious to drink now, but it will clearly develop with a few more years in the
bottle. This
wine comes from all four of their vineyard sources (although primarily
from Inkgrade). The 2002 Bella Oaks did not show as well,
but the 2002 Martha’s Vineyard, which just arrived, was
stunning and will also drink well young.
B.R.
Cohn Cabernet Sauvignon “Olive Hill,” 2001
($49.99) - This is the big brother of the Silver
Label Cab.
Unusual for California wines today, it is made from 100% Cabernet Sauvignon.
All-new French oak rounds out the package. Perhaps it’s the power of
suggestion, but I detect olive notes as well as eucalyptus in this smooth,
refined wine. Wine Spectator 90: “Impressive for its pure, ripe currant, plum,
and blackberry flavors and also its elegance and grace, with supple texture and
a complex array of flavors, finishing with a burst of ripe, juicy flavors,
integrated tannins, and a touch of cedary oak. Drink now through 2010.”
Robert Sinsky Cabernet Sauvignon “Vandal Vineyard,” 2004
($52.95) - Rob Sinsky has been making wine for twenty years. His wife,
Maria, has been with him for ten of those. An acclaimed chef in her
own right, coming from PlumpJack in San Francisco, Maria runs the
kitchen at Sinsky. Sinsky Vineyards has been certified organic since
2001 and is working toward biodynamic certification. The Vandal
vineyard lies in the Los Carneros-Napa district and surrounds Rob and
Maria’s home. “Some of the thought process that went into our
decision to become all-organic started with the fact that our home is
in the vineyard. It seemed irresponsible to be using
industrial-strength chemicals when we lived so close,” says Rob.
Being organic, they don’t have to worry about the chemical residue
from spraying and the effects on them and their children, Ella, 7; and
Lexi, 5. Made from 100% Cabernet Sauvignon grapes, this is a big
impact wine that maintains good balance. There is more than enough
fruit to balance the oak.
The
Terraces Napa Cabernet Sauvignon, 2002 ($52.99) - The Terraces is
best known for their Zinfandel, but they also make a mere 280 cases of
Cabernet. (They sell the bulk of their grapes to such wineries as
Etude.) The vineyard is literally terraced. There are two rows of
vines on each level of the terrace, Cabernet on the rocky inside and
Zinfandel on the more dirt-filled outside. This is super stuff: big,
spicy, and rich with beautifully delineated Cabernet fruit. A slight
tightness argues for decanting or another year or two of aging. *Angel’s Share: Tamber Bey Cabernet
Sauvignon, Oakville (Napa), 2003 ($54.99) - If you like Caymus, you’ll
love this wine! This is the big brother of the Tamber Bey Two Rivers Cab that
we’ve had for a few months. The vineyard is owned by the Waitte family.
Vineyard manager Josh Clark and winemaker Thomas Brown teamed up to make this
excellent wine. It spent 18 months in 50% new French oak. A miniscule 300 cases
were produced!
*Angels’ Share: Hestan Vineyards Meyer Cabernet Sauvignon,
Napa, 2004 ($57.99) - Hestan Vineyards is located in eastern Napa at the base of
Okell Hill. It was purchased and planted in 1996 by Hong Kong-born Stanley and
Helen Cheng. Mr. Cheng is the chairman of Meyer Corp., a manufacturer of
cookware brands such as Farberware, Circulon, and KitchenAid. Their flagship “Estate”
wine is a mere $110 per bottle. The rejected grapes go into this “Meyer”
bottling, but the difference between the two wines is very slight. This wine
spent 18 months in 50% new French oak. Winemaker Mark Herold also makes the
wines at Merus, Buccella, and Harris. Wine Spectator 92: “Firm, intense, and
concentrated, with complex blackberry, tobacco, cassis, and anise flavors that
are tightly wound and sharply focused, finishing with chewy tannins and a
delicious burst of fruit. Best from 2008-2012.” It is a gorgeous wine made
from very low yields, and it was neither fined nor filtered.
*Angels’
Share: Schrader Cellars Double Diamond Mayacamas Cabernet Sauvignon, 2003 ($58.99)
- Fred Schrader gained fame in the wine world in 1992 when he and Ann Colgin
produced the Colgin Schrader Cabernet from Herb Lamb Vineyard on Howell
Mountain. Fred’s small vineyard on the Sonoma side of the Mayacamas Mountain
range is planted exclusively to Clone 337 of Cabernet Sauvignon. With only 225
cases produced, this wine shows the incredible concentration and balance of
mountain-grown fruit. A winner! St. Helena Winery Cabernet
Sauvignon “Séduire,” 2005 ($70, “intro” net price: $59.99) -
Peter and Paulette Story are passionate about their wines and are painstaking in
their approach to grape growing and wine making. Unlike many boutique wineries,
St. Helena is a true estate winery, meaning that the grapes are grown, crushed,
fermented, barreled, and aged at the estate. Voted the “Best Boutique
Winery” (2000 cases or less) by VinoCritic.com, the Story’s winery is
fortunate to have the services of Sarah Gott (Joel’s wife - no, the other
Joel) as their consultant. Séduire (the French verb “to seduce”) is, as the
name implies, a seductive wine despite its ample size. A blend of 88% Cabernet
Sauvignon with Merlot, Petite Sirah, and Petit Verdot, it was cold soaked,
fermented with French yeast, aged for 20 months in all new French barrique, and
bottled unfined and unfiltered. This big wine will develop over the next few
years, but it is balanced enough to enjoy now. Built on crème de cassis, mocha,
cherry, currant, and blueberry flavors, it has a silky tannin structure and a
long, smooth finish. Production: 418 cases.
Larkmead
Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, 2004 ($59.99) - Parker 93: “The
stunning 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon Estate (a 3,650-case blend of 92% Cabernet
Sauvignon and the rest Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot) reveals a Pauillac-like creme
de cassis note interwoven with notions of charcoal, incense, scorched earth,
and graphite. Powerful, full-bodied, and opulent, it is a rich, elegant, pure
Cabernet with layers of fruit. It can be enjoyed over the next 15+ years.” Justin Isosceles, Paso Robles, 2003 & 2004 ($59.99) - The 2001 Isosceles was one of the best wines at a recent tasting of 2001 Cabs that I had the fortune to attend. I haven't tasted these, but Justin has been on a roll. Very limited. Murphy-Goode Terra a Lago #4 Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley, 2002 ($59.99) - Tim Murphy, Dale Goode, and Dave Ready began this three-family partnership in 1985. Only 40 barrels of this very limited, very exciting wine were made from Val Peline’s #4 block at Terra a Lago in the southern end of Alexander Valley. Deep and charming, it has aromas of black cherry and cocoa, deep, rich, chewy tannins, flavors of roasted coffee and blackberry creme, and a finish that doesn’t stop. This is a wine that will be great young, but awesome with time! Anderson’s Conn Valley Eloge, 2001 (regularly $75, sale: $59.99 net) - Todd and Ronene Anderson first planted grapes in 1984 just east of St. Helena where Conn Creek flows out of Howell Mountain. Separated from the Napa Valley floor by a north/south running ridge, the world-renowned wineries of Joseph Heitz and Joseph Phelps are located on the west side of this ridge, and Anderson’s vineyards are on the east side at an elevation of 400 feet. The vineyards not only enjoy Napa Valley’s superb microclimate but share the same soil as the famous Rutherford Bench. Parker: 92 “Readers looking for a fragrant St. Emilion-like California red should check out the Anderson’s Éloge cuvée. The 2001’s (65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Cab Franc, 5% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot) saturated plum/purple color is followed by copious quantities of jammy blackberry and cassis fruit with notions of cedar wood, tobacco, chocolate, and dried herbs. The full-throttle bouquet is accompanied by medium- to full-bodied flavors with brilliant balance as well as purity, and a long, persistent finish. This wine can be drunk now or cellared for another 12-15 years.” Limited. Only 800 cases were produced.O'Shaughnessy Howell Mountain Cabernet, 2003 ($64.99) - Very limited. Not tasted, but previous vintages were very special.
Behrens
and Hitchcock Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa, 2000 ($64.99/750ml,
$129.99/Magnum) - Bob Parker said it best: “The Les Behrens and Bob
Hitchcock consortium, a hippy-like commune includes the two principals, their
wives, assorted friends, and an irrepressible Jack Russell terrier. There is a
startling authenticity as well as simplicity to their work, a refreshing
candor about the quality of what they achieve (always more humble/conservative
than the actual wines produced), and a general philosophy of ‘let’s do the
right thing.’ My favorite of the 2000 Cab cuvées is the Napa (91-93).
With 8% Cab Franc, 8% Merlot, and 3% Petite Verdot, it boasts a saturated
color in addition to gorgeous aromas of acacia, flowers mixed with licorice,
crème de cassis, smoke, and minerals. Ripe, full-bodied, and sweet, it is a
terrific (wine). Supple tannin and admirable fleshiness suggest early
accessibility as well as 12-15 years of aging.”
Serdonis
Cabernet Sauvignon, Howell Mountain, 2001 ($75) - This blend of 86% Cab Sauv,
12% Cab Franc, and 2% Merlot shows deep mountain-grown fruit. The name is Latin
for “hard worker.” Parker 90: “Exhibits a dense color and a fresh, lively
perfume of blueberries, blackberries, flowers, lead pencil shavings, and earth.
With excellent density and richness in addition to a long finish, it is a
beautifully knit, promising Cabernet. Drink 2007-18.” The Cabernet comes from
Heitz’s Inkgrade Ranch (see above) on Howell Mountain, which is among the
highest appellations in Napa Valley. The southeastern-facing, terraced vineyards
are steep, rugged, and rock slopes. The vines struggle here and average only 2.3
tons/acre of intense, black, powerful fruit. The angular tannin and black color
of Ink Grade Cab are balanced with Merlot and Cab Franc from 30 year-old vines
in the cooler Carneros district. Only 600 cases produced. *Angels’ Share: Anomaly Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa, 2003 ($79.99) - One of California’s great red wines, only 450 cases were made from a 2.2-acre vineyard adjacent to Hayne Vineyard in western St. Helena. This is the work of Amy Aiken and Mark Porembski who are winemakers at Behrens & Hitchcock. This fabulous wine, made from Cabernet Clone 7, has it all: flavor, complexity and refinement. Its 14.2% alcohol is a little higher than the beautifully balanced 2002 was, but it's well within current norms for Napa Cabernet. Very limited. *Angels’
Share: Stanton Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, Oakville, Napa, 2003
($89.99) - Doug Stanton is one of Napa Valley’s greatest farmer/growers,
providing fruit for Caymus, Duckhorn, and others. He now sets aside some of his
best fruit which winemaker Dave Phinney turns into one of California’s best
wines. This exceptional, distinctive, and huge wine is a blend of 93% Cabernet
and 7% Petite Verdot. Dave never uses more than 20% new oak. This wine is
expensive, but it is easily the equal of some famous Napa wines that sell for
$125 - $160. Heitz Cabernet Sauvignon “Trailside Vineyard,” 1999 ($94.99) - Heitz wines are difficult to assess when young. Despite early mediocre reviews, this has blossomed into something special with a gorgeous perfume and equally compelling flavors. Parker was unimpressed in 2001: “86. Deep-colored with minty, black currant fruit aromas and sweet fruit and roundness in the mouth, but dominated by austere tannin and a hard, chalky, earthy component. It should last for a decade.” The Wine Spectator said very nice things, but 89 points is a kiss-of-death rating for a wine of this pedigree and price. “Excellent structure, with a firm, refined band of spicy currant, herb, bay leaf, and cedar. Wonderful balance and integration of flavors, with a supple texture and a long, complex finish. Now - 2009.” This is a great wine that will continue to improve. *Sherwin Family Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa, 2004 ($99.99) - We’ve been waiting for this beauty since we sold out of the 2003 Cab. Steve Sherwin is the brains (and much of the brawn) behind this venture. Mike Hirby (of Behrens & Hitchcock) is the wine maker. Approximately 720 cases of this 75% Cabernet (15% Merlot, 10% Cab Franc) were made at Steve’s innovative, gravity-flow winery on Spring Mountain. Steve and Linda Sherwin purchased the vineyard in 1996. Steve added 13 acres to the original three acres of old vines. Some of these new vines are already producing very high quality grapes (www.sherwinfamilyvineyards.com). Verité La Joie, 1999 ($125) - Tanzer 94: “60/40 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Full ruby color. Smoky aromas of currant and roasted tobacco. Lush, sweet, and rich; a huge wine with silky, utterly mouthfilling texture, but also plenty of underlying structure. Finishes with very fine tannins, superb sweetness, and lingering notes of black cherry and violet.” Very limited. Robert Parker 94! Far Niente Cabernet Sauvignon, 2004 ($125) - Although Far Niente charges outlandish prices for their wines, they really deliver in the best vintages. The 2004 vintage was relatively cool and long with no 100 degree days until early September. By waiting to harvest until after the heat spell, the fruit achieved full ripeness and flavor development. The result is a plush wine with balanced tannins and an underlying silkiness. The 2004 blend is 86% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Petit Verdot, and 4% each Cabernet Franc and Merlot. Philip Togni Cabernet Sauvignon Estate, 2004 ($115) - Parker: 94-96! “A great vintage for Togni. Glorious perfume of crème de cassis, licorice, graphite, and black olives. Full-bodied and rich with silky tannins which give it more accessibility than most young Togni Cabs.” Verite
La Joie, 2003 ($169.95) -
Parker: 95 “With a saturated dense purple color, this blend of 76%
Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, and 4% Cab Franc offers smoky, sweet scents of
lead pencil shavings, cedar, spice box, volcanic earth, black currants, and
smoke. Excellent fruit, full-bodied power, a layered texture, and an
exceptionally long finish. Drink 2009-30”
Additional older vintages and rarities can be found at our Oldies But Goodies page. Pinot Noir Madonna Estate Pinot Noir, Carneros, 2006 ($19.99) - Madonna Estate is owned by the Bartolucci Family, the third oldest winemaking family in Napa Valley. The wines were marketed as Mont St. John, but with the fourth generation becoming increasing active in the winery, the family recently switched the label to Madonna Estate. One of the nicest $20 Pinot Noirs on the market, this wine shows strawberry, cherry, and earthy varietal characteristics in a medium-bodied style with the alcohol in check. Fermentation included both whole grape clusters and crushed must. The wine was aged in French oak barrels for nine months. Fruit forward and supple, it pairs well with grilled salmon, stuffed mushrooms, polenta, and tenderloin of beef. High Note Pinot Noir, Central Coast, 2005 ($19.99) - Alison Crowe made this wine from purchased grapes. It has medium fruit, good varietal character, and is a solid value. Alison has been both a custom crush provider and client winemaker with California’s Bonny Doon Vineyard and Byington Vineyard & Winery, and Bodegas Salentein in Argentina. Alison is currently the winemaker for Plata Wine Partners, LLC and provides consulting and custom winemaking services to nationally distributed wineries as well as hot startup brands.
Freja Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley-Oregon, 2006 ($22.99) - This Pinot shows good varietal fruit and
will benefit from a few more months in the bottle. Freja was the Norse goddess
of love and fertility, the patron of crops and birth, and the symbol of
sensuality. Friday is named for her. The Freja vineyard sits on a
southwest-facing, steep slope on Chehelam Mountain at an elevation of 700-800
feet. The vines are tightly spaced (5’x7’), and yields are kept low (2.0 to
2.5 tons per acre). The high elevation assures slow ripening bringing out full
varietal character. After aging for 12-18 months in French/Oregon/Hungarian
barrique (25-35% new), this wine was bottled unfined and unfiltered. After
trying (and failing) to grow quality grapes in Vermont, Willy Gianopulos
purchased land in Oregon in 1987 and planted a vineyard in 1988. The winery was
constructed in 1998. Production is 1000 cases per year with a goal of reaching
2000 cases/year. Mary Elke Pinot Noir, Anderson Valley, 2006 ($26.99) - The excessive demand for Pinot Noir has led to a frustratingly limited availability of good Pinot Noir at an affordable price. This wine is a winner! The Elke family winery and estate vineyard are in Napa. They also grow grapes in the cool, picturesque Anderson Valley. Mary and winemaker Tom Farella share a passion for Pinot Noir. Mary believes in hand-harvesting at 23.5-24 brix, so the alcohol of this wine is well in check. Her philosophy toward wine making is one of minimal intervention. Despite a relatively short maceration and the avoidance of cold soaking the grapes before pressing, Mary gets terrific color and fruit intensity out of her grapes. This elegant, ripe, spicy, and velvety beauty is unfortunately limited. Copain Pinot Noir
L’Autumn, 2006 ($24.99) - SOLD
OUT! Wells Guthrie
worked in the northern Rhône for Chapoutier while also learning from the
legendary Jean Louis Chave. Wells returned to the U.S. to work at Turley
Wine Cellars both in the vineyards and cellar before starting his own
operation, Copain Wine Cellars. Believing that quality starts with the
vineyard, Wells buys grapes from growers who are committed to vineyard
care, clonal selections, and organic farming practices. In addition to
excellent single vineyard wines, he produces four wines (one for each
season) under Copain’s Saisons des Vins program. The L‘automne Pinot
Noir was sourced from Hein, Cerise, and Savoy vineyards - all organically
farmed in Anderson Valley. Wells uses only native yeast and bottles
without fining or filtration. This is a balanced and harmonious wine with
classic cherry fruit, a lush, soft texture, and generous Pinot Noir fruit.
Not a complex wine, it is none-the-less a delicious mouthfull. In October,
2004, Copain was named “Most Promising New Winery” in the annual Wine
Issue of Food & Wine Magazine. Capiaux Cellars Pinot Noir “Chimera,” 2006 ($33.99) is exceptional Pinot and an exceptional value. This sexy, generous wine has beautiful Pinot Noir fruit and is rich and long on the palate. Capiaux Cellars (http://www.capiauxcellars.com) produces single vineyard bottlings of Pinot Noir using traditional Burgundian techniques. Sean Capiaux, who learned his craft at Peter Michael Winery, Jordan, and Pine Ridge, produces wines that express the unique terroir of the source vineyards. Modern equipment is used but with as little intervention as possible. A minimal amount of new oak is used, typically 30%. His Pinots are aged in French oak for 10 months before being bottled unfined and unfiltered. Clos LaChance Santa Cruz Pinot Noir 2005 ($32.99) - Despite the difficulties of planting, maintaining, and harvesting mountain vineyards, the cool mountains of Santa Cruz are ideal for Pinot Noir. The abundant 2005 vintage was challenging. Winemaker Stephen Tebb ran out of tank space halfway through the harvest. Fortunately the weather turned cool, ripening slowed, and Stephen was able to literally store the grapes on the vine for several weeks until the first batch had finished fermenting. The resulting wine is one of the best Clos LaChance has produced. Technical details: hand-harvested, hand-sorted, gravity-fed transfers, open-top fermenters, punch-downs twice daily increasing to four times daily during the peak of fermentation, 14 months in 40% new and 60% used French oak sur lie (no racking), bottled unfined and unfiltered. Yes, Virginia, a lot of detail goes into making fine wine. The aromas of this complex wine include blueberry, black cherry, forest floor, mushroom, and caramel. Sweet red cherry and strawberry flavors are supplemented by cola and plum. You smoke or grill the duck, turkey, wild game, salmon, or leg of lamb, and I’ll bring the wine! Rodney Strong Pinot Noir Jane’s Vineyard Reserve, Russian River Valley, 2004 ($34.99) - Wine Enthusiast 90: “The vineyard is in a cool, southerly part of the valley. The wine is classically structured with crisp acidity and a silky mouthfeel framing rich, dry flavors of cherries, root beer, and oaky spices. It’s a lovely young Pinot to drink now for its fleshy opulence” Carmel Road Pinot Noir, Arroyo Seco, 2006
($34.99) - From the coolest section of Monterey, this is an opulent Pinot with
ripe, spicy flavors of raspberry, cherry, and cinnamon with balancing acidity
and touches of smoke and oak. Fairly Burgundian in style, it was made from
mostly the Pommard clone along with some Dijon. With less than 500 cases made,
it is very limited. Winemaker Ivan Giotenov notes, “Our Pinot Noir matures in
French oak casks for 14 months with a single racking. As Pinot Noir is a
delicate varietal, too much air exposure will diminish fruit flavors and aromas.
After aging in barrel, the lots are blended and bottled without filtration or
fining, preserving the most delicate aromatics and flavors.” Angels’ Share: Nicholson Ranch Pinot Noir Estate, 2004 & 2005 ($37.99) - This is a phenomenal Carneros Pinot for the price. Producing high-end Pinot Noir requires that everything be just right: soil, climate, moderate yields, small batches, careful handling of the grapes, and great care and experience in the winery. Only 760 cases of this wine were made from Dijon clones 113, 114, 667, and 777. Thomas Brown, an extremely talented winemaker who previously worked as assistant winemaker at Turley, shows his deft hand with this wine. It has that wonderful bouquet found only in the best Pinots. This wine is soft in texture, rich in fruit, and elegant in style. It shows Burgundian influences along with California ripeness. When just poured from the bottle, it gets better and better in the glass, so I would suggest decanting it for an hour.
Flowers
Perennial, 2005 ($39.99) - I’m usually a purist when it comes
to Pinot Noir. I suspect that many producers trying to feed the Pinot
frenzy are secretly stretching their juice by adding other grapes to the
wine. This has the advantage of lowering the cost, covering defects in a
cheap Pinot, and giving the public more fruit and color than an honest
Pinot Noir usually provides. The truth is that in almost all cases, the
delicate character of Pinot Noir is overwhelmed by anything it is blended
with. The label on this rarity honestly states that it is a blend of 85%
Pinot Noir, 13% Syrah, 1% Pinot Meunier (a very close relative of Pinot
Noir), and 1% Chardonnay (!). It doesn’t matter. This sexy, polished
wine is delicious, and it has plenty of Pinot Noir flavor. Due in the
first week of September.
Robert Mueller Pinot Noir “Emily’s Cuvée,” 2003 ($39.99)
is a new Russian River (Sonoma) release.
Mueller makes excellent Pinot, and the “Emily’s Cuvee”
has always been his best effort. It combines a
ripe, full-bodied approach with bright, layered, complex flavors that are
incredibly light on their feet. From its cassis and cherryish fruit tones in
the nose to its deep, engagingly vital flavors and its long finish, it finds a
level of refinement and grace that is uncommon.
The Emily's Cuvee came primarily from a single, well-drained, gravely vineyard
that is cooled by fog. Indigenous yeast were used to ferment most of the juice
which was aged in 50% new French barrique. The resulting wine is soft, rich,
flavorful, and long. Most producers are rushing their 2005 Pinots to market, but
here is one who waits until his wines are ready! The Wine Spectator
rated this wine 93 points, and it even made the list of the 100
best wines released in 2006. "Fragrant rose petal and crushed
raspberry aromas turn elegant and stylish on the palate, with fresh,
lively acidity and a sleek, rich aftertaste. Wonderful balance, finesse
and delicacy. Finish sails on. Drink now through 2010. 1,595 cases made."
Sanford Pinot
Noir Santa Rita Hills “La Rinconada,” 2001 ($39.99 net) - Was $58! Wine
Spectator: 89 “Elegantly styled, with rich, creamy, yet understated,
earthy berry, mineral, anise and wild berry flavors that turn delicate on the
finish. Has enough tannin and depth to cellar short-term. Drink now through
2007.” The acidity here requires food, but it’s a lot of Pinot!
Varner
Pinot Noir, 200 Bob started 24 years ago with very little knowledge, but he has learned a tremendous amount about oenology and has strong opinions on the right and wrong way to make fine wine. The right way is invariably harder, more expensive, and produces less wine. He avoids irrigation, imports only the finest French oak barrels, harvests only in the cool of early morning, and employs a severe green harvest in which he cuts off many grape bunches midseason allowing the vines to concentrate their energy into fewer grapes. The result is yields of only two tons per acre. More information can be found at www.varnerwine.com. Ken Wright Cellars 2006 Pinot Noir Release
- Located in rural Carlton, Oregon, Ken Wright Cellars produces small quantities
of some of Oregon’s best Pinot Noir from selected vineyard sites. We have a
limited quantity of the following wines. All are $49.99 per bottle.
Stephen Ross Pinot Noir ‘Stone Corral Vineyard,’ 2004 ($54.99) - This exciting, new vineyard is located in the southeastern portion of the Edna Valley where it enjoys a southeast exposure at the base of rolling hills, which protect it from breezes off the Pacific Ocean just four miles to the west. The vineyard consists of 27.45 acres developed in partnership with Talley Vineyards, of which Stephen Ross occupies 9.15 acres. It was planted in 2001 and is unique in the Edna Valley for its well-drained, sandy, loam soil. It yields a powerful wine which is quite dark in color with a “blue fruit” aroma and has ample polished tannins. It is a rich, concentrated, and velvety Pinot Noir. Despite the youth of the vineyard, Stephen Ross expects it to produce his finest Pinot Noir, and he has priced it above his other bottlings. Angel’s Share: Harmonique Pinot Noir “The Noble One,” 2003 ($54.99) - With deep color (for Pinot Noir) and fine depth of fruit, this is a fabulous Pinot from the Klindt vineyard in Mendocino’s cool Anderson Valley. David Klindt was the wine maker. Only 370 cases of this very serious wine were produced from David Bruce cuttings of Dijon clones 113, 115, 667, and 777. It shows the balance, structure, ripeness, and mouth feel of great Pinot Noir. Patton Valley Pinot Noir “Lorna Marie Cuvée,” Willamette Valley, 2004 ($65) - Patton Valley was founded by Monte Pitt and Dave Chen who caught the “Pinot fever” while attending business school in Chicago. In 1995 they purchased a 72-acre parcel in the Willamette Valley with ideal soil, exposure, and elevation. They formed Cherry Hill, LLC, the parent company of Patton Valley Vineyard as well as the Cherry Hill and Papillon labels. Monte went to work at Beaux Freres, one of Oregon’s premier Pinot Noir producers, to learn his craft. Jerry Murray signed on as vineyard manager and co-winemaker. Jerry had previously made wine in Oregon (Erath, Panther Creek), New Zealand (Martinborough, Highfield Estates), and Germany (Selbach-Oster). The 2004 LMC is Patton Valley’s most aromatic wine to date. It shows Patton Valley’s signature exotic spice in the nose along with dried flowers, cherries, pipe tobacco, and earth. In the mouth the wine is round and rich yet elegant and pretty. Red fruits, both cherry and currant, clear the way to a midpalate of spices, earth, and sweet oak. The ripe tannins linger into more red fruit on the long finish. A highly refined wine that relies more on finesse and charm than power, this is American Pinot at its best. Give it another year or two. Additional older vintages and rarities can be found at our Oldies But Goodies page.
Zinfandel Moondance Cellars Zinfandel, Napa, 2003 ($15.99) - Zinfandel is a new varietal for us under the Moondance label. Along with a few other stores in the metro area, we bring these wines in directly from California. Each batch can be different, but we pre-taste each potential wine, and so far they have been consistently good. This red Zinfandel is simply fabulous. Unlike many Zins that have alcohol levels too high (14.8% - 15.5%!) to pair well with food, this wine has balanced alcohol (13.8%) as well as beautifully fleshy fruit, a touch of oak, and a zesty, lively personality. Joel Gott Zinfandel, California, 2005 ($15.99) - Every year at this time, we receive our allotment of Gott’s California Zin. A few months later, we run out. Every year around Christmas, customers are disappointed that we have no more. Here it is. Buy a case. Or two! As usual, it’s really delicious with everything a good Zin should have: juicy fruit, lush texture, and an alcohol level that is kept in check. Joel Gott is the son of longtime California winemaker Gary Gott. Joel is married to Sarah Gott. Sarah’s resume includes winemaking duties at Joseph Phelps (1993-2001) where she was responsible for that wineries flagship bottling, “Insignia”. In 2002 Sarah left Phelps to take the reins at “Quintessa”...another “super premium” Napa proprietary Bordeaux blend. More recently, Sarah has focused her efforts on her ever-expanding line of premium “value” wines under her family's “Joel Gott” label. Angels’ Share: Five Vintners Zinfandel, 2002 ($19.99) - Krisi Raymond, the fifth generation winemaker whose wonderful Cabernet was written up last month, also makes this fine Zin. Only 989 cases were produced from 60% Napa and 40% Sonoma (Mauritson Vineyard in Dry Creek Valley) fruit. Like her Cabernet, this is a great value. Amazin Zinfandel, Russian River Valley, 2002 ($20.99) - This attractive Zinfandel is similar to the Vixen in style, but it has more depth of flavor and a longer finish. The fruit wasn’t as bright as that of the Vixen when tasted over the summer, but it is developing nicely and will make for delicious holiday drinking. Ravenswood Zinfandel “Dickerson Vineyard,” 2003
($31.99) - Stephen Tanzer: 91-92 “High-toned aromas of raspberry & eucalyptus. Lush on entry,
then silky, seamless, and highly concentrated in the middle. Terrific acidity
frames the raspberry, cedar, spice, and chocolate flavors. Finishes long and
aromatic. This will age more on its acids than on its fine tannins.” Neyers Zinfandel, "Tofanelli," 2004 ($39.99) - Neyers wines are made by Ehren Jordan. Who is Ehren Jordan? The full-time winemaker for Turley! Ehren works part-time for Bruce Neyers. He is given free reign and is turning out small lots of outstanding Zinfandel. He has great vineyard contacts and gets top grapes that are head trained and dry farmed. Ehren has turned it into a memorable wine. Lush, rich, spicy, and very rounded, it has a complex finish and will improve for 2-3 years. The wine is a revelation. The perfumed aroma is gorgeous, and the finish is very long. What’s in between ain’t too shabby. An astounding Zinfandel! Merlot Bliss Vineyards Merlot, 2004 ($10.99) - This Merlot shows surprisingly good depth of fruit. It is better than most California reds at this price. Blackcherry flavors abound, and it pairs well with roast pork, poultry, and Italian dishes. This wine has won six medals at various fairs. Bliss Vineyards - Good California wines at this price are rare. These are real wines from a specific winery and a specific AVA (Mendocino); they are not generic “California” wines! In 1943 Irv Bliss bought a 450-acre Mendocino property consisting of 60 acres of grapes and figs, but most of the land was used for raising livestock. By the 1970s, Irv was harvesting over 100 acres of mostly Cabernet and Zinfandel. He purchased more land and planted Chardonnay, Petite Sirah, Sauvignon Blanc, and Chenin Blanc, as well as additional acreage of Cab and Zin. Today, the property totals almost 600 acres of grapes. Marriage brought the Brutocao and Bliss families together, and Brutocao Cellars began making wine in 1991. The majority of the grapes are sold to major Sonoma and Napa wineries such as Sterling, Sebastiani, Honig, and Hess! High Note Merlot, Monterey, 2005 ($12.99) - An attractive, reasonably well-balanced, early-drinking wine with medium fruit and enough structure to give it some grip. Made by Alison Crowe. Alison has been both a custom crush provider and client winemaker with California’s Bonny Doon Vineyard and Byington Vineyard & Winery, and Bodegas Salentein in Argentina. Alison is currently the winemaker for Plata Wine Partners, LLC and provides consulting and custom winemaking services to nationally distributed wineries as well as hot startup brands.
Moondance Cellars Merlot, Napa,
2003
($16.85) - The new
vintage just arrived, and it shows the same fleshy, chocolate-infused character
of the 2001. As expected, it is slightly more youthful at this point, but this
excellent value will mellow out quickly and provide great enjoyment. 2002 Twomey Merlot,
Napa, 2002
($65.99) - This exceptional wine is made at Silver Oak! Parker 94:
“Even better than the 2001. A blend of 99.4% Merlot and .6% Cabernet Franc, it
is a sex pot of a Merlot. An exotic perfume of pepper, herbs, black cherries,
plums, and raspberries is accompanied by an exciting texture, a plush, fleshy
palate, and a concentrated, long, heady, moderately tannic finish. It should
improve over the next 2-3 years and last for 10-14. Very impressive! A
topflight, single-vineyard wine aged in French oak [unusual for Silver Oak].” Additional
older vintages and rarities can be found at our Oldies
But Goodies page. Others Ravenswood Icon, 2001 ($19.99) -
Wow! Not only is this a truly yummy Syrah-based wine, but the price is $4 a
bottle less than the previous vintage. This blend of 89% Syrah, 9% Grenache, and
2% Mourvedre is ripe, rich, and juicy. It’s the perfect wine for a cold winter
night by the fireplace. Ravenswood was sold to the Franciscan Estates Group, but
Joel Peterson, who is reported to have netted about $50 million in cash and
stock, is still the wine maker. Judd Petite Sirah, 2002 ($25.99) - Formerly known as a
blending grape, Petite Sirah is undergoing a small renaissance. It offers real
punch for the dollars. Bunnie and Art Finkelstein and their son Judd moved to
St. Helena in 1979 where they established the very successful Whitehall Lane
Winery with Art’s brother’s family. When Art’s brother decided to retire
in 1988, Bunnie and Art looked for a smaller venue and founded Judd’s Hill
which comprises three different hillsides overlooking Lake Hennessy about 5
miles east of St. Helena. They have had great success with their Cabernet. Under
the new “Judd” label, they have now released a Pinot Noir and a Petite Sirah.
I wasn’t impressed with the Pinot, but this Petite Sirah is great. It’s big
and juicy, but it’s not an over-the-top alcoholic monster. A melange of
berries and plum with hints of oak and black pepper fill the mouth, and it
finishes with well-tamed, ripe tannins. Shypoke Charbono, Napa, 2002 ($28.99) - Old-timers may remember the delicious Charbonos made in the 1970s by Inglenook. Charbono is unique in that the juice inside the grape is as red as the skin. As you might expect, it makes for a deeply colored, intense, chunky wine. Historically it was used as a blending grape to beef up lighter wines. This impressive wine was made from 101-year old vines! Solid wine, lots of punch. Only 280 cases were made.
Angels’
Share: Orin-Swift Cellars “Prisoner,” 2005
($34.99) - Wine
Spectator 93
"A delicious wine offering zesty wild berry, spice, and fresh tobacco,
with focused and well-structured blackberry flavors. Plush, rich, and
concentrated, with wonderful focus. Zanfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah,
Petite Sirah, and Charbono. Drink now through 2011." Petit Verdot is one of the five “approved” grapes for Bordeaux red wines and is thought to be a cousin of the Cabernet Sauvignon grape. Hugh Johnson has linked it to the Balisca vine that came from Albania via the Greeks during the height of Greek civilization. In the 16th and the first part of the 17th century, Petit Verdot produced a wine called “Cargaison” that provided a hearty drink for ships’ crews headed on extended voyages at sea. Originally planted in the marshy areas of Bordeaux, the Petit Verdot grape is known for small berries, thick skins, and a tendency to ripen late - even later than Cabernet Sauvignon. Although PV is planted by two-thirds of the Médoc cru classé, the late ripening aspect of Petit Verdot never inspired owners to plant a large portion of their vineyard to it. At the same time, the color, the tannin, and the peppery spice that Petit Verdot brought to the final blend was crucial. Many of the top wines in Bordeaux such as Lafite, Latour, Mouton, Margaux, and Léoville-Las-Cases simply won’t make their final blend without it. Petit Verdot comprises less than 1,000 acres in Bordeaux and just over 100 in California. In California, the late season warm spells provide the ripeness in these grapes that the Bordelais could never count on.
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