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American Reds

Cabernet   Merlot   Pinot Noir  Zinfandel   Others

Cabernet and Cabernet Blends
 Powers Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley, WA ($26.99/3-liter box) - At the equivalent of $6.75 per bottle (the bottles actually sell for $14), this is an unbelievable value. IT IS GOOD WINE IN A BOX! Soft, generous, and a pleasure to drink, it is the perfect casual red.

Pure Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005 ($10.99) - The X Winery is one of those California concepts that leave the rest of us scratching our heads. It is actually two wineries in one: X Winery and Amicus Cellars. The latter makes expensive Napa Valley wines, while the former makes value wines under several different labels from numerous sources. The back label reports that they are made by the Underground Winery. Go figure! The offerings under the Pure label are pure values.  The Merlot is also pleasant, if undistinguished, but the Cabernet offers more character and is a very good value.

Bliss Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, 2003 ($10.99) - The Cab also has good depth of fruit with flavors of ripe berries, black currant, and spice. With slightly more stuffing than the Merlot, it will stand up to hearty beef, pork, and Italian dishes. The 2003 was just released, but the 2002 won five medals at various competitions. Bliss Vineyards - Good California wines at this price are rare. These are real wines from a specific winery and a specific AVA (Mendocino); they are not generic “California” wines! In 1943 Irv Bliss bought a 450-acre Mendocino property consisting of 60 acres of grapes and figs, but most of the land was used for raising livestock. By the 1970s, Irv was harvesting over 100 acres of mostly Cabernet and Zinfandel. He purchased more land and planted Chardonnay, Petite Sirah, Sauvignon Blanc, and Chenin Blanc, as well as additional acreage of Cab and Zin. Today, the property totals almost 600 acres of grapes. Marriage brought the Brutocao and Bliss families together, and Brutocao Cellars began making wine in 1991. The majority of the grapes are sold to major Sonoma and Napa wineries such as Sterling, Sebastiani, Honig, and Hess!

Bliss Schoolhouse Red, NV ($11.99) - Made by Brutocao Cellars and surprisingly good for the price, this fine blend of varietals has layers of ripe fruit flavors, a rich mouth feel, and smoky oak accents. The Brutocao family came to the New World and married into the Bliss family of farmers. Irv Bliss had purchased the Mendocino County property in 1943. The two families combined their passions and become grape growers and eventually winemakers. They grew and sold some terrific grapes for years before making their own wine beginning with the 1980 vintage. The Lion of St. Mark, modeled after the lion atop St. Mark’s Cathedral in Venice, is their symbol of family tradition and quality.  

High Note Cabernet Sauvignon, Paso Robles, 2005 ($12.99) - An attractive, reasonably well-balanced, early-drinking wine with medium fruit and enough structure to give it some grip. Made by Alison Crowe. Alison has been both a custom crush provider and client winemaker with California’s Bonny Doon Vineyard and Byington Vineyard & Winery, and Bodegas Salentein in Argentina. Alison is currently the winemaker for Plata Wine Partners, LLC and provides consulting and custom winemaking services to nationally distributed wineries as well as hot startup brands.

Vixen Lake County Cabernet Lot 6, 2004 ($13.99) -The X Winery is one of those California concepts that leave the rest of us scratching our heads. It is actually two wineries in one: X Winery and Amicus Cellars. The latter makes expensive Napa Valley wines, while the former makes value wines under several different labels from numerous sources. The wines bottled under the Vixen label are terrific. The Cabernet shows lots of fruit, obvious oak, and good varietal character in a surprisingly full-bodied style. 

Vixen Brunette Lot 101 ($13.99) - The X Winery is one of those California concepts that leave the rest of us scratching our heads. It is actually two wineries in one: X Winery and Amicus Cellars. The latter makes expensive Napa Valley wines, while the former makes value wines under several different labels from numerous sources. The wines bottled under the Vixen label are terrific. The Brunette is also a wine with a lot of fruit and some obvious oak. It is a very solid blend of Cabernet, Syrah, Merlot, Petit Sirah, and Grenache.

12-Gauge Cabernet 2005 ($14.99) - Gauge Wines are the NRA’s answer to us effete wine snobs. The wines are crafted by two hunters (John and Bjorn, one of whom grew up in Napa Valley) and a winemaker (Trent, whose father founded Livingston Vineyards and who learned to make wine from LV’s first winemaker, Randy Dunn). According to the label, these wines aren’t inspired by the meals you cook; they are inspired by the meals you catch. But you don’t have to be a hunter to enjoy these wines. The Cab is smooth, bold, and inspired by that slab of venison on the table calling for a sharper knife. Cabernet Sauvignon has long been favored as the drink of choice with a juicy steak. It’s a meaty wine for a meaty meal whether hunted or “bagged” at the supermarket.

The Girls in the Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005 ($16.99) - So who are the girls, and what are they doing in the vineyard? Rob & Kat McDonald grow grapes and make wine both in Rob’s native Australia and in California. They pour all their resources into the quality of the wine (no advertising), use sustainable farming, use capsules of recyclable tin, and donate a portion of their profits to numerous charities. The grapes come from the Red Hills Lake County AVA northeast of Napa. This is a beautifully balanced 100% Cabernet Sauvignon wine with intense fruit and a silky texture. It was given short aging in French oak and a light fining and filtering. The girls are the vines located on a steep vineyard (2000 - 2400 ft elevation) overlooking Clear Lake in the shadow of Mt Konocti. The red, volcanic soil is riddled with obsidian that forms a deep, well drained, gravelly loam. The vineyard remains high above the morning fog and receives bright intense sunlight that is tempered by constant cooling breezes. The girls have always been sustainably farmed and are now undergoing certification for organic status.  

Peters & Pickford Napa Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005 ($16.99) - There is no Peters, and there is no Pickford, but this made-up name is a sign of the times. The recession has dampened demand for the better grapes in California. While we’re not yet seeing a glut, there is more quality juice available to brokers who purchase excess wine from wineries, blend it, and bottle it under their own label. This gutsy Cabernet is also from Napa and shows how crucial location is. I tasted two other P&P Cabernets, one from Paso Robles and the other from Sonoma. Both are less expensive than this Napa wine, but both tasted “cheap” to me. The Napa bottling is excellent with good depth of clean, Cabernet fruit and some oak nuances. These three wines are fine values.

Rutherford Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa, 2006 ($18.69) - From a certified organic vineyard, this is a solid Napa Cabernet and a terrific value. It shows fleshy, ripe fruit and a nice amount of oak. Steaks on the grill anyone? Rutherford Ranch (formerly Round Hill) was started in the late 1970s by Ernie and Virginia Van Asperen. Upon their retirement, long-time shareholders Marko and Theo Zaninovich acquired the winery. Winemaker Steve Rueda was the winemaker at Kenwood for five years.

Lions Ridge Meritage, 2004 ($18.69) - This is the companion to a lovely unoaked Chardonnay. Clos LaChance created this wine in a Bordeaux style using all five Bordeaux varietals but predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Hand-picked and hand-sorted grapes were fermented and aged for 16 months in 30% new oak. Only 1013 cases were produced. The aroma shows red plum and cherry fruit with dried tobacco, cedar and a touch of smoke, while the flavors display black plum, currant, dried sage, and a hint of earth. Silky tannins are evident on the finish. The Cabernet and Merlot wines under the Clos LaChance label come from the same vineyard as this Meritage, and they received press accolades as good values - better than many big name California wines at twice the price!

Relativity Vineyards "Quantum Reserve," 2007 (sale price: $19.99) - Someone at the Orin Swift Winery mistakenly turned on the wrong hose and added some distilled water to a batch of the wonderful "The Prisoner" (which will be unavailable in NJ for a few years). The slightly diluted wine was declared a total loss, and the insurance company sold it to a company that bottled it under the Relativity label. Presumably never to be repeated, this is a terrific value. Yes it’s a little lighter than "The Prisoner," but this delicious blend (mostly Zin and Cab plus Syrah, Petite Sirah, etc.) still clocks in at 15.4% alcohol. Medium-bodied, spicy, long, and complex, it features berry flavors galore with an interesting cinnamon-like spice and vanilla/oak flavors as well. It has the same flavor profile as "The Prisoner" without quite the weight and viscosity.

Eagle Eye "Infatuation," 2006 ($19.99) - Napa’s Eagle Eye winery continues to make delicious wines and release them under some of the worst-looking labels imaginable. Why? I suspect that winemaker (and chef) Bill Wolf simply wants to preserve his marriage! Bill’s wife, Roxanne, is an artist whose work adorns each wine label. I can’t suggest buying these wines as collector’s items. Chateau Mouton Rothschild they are not, but the wines are very good. Using green and sustainable farming practices, Bill makes small lots (400 to 700 cases each) of six to eight different wines each year mostly from their Napa Valley vineyard. "Infatuation" is an interesting blend of 83% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Syrah, and 5% Malbec. There are hints of the Syrah on the nose, but Cabernet dominates the flavor profile with blackberry and dark cherry notes in addition to some spice notes from the Malbec. The mouthfeel is soft and silky.

Coyote Crest Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley, 2003 ($19.99) - One of the best Cabernet values we've come across in a long time, this estate-bottled wine was made from hillside and mountain top, hand picked vines. The winery uses gravity feed to ensure gentle handling. After malolactic fermentation, the wine was aged for 26 months in new French and American barrels. It was bottled unfined and unfiltered. This is a big wine with an intense expression of Cabernet fruit. The bouquet shows elements of blackberry, anise, and tobacco. Less than 220 cases of this gem were produced. We also carry their very limited Syrah and Merlot/Cab blend.

Murphy-Goode Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley, 2007 (reg $19.99; sale $15.99) - Amazingly good for the price, this wine shows great varietal character, excellent depth of fruit, and an attractive interplay between fruit and oak. It may not have the polish of its Silver Oak neighbor, but it comes surprisingly close at less than one third the price! Blended with 5% Petit Verdot (for depth), 3% Merlot (for soft sweetness), and 1% Malbec (why not?), this wine spent 18 months in 35% new, mostly American and some French oak barrels. Powerful in fruit, it is gentle in its 13.5% alcohol. The bulk of the Cabernet fruit hails from Val Peline’s Terra A Lago vineyard in the foothills of the Mayacamas Mountain range. Murphy-Goode has streamlined its offerings, and some of the grapes that went into its high-end wine now go into this Cab!

Bruce Wayne Briana’s Blend Cabernet, Napa Valley, 2005 ($23.99) – Holy cow, Batman! This exceptional red is made by Bruce Walker and Wayne Hansen (of Starry Night fame). This wine is dedicated to friend and colleague Briana Kovacs. Sourced from an extraordinary high-elevation vineyard (we suspect it’s Viader!), this 62% Cab Sauvignon and 38% Cab Franc blend is an ultra-limited production (only 788 cases) made by talented wine-makers Bill & Dawnine Dyer. Bill was the cellar master and/or winemaker for 20 years at Sterling and consulted for Marimar Torres and Frogs’ Leap. Dawnine was the winemaker at Dom. Chandon for 25 years! Meritage of this caliber generally sells for much more. Aged in 100% French oak for one year, this layered, dense, and complex wine combines the best flavor aspects of the Cabernet-family varietals. Deep ruby red in color, full-bodied with rich flavors of blackberry, black cherry, plum, vanilla, and spicy oak, its deep fruit notes intermingle with fine tannins. Well balanced to enjoy over the near term, it is long and smooth on the finish. Briana’s Blend pairs beautifully with grilled flank steak, BBQ ribs, grilled vegetables, and cheeses.

Sodaro Estate Cabernet Sauvignon "Felicity," Napa, 2003 (reg $29.99; sale $24.99) - We were very fortunate to receive a limited amount of this outstanding value. Don Sodaro and his wife, Felicity (Deedee), founded this estate in 1998. Its Coombsville location has more exposure to the moderating influence of the San Pablo Bay than does most of Napa, so the grapes ripen without reaching high sugar levels (which translate directly into high alcohol levels). The wine is made by Bill (former winemaker at Sterling) and Dawnine (former winemaker at Domaine Chandon) Dyer. The 2004 Felicity sells for $49.99 on sale. The 2003, the first vintage of Felicity, is not quite up to that quality level, but it is an absolute steal at half that price. Don’t wait.

Rodney Strong Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley, 2006 ($24.99) - This terrific Cabernet was made from a few barrels of wine that were left over when the final blend for Rodney Strong’s 2003 Symmetry was completed. The quantity is obviously very limited, but this is a very serious wine that is worth substantially more than its price. Aged in oak for 18 months, it features bold fruit aromas and flavors centered on red plum and boysenberry with a rich, mouth filling texture and soft tannins. It should develop nicely for another 2-4 years.

Eagle Eye Vineyards Voluptuous, 2005 ($24.99) - What do you get when you mix an artist and a chef together? I’m not sure, but Roxanne Wolf is the artist who designed the unusual labels, and husband Bill is the chef. Using green and sustainable farming practices, Bill makes small lots (400 to 700 cases each) of 6 to 8 different wines each year mostly from their Napa Valley vineyard. Voluptuous is defined by Webster as derived from gratification of the senses, sensuously delightful, full and shapely with indulgences in luxury, pleasure, and sensuous enjoyment. Exactly! Voluptuous features forward ripe red fruit and soft tannins. It is a blend of 61% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Cab Franc, 9% Syrah, 5% Petit Verdot, 4% Malbec, and 3% Zinfandel.  

Moondance Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon “Special Select,” Sonoma, 2004 ($29.99) - The Moondance reserve Cabernet is quite good for $16, but this is a remarkable wine. It is easily the equal of Cabs $35-$40. Lush, ripe fruit pairs with nice oak character and sufficient structure to make a richly flavored wine that is enjoyable now and will continue to soften for a year or so. Moondance is the hard work of David and Priscilla Cohen. Taught to make wine by Helen Turley and the late John Speed (of Saint Francis Winery), David began buying grapes from various vineyard sources and making the wines. Priscilla helped with marketing. This Special Select bottling is the first Moondance wine sourced from Sonoma County. The Winner at the Grand Harvest Wine Competition, it shows an elegant fragrance of vanilla and berry. It is well-balanced with a firm structure, full mouth-feel and long satisfying cherry finish. It is a blend of 75% Cab Sauvignon, with the balance consisting of Cab Franc, Merlot, Malbec, and Petit Verdot. It is very limited - Only 9 barrels (about 200 cases) were made. It is ready to enjoy, but has the structure to develop for another year or two.

*Angels’ Share: Esca Cabernet Sauvignon, 2004 ($29.99) - Another great Cabernet from Angels’ Share! Esca means ‘allurement’ in Italian, and this alluring wine was made by Anna and Mario Monticelli who met at UC Davis while earning their degrees in Viticulture and Enology. Anna worked at Chateau Cheval Blanc in St. Emilion and Bryant Family in Napa, while Mario interned at Antinori in Tuscany before they began making their own wines (Cab and Syrah) in Napa. This is their third vintage using grapes grown on the western hillsides of St. Helena in the Spring Mountain AVA. Only 800 cases of this 100% Cabernet were produced. The wine spent 21 months in French oak. It is dark, rich, and concentrated. The nose reveals ripe currant and blackberry aromas intermixed with hints of cedar and sage. The wine is well structured with good acidity and soft tannins. And yes, Virginia, it comes with a screw-cap!

Fisticuffs Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa, 2007 ($33.99) - From the same folks who make Hourglass and TuTu Pinot Gris, this terrific wine features a wacky boxing label with the following information: "RULES OF ENGAGEMENT: You cannot hit below the belt, headbutt, hold, trip, kick, wrestle, bite, spit on, or push your opponent. You cannot throw a punch whilst holding on to the ropes. If you "floor" your opponent, you cannot hit him when he is on the canvas. Jim wasn’t good with rules." I find this much more useful than the silliness about being pregnant and driving machinery. Generous and well-defined, with vanilla, baking spice, and forest-floor scents, this is a polished, richly textured, 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. A big wine at a relatively modest price. This venture is owned by Jeff Smith, the owner of Hourglass. Rob Lawson is the winemaker.

Robert Foley Vineyards "The Griffin" Red Wine, Napa, 2007 ($34.99) - Bob Foley makes some terrific Napa wines that garner great reviews. For example his $125 Claret received a 94-point rating from Robert Parker. The Griffin is a blend of leftovers from the cellar and shows the strength of that cellar. It is a prodigious blend of 43% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Petite Sirah, and 22% Merlot. "Griffin" refers to the Foley family crest in Irish heraldry which combines the strength of the lion with the soaring abilities of the eagle.

*Angels’ Share: Tamber Bey Vineyards Two Rivers Cabernet, 2004/2005 ($34.99) - Don’t worry that this is a 2004; it is already delicious! Tamber Bey is an exciting new project using vineyards owned by Barry and Carol Waitte, vineyard management by Josh Clark, and the immense wine making talent of Thomas Brown who began at Turley and also consults with Outpost, Chiarello, Shrader, and Nicholson Ranch. Only 600 cases were produced from 80% Cabernet and 20% Merlot grapes grown east of Yountville in Napa Valley. Most Angels’ Share wines are expensive, but this is not. It’s very serious for its price (www.tamberbey.com).

*Angels’ Share: Five Vinters Wines Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005 ($36.99) - The name refers to the fact that Krisi Raymond is a fifth generation winemaker. Her Great-Grandfather was Jacob Beringer (yes that Beringer). Her father is Roy Raymond (yes that Raymond). Krisi obviously grew up around wine production and has a real passion for producing high quality, varietally correct wines at extraordinary values. Only 620 cases of this 100% Cabernet were produced from grapes sourced mostly in St. Helena and Rutherford. Joel’s tasting notes: “Wow! Great value!! Soft, open knit, but deep and rich. Fleshy and sexy.”

Kristian Storey Red Table Wine, Napa, 2006 (regular $49.99; sale $39.99) - We carry several high-end wines from Peter Story’s St. Helena Winery. Peter’s son, Kristian, has also come down with a severe case of the wine bug and is now making his own wines from the family estate. He gets a little guidance from his father and from consulting winemaker Sarah Gott, but he is turning out to be a quick study and made this attractive wine mostly on his own. Unfined and unfiltered, this is a very limited (only 352 cases) blend of 36% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 29% Zinfandel, and 5% Petit Verdot. It offers luscious aromas of raspberries, wild blackberries, and pomegranate, complemented by a sweet, elegant ribbon of mocha. The palate follows the nose with a lovely mélange of red cherries, black currant, espresso, and subtle tobacco. Rich and supple, the extracted fruit characteristics are balanced by wonderful acidity, delicacy, and integrated tannins. It is already enjoyable, but it will be at its peak between 2010 and 2014.

Sodaro Estate Vineyard Felicity Cabernet 2004 (regular $59.99 sale $49.99) - Don and Deedee Sodaro moved to southern California from Chicago in 1966, but it wasn’t until 1996 that they found a magnificent property set among the hillsides and alluvial terraces of southeast Napa Valley. Their second vintage, this 2004 displays more character and depth than typically come from young vines. In fact it won a gold medal at the Finger Lakes International Competition and silver medals at the Riverside International Competition and the Tasters Guild Consumer Wine Judging. A blend of 77% Cab Sauvignon, 15% Petit Verdot, 5% Cab Franc, and 3% Malbec, it is deeply colored with rich aromas of raspberry, blackberry, and cassis. A hint of black olive and a smokey note integrate nicely with the fruit. It is luscious and full on the palate with a core of ripe tannin that suggests a wine worthy of aging. The Sodaros believe that the complexity of their wine reflects the complexity of the vineyard: 12 different blocks based on varietals, clones, and rootstocks. Dave Thompson wrote in The Napa Wine Project, "it is rare to find a winery in which all the wines fit our palate like a glove. Such is the case with Sodaro’s wines; they kept getting better with each new wine that we tried! Combine excellent terroir with a longtime husband-wife winemaking team with over 60 years experience in the Napa Valley, and you have a recipe for success. In our experience throughout Napa, it’s hard to find high-end wines at such reasonable prices. Sodaro certainly qualifies as boutique, limited production, high-end wine, and their quality to price ratio is among the best in Napa Valley."

Archipel, 2002 ($39.99 net) - Like an archipelago rising from the sea, the hillside vineyards of Archipel Winery rise above the valley fog on both the Sonoma and Napa sides of the Mayacamas Mountains. Made from hand-picked and hand-sorted grapes, this wine was aged for 14 months in a French and American oak barrels. Rich and forward with deep Cabernet flavors, it is lush and nicely balanced. Parker 90: “Fashioned from 100% estate fruit grown in both Napa and Sonoma counties. A blend of 49% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot, and 18% Cabernet Franc, it is a fruit-forward, elegant offering (a small amount of American oak is used in its upbringing) revealing pretty, chocolate, smoky, black cherry, currant, and plum characteristics. Heady and succulent, it is ideal for drinking over the next [3-4] years.” And it comes with a screwcap!

Amazing Grace Cabernet Sauvignon, Spring Mountain District, 2004 ($49.99 reg., $39.99 net intro price) - Amazing Grace, how sweet the taste! This is another small production Napa Valley wine that we have discovered. It will easily compete with Cabs costing $10 to $20 more. It is a layered, complex wine of spice, along with ripe, black currant fruit and a touch of caramel oak and mint. It has enough ripe tannin for the long haul, but enough fruit to enjoy now. Beautiful! Spring Mountain is known for concentrated mountain-grown fruit. The grapes must be handpicked on steep, east-facing terraces of the Mayacamas Mountains. An afternoon breeze from San Pablo Bay cools the vines in the afternoon; days are cooler and nights are warmer than on the valley floor. The growing season is long, ranging from mid-March to as late as November. Spring Mountain District’s wine-growing history reaches back as far as the Civil War. By 1874, the legendary Beringer brothers had a vineyard planted here. Beringer still has vineyards here as do Barnett, Behrens & Hitchcock, Cain, Fife, and other highly regarded wineries.

Dyer Vineyard Napa Valley Cabernet, 2003 ($39.99 net) and Diamond Mountain Cabernet, 2003 ($69.99 net) - “Thence comes it that my name receives a brand and almost thence my nature is subdued to what it works in, like the Dyer’s hand...” - William Shakespeare, Sonnet III. Bill and Dawnine Dyer are experienced wine makers. Bill was the Cellar master for nine years and the Winemaker for eleven years at Sterling Vineyards. He also consulted for Marimar Torres and Frogs’ Leap among other wineries. Dawnine was the Winemaker at Domaine Chandon for 25 years! This is the second release of their Napa Cab, which is a blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon from Napa’s Coombsville/Tulocay region and 20% Cabernet Franc from Spring Mountain. Only 380 cases were made. This is the 8th vintage of the Diamond Mt. Cab. The blend is 84% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Cab Franc, and 5% Petit Verdot from  their home vineyard. Only 420 cases were produced. These are fabulous, well balanced wines with relatively modest alcohol levels of 13.6% and 13.8% respectively. Limited.

White Cottage Cabernet Sauvignon “Risa,” 2004 ($39.99) and Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon, 2003 ($59.99) - White Cottage is the labor of love of Dennis and Adele Johns. As their winemaker, Dennis helped put St. Clement on the map until Beringer bought them out and brought in a corporate mentality than Dennis could not abide. Both of these wines are fine examples of Napa Cabernet with voluptuous fruit. The Howell Mountain. version has even more depth and complexity than the Risa which comes from the Valley floor. Howell Mountain wines typically have deep, almost black color, black fruit aroma, and minerality. This wine has concentrated, forward fruit flavors of blackberry and cassis, a hint of licorice, complexity, and a long and lingering finish. Quite supple and enjoyable now, it has sufficient ripe tannin structure for a few more years of aging.  

Judd’s Hill Cabernet Sauvignon, 2003 ($45.99) - Judd is the son of Art (a former LA architect) and Bunnie Finkelstein, who founded Napa Valley’s Whitehall Lane winery in 1979. The growth of Whitehall Lane to over 30,000 cases annually was gratifying, but Art and Bunny ultimately chose a quieter, less pressured life; they sold Whitehall Lane and with Judd founded the much smaller (3000 cases maximum) Judd's Hill east of the Silverado Trail in the town of Napa. A blend of 88% Cab Sauvignon, 7% Merlot, and 5% Cab Franc - all hillside fruit from four different vineyards - this small production wine (1000 cases) spent 20 months in French oak (which previously held Chardonnay for only nine months) with a few new French and American barrique for depth. Of 68 Napa Cabs recently reviewed by the San Francisco Chronicle, this wine received two stars and was among only 14 that were recommended.

Mount Eden Vineyards Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Santa Cruz, 2006 ($49.99) - MEV has been on a roll; the last three vintages have been sensational. The wines strike me as more balanced and refined than most California Cabs. Since they are not high alcohol blockbusters, I wouldn’t have expected Robert Parker to like them, but he does: "93+ The 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Estate exhibits a saturated ruby/purple color as well as more subtle smoke, graphite, damp earth, creme de cassis, and blackberry characteristics and a youthful, full-bodied mouthfeel with impressive concentration, texture, and length. This blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot, and 3% Cabernet Franc from high elevation vineyards (2,000 feet) is capable of lasting two decades or more. This iconic winery continues to offer wines with personalities and styles that set them apart (especially the estate wines) from just about anything else readers will taste from California." The winery must not advertise in the Wine Spectator, for that magazine gives MEV Cabs consistently mediocre reviews!

B.R. Cohn Cabernet Sauvignon “Olive Hill,”  2001 ($49.99) - This is the big brother of the Silver Label Cab. Unusual for California wines today, it is made from 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. All-new French oak rounds out the package. Perhaps it’s the power of suggestion, but I detect olive notes as well as eucalyptus in this smooth, refined wine. Wine Spectator 90: “Impressive for its pure, ripe currant, plum, and blackberry flavors and also its elegance and grace, with supple texture and a complex array of flavors, finishing with a burst of ripe, juicy flavors, integrated tannins, and a touch of cedary oak. Drink now through 2010.” 

Robert Sinsky Cabernet Sauvignon “Vandal Vineyard,” 2004 ($52.95) - Rob Sinsky has been making wine for twenty years. His wife, Maria, has been with him for ten of those. An acclaimed chef in her own right, coming from PlumpJack in San Francisco, Maria runs the kitchen at Sinsky. Sinsky Vineyards has been certified organic since 2001 and is working toward biodynamic certification. The Vandal vineyard lies in the Los Carneros-Napa district and surrounds Rob and Maria’s home. “Some of the thought process that went into our decision to become all-organic started with the fact that our home is in the vineyard. It seemed irresponsible to be using industrial-strength chemicals when we lived so close,” says Rob. Being organic, they don’t have to worry about the chemical residue from spraying and the effects on them and their children, Ella, 7; and Lexi, 5. Made from 100% Cabernet Sauvignon grapes, this is a big impact wine that maintains good balance. There is more than enough fruit to balance the oak. 

Krupp Bros. (Stagecoach Vineyard) Veraison Cabernet Sauvignon, 2004 ($57.99) - Despite the advice of experts, the Krupp family started developing Stagecoach Vineyard on the difficult mountain terrain of Pritchard Hill between Atlas Peak and the hills above Oakville in 1985. Today, with over 500 acres planted, it is the largest contiguous mountain planting in Napa Valley. Its highly prized grapes are sold to 40 wineries including Altamura, August Briggs, Biale, Caymus, Chappellet, Fess Parker, Freemark This beautiful Cab (9% Merlot, 6% Petit Verdot, 4% Cab Franc, and 3% Malbec) was aged for 19 months in 85% new French barrique and bottled unfined and unfiltered. The alcohol and oak are held well in check by the enormous fruit which features blackberries, dark cherries, and plum with hints of dark chocolate, mocha, currants, and sage.

*Angels’ Share: Hestan Vineyards Meyer Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa, 2004 ($57.99) - Hestan Vineyards is located in eastern Napa at the base of Okell Hill. It was purchased and planted in 1996 by Hong Kong-born Stanley and Helen Cheng. Mr. Cheng is the chairman of Meyer Corp., a manufacturer of cookware brands such as Farberware, Circulon, and KitchenAid. Their flagship “Estate” wine is a mere $110 per bottle. The rejected grapes go into this “Meyer” bottling, but the difference between the two wines is very slight. This wine spent 18 months in 50% new French oak. Winemaker Mark Herold also makes the wines at Merus, Buccella, and Harris. Wine Spectator 92: “Firm, intense, and concentrated, with complex blackberry, tobacco, cassis, and anise flavors that are tightly wound and sharply focused, finishing with chewy tannins and a delicious burst of fruit. Best from 2008-2012.” It is a gorgeous wine made from very low yields, and it was neither fined nor filtered.

St. Helena Winery Sauvage, Napa, 2004 ($70, “intro” net price: $59.99) - This is the second vintage of a fabulous blend of mostly Cabernet Sauvignon with some Petit Verdot and Petit Sirah that spent 20 months in new French oak. Only 293 cases were produced (after a whopping 75 cases in 2003). Sarah Gott, wife of Joel Gott, is a highly respected winemaker. Joel makes some wine, but he is primarily involved in grape sourcing and marketing. Sarah was the winemaker for Joseph Phelps’ Insignia before moving on to Quintessa. Tiring of the high profile rat race, she found her niche as a consulting winemaker for several small wineries.
     Peter and Paulette Story left Silicon Valley in 1994 for the wine country lifestyle. They purchased a vineyard, planted 18 acres of grape vines, and built a house. They sold grapes to neighboring Merryvale, and life was simple and tranquil until, inspired by a speaker at the Napa Valley Home Winemakers Association, they hired Sarah in 1999 to show them the ropes of wine making. It soon became clear that the Storys owned a special vineyard. Winemakers at nearby wineries marveled at the wines it produced: deep in color with bold flavors and layered complexity.  The first vintage for St. Helena was 2000.  Two wines are made under the St. Helena Winery label - Scandal and a reserve called Sympa. Both wines are usually sold out through their mailing list. Peter and Paulette’s son, Kristian, caught the wine making bug and purchased grapes from a block of the family vineyard to make his own wine. Together, Kristian and Sarah made Sauvage. Yields: 2-3 tons per acre. Bottled unfined and unfiltered.

St. Helena Winery Cabernet Sauvignon “Séduire,” 2005 ($70, “intro” net price: $59.99) - Peter and Paulette Story are passionate about their wines and are painstaking in their approach to grape growing and wine making. Unlike many boutique wineries, St. Helena is a true estate winery, meaning that the grapes are grown, crushed, fermented, barreled, and aged at the estate. Voted the “Best Boutique Winery” (2000 cases or less) by VinoCritic.com, the Story’s winery is fortunate to have the services of Sarah Gott (Joel’s wife - no, the other Joel) as their consultant. Séduire (the French verb “to seduce”) is, as the name implies, a seductive wine despite its ample size. A blend of 88% Cabernet Sauvignon with Merlot, Petite Sirah, and Petit Verdot, it was cold soaked, fermented with French yeast, aged for 20 months in all new French barrique, and bottled unfined and unfiltered. This big wine will develop over the next few years, but it is balanced enough to enjoy now. Built on crème de cassis, mocha, cherry, currant, and blueberry flavors, it has a silky tannin structure and a long, smooth finish. Production: 418 cases.

Larkmead Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005 ($59.99) - Parker 90: “The 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Estate (93% Cabernet Sauvignon and 7% Petit Verdot) exhibits a deep ruby/purple color, a sweet nose of floral-infused black currants and cherries, some smoke and graphite notes, outstanding density, ripeness, and overall harmony. Still backward and austere in the finish, this is a Medoc look-alike that should drink handsomely between 2010 and 2020+.”

Larkmead Vineyards’ history is practically the history of wine in Napa Valley. Charles and Martha Hitchcock, along with their spirited daughter, Lillie, arrived in San Francisco in the 1850s and purchased 1000 acres in Napa Valley between St. Helena and Calistoga in the 1870s. Lillie, an enthusiastic supporter of the San Francisco Fire Department, later married businessman (and womanizer) Howard Coit. Lillie and Howard moved to Napa where they built a beautiful bungalow she named ‘Larkmead’ for the songs of the many larks on the property. Part of the property was sold in 1892 to Felix Salimna from Switzerland who expanded an old wooden winery and the small vineyard into Larkmead Vineyards. (After her death in 1929 at age 86, Lillie left a third of her fortune to the city of San Francisco, and the city honored her and her beloved Fire Department by building the famous Coit Tower.)
    Salimna built Larkmead’s reputation and steered it through the perils of Prohibition by selling grapes and making sacramental wine. By the late 1930s, Larkmead was bottling under its own label again and was regarded as the smallest of the ‘big four’ wineries in Napa Valley alongside Beaulieu, Inglenook, and Beringer. Harold Olmo, Professor of Viticulture Emeritus at UC Davis, established a clonal station at Larkmead Vineyards during the 1930s and 40s from which he surveyed and classified every grape variety grown in California and developed clones that became the foundation for other great Napa Valley vineyards, including the UC Davis clonal station in Oakville.
    After Felix’s death in 1940, the winery and vineyards changed hands twice before being purchased by Larry and Polly Solari in 1948. Larry commuted to San Francisco, where he worked as sales manager for Italian Swiss Colony, while Polly ran the winery, supervised daily winemaking operations, and raised three children. Larry had a distinguished career in Napa Valley and in the California wine industry. He became President and CEO of United Vintners, the 1,500-member grape grower cooperative that owned Italian Swiss Colony, Inglenook, and later Beaulieu. Larry went on to become President and CEO of United Vintners, an Executive Director of Heublein (which acquired United Vintners), and Chairman of the Wine Institute. His good friend Robert Mondavi, one of the giants of the wine industry, referred to Larry as his “mentor.” Today Larkmead is managed by Larry and Polly’s daughter, Kate Solari Baker, and her husband, Cam Baker.

Justin Isosceles, Paso Robles, 2003 & 2004 ($59.99) - The 2001 Isosceles was one of the best wines at a recent tasting of 2001 Cabs that I had the fortune to attend. I haven't tasted these, but Justin has been on a roll. Very limited.

Murphy-Goode Terra a Lago #4 Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley, 2002 ($59.99) - Tim Murphy, Dale Goode, and Dave Ready began this three-family partnership in 1985. Only 40 barrels of this very limited, very exciting wine were made from Val Peline’s #4 block at Terra a Lago in the southern end of Alexander Valley. Deep and charming, it has aromas of black cherry and cocoa, deep, rich, chewy tannins, flavors of roasted coffee and blackberry creme, and a finish that doesn’t stop. This is a wine that will be great young, but awesome with time!

O'Shaughnessy Howell Mountain Cabernet, 2003 ($64.99) - Very limited. Not tasted, but previous vintages were very special. 

Andrew Geoffrey Cabernet Sauvignon, Spring Mountain (Napa), 2005 ($75) - Twenty-two years after Peter Thompson visited Napa Valley, he bought a 60-acre parcel of prime vineyard property on the highest slopes of Diamond Mountain located along the Mayacamas range between St. Helena and Calistoga. He hired viticulturist Rex Geitner (Sterlingfs Diamond Mountain Ranch, Diamond Creek, Robert Keenan, Stag's Leap Wine Cellars, Domaine Carneros, and Spring Mountain Winery) to plan, clear, and plant 13 acres to Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot. The Merlot was disappointing, so those vines were budded over to CS and PV. Peter named the winery after his sons, Andrew and Geoffrey, and hired noted winemaker John Gibson (eight years at Stag's Leap Wine Cellars and three years at Vine Cliff). The 2005 vintage, Thompson's fifth, was near perfect. A warm summer developed a large crop that required significant crop thinning to maintain fruit concentration and intensity of flavors. The weather cooled slightly in September, extending the growing season well into October. The additional hang time allowed flavors to develop to their fullest and ripened the tannins. After a four day maceration at 55 degrees, fermentation began (90 degrees) with twice-daily pump over. Total skin contact time was 37 days before the wine was put into 80% new French Oak (mostly Allier) for 19 months. The result is spectacular. Parker: 92 "The brilliant 2005 Cab boasts a deep ruby/purple color as well as an elegant perfume of spring flowers, black currants, licorice, cedar, and subtle toasty oak. It is medium to full-bodied with sweet tannin and a long, authoritative, elegant finish. It should drink beautifully for 15 or more years (now - 2022).... Winemaker John Gibson (who fashioned so many beautiful wines at Stag's Leap Wine Cellars in the mid-eighties) has been able to extract a finesse-styled, Bordeaux look-alike from this Diamond Mountain vineyard." Very limited.

*Angels’ Share: Anomaly Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa, 2003 ($79.99) - One of California’s great red wines, only 450 cases were made from a 2.2-acre vineyard adjacent to Hayne Vineyard in western St. Helena. This is the work of Amy Aiken and Mark Porembski who are winemakers at Behrens & Hitchcock. This fabulous wine, made from Cabernet Clone 7, has it all: flavor, complexity and refinement. Its 14.2% alcohol is a little higher than the beautifully balanced 2002 was, but it's well within current norms for Napa Cabernet. Very limited.

Far Niente Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa 2007 ($99.99) - Parker: 93 "The finest Cabernet I have ever tasted from Far Niente may be the 2007 Estate. Its dense purple color is accompanied by fragrant aromatics of creme de cassis, spice box, underbrush, and forest floor. Voluptuously-textured and full-bodied with superb purity and depth as well as a layered, complete finish, this terrific wine should be drinkable before the 2006, but age just as long, 20-25+ years."

Heitz Cabernet Sauvignon “Trailside Vineyard,” 1999 ($109.99) - Heitz wines are difficult to assess when young. Despite early mediocre reviews, this has blossomed into something special with a gorgeous perfume and equally compelling flavors. Parker was unimpressed in 2001: “86. Deep-colored with minty, black currant fruit aromas and sweet fruit and roundness in the mouth, but dominated by austere tannin and a hard, chalky, earthy component. It should last for a decade.” The Wine Spectator said very nice things, but 89 points is a kiss-of-death rating for a wine of this pedigree and price. “Excellent structure, with a firm, refined band of spicy currant, herb, bay leaf, and cedar. Wonderful balance and integration of flavors, with a supple texture and a long, complex finish. Now - 2009.” This wine shows that the reviewers can either be biased or wrong. This is a great wine that will continue to improve.

Verité La Joie, 1999 ($125) - Tanzer 94: “60/40 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Full ruby color. Smoky aromas of currant and roasted tobacco. Lush, sweet, and rich; a huge wine with silky, utterly mouthfilling texture, but also plenty of underlying structure. Finishes with very fine tannins, superb sweetness, and lingering notes of black cherry and violet.” Very limited. Robert Parker: 94! "The 1999 La Joie (59% Cabernet Sauvignon and 41% Merlot) exhibits sumptuous aromas of sweet saddle leather, cigar smoke, chocolaty black currants, and blackberries. It is sweet, rich, full-bodied, complex, and tastes like a Bordeaux on steroids. This is an enormously endowed, classic, distinctive cuvee that must be tasted to be believed. It represents a synthesis between France's Medoc and Northern California's ripe fruit. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2022."

Far Niente Cabernet Sauvignon, 2004 ($125) - Although Far Niente charges outlandish prices for their wines, they really deliver in the best vintages. The 2004 vintage was relatively cool and long with no 100 degree days until early September. By waiting to harvest until after the heat spell, the fruit achieved full ripeness and flavor development. The result is a plush wine with balanced tannins and an underlying silkiness. The 2004 blend is 86% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Petit Verdot, and 4% each Cabernet Franc and Merlot.

Philip Togni Cabernet Sauvignon Estate, 2004 ($115) - Parker: 94-96! “A great vintage for Togni. Glorious perfume of crème de cassis, licorice, graphite, and black olives. Full-bodied and rich with silky tannins which give it more accessibility than most young Togni Cabs.” 

Verite La Joie, 2003 ($169.95) - Parker: 95! “With a saturated dense purple color, this blend of 76% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, and 4% Cab Franc offers smoky, sweet scents of lead pencil shavings, cedar, spice box, volcanic earth, black currants, and smoke. Excellent fruit, full-bodied power, a layered texture, and an exceptionally long finish. Drink 2009-30”

 

Verite Le Desir, 2002 ($169.95) - Parker: 97! “Extraordinary complexity, fabulous richness, and sheer nobleness and beauty. 53% Merlot, 41% Cabernet Franc, and tiny percentages of Cab Sauvignon & Malbec. Dense aromas of creosote, burning wood embers, black-berries, blueberries, and violets are in the full, fabulously complex perfume. Full-bodied, with tremendous complex-ity, a voluptuous texture, and flavors of plum liqueur, figs, chocolate, espresso, and minerals, this is a tour de force in winemaking. Drink: now-2020.”

Additional older vintages and rarities can be found at our Oldies But Goodies page.

Pinot Noir
 Pull 80 Pinot Noir, Oregon, 2008 ($17.99) - This fine value is made by a highly respected McMinnville winery that wishes to remain anonymous. Ten percent of the grapes come from just outside the Willamette, so it carries the Oregon designation. Aged for ten months in used wood, it shows nice cherry and spice character, slightly dark fruit, and good length. The label is a tribute to Patrick Edward Crowley, the President of the New York Central Railroad from 1924-1931. His reputation for demanding a hard day's work and maximum efficiency led his friends and colleagues to coin his initials into the nickname gPull Eighty Cars.h In the early 1900s most locomotives typically pulled only thirty cars. Crowley demanded that all his locomotives over-deliver the norms for his day. This Pinot Noir does the same.

Brutocao Pinot Noir, Anderson Valley (Mendocino), 2006 ($19.99) - Quality Pinot Noir under $20 is the holy grail today. Unlike most other popular varietals, Pinot Noir cannot be mass produced and still maintain character and quality. Competent Cabernet, Merlot, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon Blanc can be made in volume thus keeping cost low, but good Pinot Noir can only be made in small batches. With higher costs for the grapes themselves (due to very high demand) and the inability to obtain economies of scale, Pinot Noirs are necessarily more expensive than other wines, and quality Pinots are that much more expensive. Surprisingly rich in fruit, this wine won three gold and seven silver medals at various American wine competitions. The initial impression is of black cherry fruit, but there is much more going on here. Fairly full and rich with Pinot Noir’s desirable velvety texture, it shows fresh earth and integrated smoky oak. A lively, buoyant wine, it is extremely pleasing now and promises to develop nicely with near-term bottle age. It offers classic Pinot flavors from the cool, coastal Anderson Valley in the heart of Mendocino County. Production was 1770 cases.

Cameron Hughes Pinot Noir Lot 125, Napa-Carneros, 2007 (Reg. $22.99; Sale price: $19.99) - Cameron Hughes is one of several wine brokers who buy excess wine from premium wineries and bottle them under their own labels at much-reduced prices. Each of his purchases is bottled under a lot number and is by definition available in limited quantities. His "business model" has been written up in the Wall Street Journal (May 7, 2010). This youthful wine has plenty of color and flavor, but it does need to be decanted. The nose opens to reveal strawberry, raspberry, and a smoky cola character with nuances of nutmeg and clove. The palate delivers strawberry jam and red cherry with good acidity and a touch of vanilla oak. The grapes were picked late at night and hand-sorted before an 8-day cold soak. The wine was aged for 8 months in 40% new French cooperage. Wine Spectator: 89 "Distinctive for its soft, creamy texture with detailed plum, spice, tobacco, and pleasant earth flavors. Firms up on the finish with more mineral and mushroom notes. Drink now through 2016."

Baccharis Pinot Noir, North Coast, 2006 ($19.99) - Baccharis is the  brainchild of Michael DuBois who makes small-lot, handcrafted,  stylistic wines. Each offering is meant to be a pure expression of the  varietal. The Pinot grapes were purchased from mostly Carneros vineyards. The 2006 vintage was characterized by a long ghang time,h  which means the lengthy, cool season allowed for fully ripe fruit with  great natural acidity. No whole clusters were used (to avoid the  dumbed down, Beaujolais style of many Pinots), and the caps were  punched down by hand during a traditional fermentation. The wine was  aged for 12 months in French oak (20% new, 80% medium toast and 20%  heavy toast). After almost two years in the bottle, this seductive  wine shows a silky texture and flavors of cherry-berries, spice, and  woodsiness. Balancing acidity and a lingering finish complete this  very attractive package. TEMPORARILY SOLD OUT. WE EXPECT MORE IN JUNE.

High Note Pinot Noir, Central Coast, 2005 ($19.99) - Alison Crowe made this wine from purchased grapes. It has medium fruit, good varietal character, and is a solid value. Alison has been both a custom crush provider and client winemaker with California’s Bonny Doon Vineyard and Byington Vineyard & Winery, and Bodegas Salentein in Argentina. Alison is currently the winemaker for Plata Wine Partners, LLC and provides consulting and custom winemaking services to nationally distributed wineries as well as hot startup brands.

Plowbuster Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, 2006 ($24.99) - This is amazingly slick and polished for a second label (Carabella Vineyard). With a velvety texture and clean Pinot Noir character, this delicious wine is a great value. Carabella is a 49-acre site in the new Chehalem Mountains AVA, North Willamette Valley. Twenty-seven acres are planted to five Pinot Noir clones on gravelly volcanic soils. The vineyard is farmed sustainably using no herbicides. "It is all about vineyard site," says geologist, owner, and winemaker Mike Hallock. The vineyard was the culmination of a twelve-year search for a location combining the best criteria of top quality Oregon and French terroirs. Making modest use of new French oak, the focus is on purity of fruit and elegance of style. Hallock uses the diversity within the vineyard to make wines of elegant complexity. There are five Pinot Noir clones currently planted and two more will be planted this fall. The aim is to plant as much diversity within the vineyard as possible, so the winemaker has a broad spectrum of blending elements going into the final blends.

Iris Hill Pinot Noir "Areté," Willamette Valley - Oregon, 2005 (reg $36; sale: $24.99) - Made from mostly Pommard clone with small amounts of Dijon 113 and 114 cropped to only 1.9 tons per acre, this is the antithesis of the ripe, fleshy, California style; with only 12.5% alcohol, it is quite Burgundian and very food friendly. The fermenting juice was punched down by hand twice daily, and the temperature was kept at a relatively high 75-80 degrees. It is stylish and silky with raspberry, black cherry, and spicy earth notes on the nose. The palate is filled with flavors of berries and black plums with hints of cinnamon and oak spice followed by a long and elegant finish. This wine still has cellaring potential. Our supply is limited. Owners Pamela Frye and Richard Boyles planted their Chalice Vineyard in 1996. Three Pinot Noir cuvées are produced. "Areté" is the best and was previously sold only at the tasting room.

Evening Land Pinot Noir "Blue Label," 2008 ($25.99) and Pinot Noir "Estate Seven Springs," 2008 ($39.99) - Wine collector and film producer Mark Tarlov (Christine, Copycat, and The Man Who Knew Too Little) has parleyed his connections in the film, wine, and restaurant industries to produce wine from purchased grapes for wine-by-the-glass programs for restaurateurs such as Thomas Keller, Jean-Georges Vongerichten, Daniel Boulud, and Alain Ducasse. He also got some of America’s leading sommeliers involved including Rajat Parr of Michael Mina and RN74, Daniel Johnnes of Restaurant Daniel, and Bernie Sun of Jean-Georges. Evening Land makes Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs from Oregon, California, and Burgundy. Dominique Lafon, one of the true stars of Burgundy, is the consulting winemaker for the Oregon and Burgundy sides of the project, and these wines show his elegant, Burgundian touch.
    The entry-level "Blue Label" is medium-bodied with a silky texture and a fine spun finish. It tastes of blackberry, black cherries, and wild plums. Lithe acidity and an undertone of minerality give this wine definition. It’s a beautiful expression of Pinot Noir that is tightly focused, well balanced, and nicely textured. The finish is a little lighter than the rich mid-palate, but that is a minor quibble. It’s a great buy that will really hit its stride in a few months!
    The art of the deal is a staple of the movie biz. Tarlov assembled one of the more audacious wine deals in Oregon, reuniting the two halves of Seven Springs Vineyard in the Eola-Amity Hills AVA. It had been split by a family dispute, but Tarlov managed to secure leases with options to buy on both parts, and now has the vineyard exclusively. The Estate Seven Springs is incredibly classy with more richness of fruit and more depth of character.

Bruce Wayne Pinot Noir, 2006 ($25.99) - Bruce and Wayne are back with a lovely wine made from grapes purchased from Seghesio. The Seghesios contracted for more grapes than they could sell under their own label (at $42), so they resold some to Bruce and Wayne. The grapes come from two highly regarded Russian River Valley vineyards, Peter’s Vineyard and Widdoes Vineyard. Widdoes is a 23-acre block of the famous Dutton Ranch. It is used by Capiaux and Lost Canyon. The cool vineyards are planted on low vigor root stock. Meticulous farming ensures vine balance and keeps yields below 2 tons per acre. Soft texture, pretty fruit.

Moondance Cellars Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, 2005 (reg. $29.99; sale $19.99) - This impressive wine was held back until it had aged to perfection. A relatively intense Pinot, it displays lovely aromas of forest floor and mushrooms. The flavor profile includes fig, vanilla, dried black cherries, and spice. It was aged for 18 months in a combination of neutral and light toast French oak. Availability is limited, for only 340 cases were produced.

Cambria Pinot Noir "Benchbreak Vineyard," Santa Maria Valley, 2006 ($29.99) - The maritime influences that funnel in from the ocean make Santa Maria Valley the coolest part of California - perfect for Pinot Noir. The low-yielding Bench Break Vineyard is a small, distinct area of the family-owned Cambria estate. Sitting at the highest elevation on the western side of the property, this site has the shallowest soil on the estate, which restricts vine vigor and yields fruit with concentrated flavors. This wine is dark, exotic, and voluptuous with good minerality. Wine Enthusiast 92: "Bring on the grilled salmon, ahi tuna, pork chops, and smoked country ham. This gorgeous Pinot will let them shine in a supportive way, not overwhelm them. Dry, crisp, and elegantly silky, it shows complex flavors of cherry, cola, rhubarb, licorice, and beef jerky that finish in a swirl of dusty spice."

*Angels’ Share: J. Christopher Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley OR, 2006 ($33.99) - On our first trip to Oregon, my wife and I stayed at Argyle. When we asked what other winery we should visit, we were directed to nearby Cameron, a tiny cult winery. Jay Somers’ first job was with John Paul, winemaker and owner of Cameron. After three vintages he partnered with Bill Holloran, a software executive with a love of wine, and they built a small winery on Holloran’s farm in 1999. In return for making Holloran Winery and Stafford Hill wines, Jay uses the facility to make his own J. Christopher label. Most of his fruit sources are organic vineyards. This wine is absolutely solid in fruit profile, tannin structure, and acidity. Ripe blackberry and bing cherry flavors mix with dense earth to create an irresistible Pinot. The layers of complexity build from the first sip. It focuses initially on earthy notes, but then moves on to fruit notes and finishes with fresh clean acidity. It drinks beautifully now.

Capiaux Cellars Pinot Noir “Chimera,” 2007 ($33.99) is exceptional Pinot and an exceptional value. This sexy, generous wine has beautiful Pinot Noir fruit and is rich and long on the palate. Capiaux Cellars (http://www.capiauxcellars.com) produces single vineyard bottlings of Pinot Noir using traditional Burgundian techniques. Sean Capiaux, who learned his craft at Peter Michael Winery, Jordan, and Pine Ridge, produces wines that express the unique terroir of the source vineyards. Modern equipment is used but with as little intervention as possible. A minimal amount of new oak is used, typically 30%. His Pinots are aged in French oak for 10 months before being bottled unfined and unfiltered.

Clos LaChance Santa Cruz Pinot Noir 2005/2006 ($32.99) - Despite the difficulties of planting, maintaining, and harvesting mountain vineyards, the cool mountains of Santa Cruz are ideal for Pinot Noir. The abundant 2005 vintage was challenging. Winemaker Stephen Tebb ran out of tank space halfway through the harvest. Fortunately the weather turned cool, ripening slowed, and Stephen was able to literally store the grapes on the vine for several weeks until the first batch had finished fermenting. The resulting wine is one of the best Clos LaChance has produced. Technical details: hand-harvested, hand-sorted, gravity-fed transfers, open-top fermenters, punch-downs twice daily increasing to four times daily during the peak of fermentation, 14 months in 40% new and 60% used French oak sur lie (no racking), bottled unfined and unfiltered. Yes, Virginia, a lot of detail goes into making fine wine. The aromas of this complex wine include blueberry, black cherry, forest floor, mushroom, and caramel. Sweet red cherry and strawberry flavors are supplemented by cola and plum. You smoke or grill the duck, turkey, wild game, salmon, or leg of lamb, and I’ll bring the wine!

Badge Pinot Noir, Santa Rita Hills (Santa Barbara), 2005 ($32.99) - Badge is a new Pinot Noir-focused label from winemaker Bruno D'Alfonso who was the winemaker at Sanford for 23 years. This gutsy style of Pinot is very different from that of the Plowbuster. According to the Wine Spectator, the 2005 has "aromas of black cherry, anise and spice. Supple and delicate on the palate with a touch of cola and firm, earthy tannins. Drink now through 2010. 1,000 cases made." Two vineyards were used, 60% from the La Encantada vineyard (clones 667, 115, and Pommard 4) with the balance of the blend (clones 115 and 777) coming form the Gaia Vineyard (formerly Ashleys Vineyard). The wine is sleek and glossy, laden with a delectable profusion of super-ripe plum, cherry, raspberry, and pomegranate fruit accented with alluring vanilla, cola, pepper, sweet herb, and spice notes. It spent 16 months in barrel (60% new French oak) prior to bottling in order to allow the components plenty of time to integrate.

Ponzi Vineyards Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, 2008 ($37.99) - Although we haven't consistently carried its wines, Ponzi has been a favorite since I visited the winery about 12 years ago. Josh Raynolds reviewed this wine in Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar: 91 "Bright red. Sexy, high-pitched aromas of raspberry, cherry, pungent herbs, and fresh rose with a subtle note of allspice after airing. Juicy and open-knit on entry, then firmer in the mid-palate, offering sweet dark berry and cherry-cola flavors, with a dusting of tannins adding shape. Nicely ripe Pinot with a suave finishing sweetness and very good length. This will be approachable early. There are 5,350 cases to go around." Due in early September.

*Angels’ Share: Nicholson Ranch Pinot Noir Estate, 2004 & 2005 ($37.99) - This is a phenomenal Carneros Pinot for the price. Producing high-end Pinot Noir requires that everything be just right: soil, climate, moderate yields, small batches, careful handling of the grapes, and great care and experience in the winery. Only 760 cases of this wine were made from Dijon clones 113, 114, 667, and 777. Thomas Brown, an extremely talented winemaker who previously worked as assistant winemaker at Turley, shows his deft hand with this wine. It has that wonderful bouquet found only in the best Pinots. This wine is soft in texture, rich in fruit, and elegant in style. It shows Burgundian influences along with California ripeness. When just poured from the bottle, it gets better and better in the glass, so I would suggest decanting it for an hour.

Flowers Perennial, 2005 ($39.99) - I’m usually a purist when it comes to Pinot Noir. I suspect that many producers trying to feed the Pinot frenzy are secretly stretching their juice by adding other grapes to the wine. This has the advantage of lowering the cost, covering defects in a cheap Pinot, and giving the public more fruit and color than an honest Pinot Noir usually provides. The truth is that in almost all cases, the delicate character of Pinot Noir is overwhelmed by anything it is blended with. The label on this rarity honestly states that it is a blend of 85% Pinot Noir, 13% Syrah, 1% Pinot Meunier (a very close relative of Pinot Noir), and 1% Chardonnay (!). It doesn’t matter. This sexy, polished wine is delicious, and it has plenty of Pinot Noir flavor. Due in the first week of September.

Sanford Pinot Noir Santa Rita Hills “La Rinconada,” 2001 ($39.99 net) - Was $58! Wine Spectator: 89 “Elegantly styled, with rich, creamy, yet understated, earthy berry, mineral, anise and wild berry flavors that turn delicate on the finish. Has enough tannin and depth to cellar short-term. Drink now through 2007.” The acidity here requires food, but it’s a lot of Pinot! Astonishingly, it comes from a vineyard that is only 6 years old planted next to the famous Sanford and Benedict vineyard in Santa Barbara using special Dijon clones that emphasize ripeness and color. My wife and I visited Sanford in 2002 and everyone was very excited about this vineyard. Its wine will only get better! Very exciting! Very limited!

Saintsbury Pinot Noir “Stanly Ranch,” 2006 ($42.99) - Instead of blending all the grapes from their best Carneros vineyard sources, Saintsbury began keeping a portion separate and bottling them individually in 2004. Stanly Ranch has been a respected vineyard since the 1870s. In the 1950s part owner Louis Martini began clonal trials of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay with the UC Davis and Wente. Saintsbury has purchased Stanly Ranch fruit since the 1984 vintage. The aromatics of this wine display cloves, cinnamon, and rich plum comfiture. The bright fruit shows plum, ripe black fruits, and fresh earth. It has a very lengthy finish with good acid structure and fine tannins. This beauty is built for aging. Drink 2010-2015. Very limited.

*Angels' Share Wine: Cherry Pie Pinot Noir, Stanly Ranch -Carneros, 2006 ($42.99) - Jason Woodbridge, famous for Layer Cake and Hundred Acre, has turned his sights to Pinot Noir. Using grapes purchased from the famous Stanly Ranch (Coho, Saintsbury) in Carneros, he has fashioned a fragrant, fat, juicy, fruit-filled Pinot that will melt in your mouth. Don’t miss it!

*Angels' Share Wine: Coho Wines Pinot Noir “Stanly Ranch,” 2007 ($42.99) - Winemaker Brooks Painer (Stag’s Leap Wine Cellar, Robert Mondavi, and V. Sattui) and sales and marketing guy Gary Lipp (Robert Mondavi, Chalone, Jess Jackson, Paul Hobbs, and Chappellet) founded this winery in 1999. They have their own vineyard, but they also purchase grapes. Like Saintsbury, Coho purchases grapes from the highly respected Stanly Ranch in Carneros. Most of this wine (68%) comes from a small block of Pommard clone planted around 1970. Yields are only 1.5 to 2 tons per acre. The remainder comes from younger vines of Dijon clones 667 and 777. With focused aromas of black cherry, wild berry, and ripe plum, this delicious wine is rich and plush with a velvety texture. It opens with airing to reveal gorgeous, layered flavors of black cherry, plum, and red currant. This is a refined wine with an elegant finish. Only 487 cases were produced.

Varner Pinot Noir, 2004 ($47.99) - Judie and I visited Varner on our recent California trip. Brothers Bob and Jim own 14 hilly acres 30 miles south of San Francisco in the cool hills that form the northern end of the Santa Cruz mountains. Their garage-sized winery is attractive and, well, intimate. Total production is less than 1500 cases. Although Jim found the property and has the oenology degree from UC-Davis, he takes care of the finances, marketing, and their small wine importing business. Bob works the winery - he plants and tends the vines, harvests the grapes, makes the wines, and works the bottling line. Bob also credits Jim for his creative input. When Jim comes back from France brimming with new ideas, Bob’s job is to evaluate and apply them to their local operation. The two brothers also market an inexpensive Edna Valley Chardonnay called “Foxglove,” which is grown and made for them, but which they have some control over.
   Bob started 24 years ago with very little knowledge, but he has learned a tremendous amount about oenology and has strong opinions on the right and wrong way to make fine wine. The right way is invariably harder, more expensive, and produces less wine. He avoids irrigation, imports only the finest French oak barrels, harvests only in the cool of early morning, and employs a severe green harvest in which he cuts off many grape bunches midseason allowing the vines to concentrate their energy into fewer grapes. The result is yields of only two tons per acre. More information can be found at www.varnerwine.com.

Robert Mueller Pinot Noir “Emily’s Cuvée,” 2006 ($47.99) is a new Russian River (Sonoma) release. Mueller makes excellent Pinot, and the “Emily’s Cuvee” has always been his best effort. It combines a ripe, full-bodied approach with bright, layered, complex flavors that are incredibly light on their feet. From its cassis and cherryish fruit tones in the nose to its deep, engagingly vital flavors and its long finish, it finds a level of refinement and grace that is uncommon. The Emily's Cuvee came primarily from a single, well-drained, gravely vineyard that is cooled by fog. Indigenous yeast were used to ferment most of the juice which was aged in 50% new French barrique. The resulting wine is soft, rich, flavorful, and long.

Rodney Strong Pinot Noir Reserve, Russian River Valley, 2007 ($49.99 net) - After a career in dance with Martha Graham, George Ballanchine, and other notables, the late Rodney Strong retired from dance in 1959 and married his lovely, red-headed dancing partner Charlotte Ann Winson. One of Rod Strong's more famous quotes is "I knew I couldn't be an old dancer, but I could be an old winemaker." So he founded a vineyard and winery in Sonoma County. Although he built a reputation primarily for value wines, he also produced some single vineyard, specialty wines of a very high caliber.
     The Russian River Valley is well established as one of the premier Pinot Noir growing regions in the world. The recently planted Jane's Vineyard provided an incredible opportunity to take advantage of the Rod's 30-year experience with Pinot Noir and the newest technology, nursery material, and other modern viticultural advances.
    The vineyard is in a cool, southerly part of the valley. The wine is classically structured with crisp acidity and a silky mouthfeel framing rich, dry flavors of cherries, root beer, and oaky spices. It’s a lovely young Pinot to drink now for its fleshy opulence, but let this beauty air a bit. Wine Spectator: 93! "Tight and compact, with dark, potent, concentrated fruit that fleshes out, with mineral, dried dark berry fruit, spice and tobacco notes, gaining body and complexity. Drink now through 2013." Limited.

Robert Sinskey Vineyards Pinot Noir "Three Amigos Vineyard," 2005 ($49.99) - Native Californian Rob Sinskey’s unusual path to wine began with a degree from Parsons School of Design in Manhattan where the only thing agricultural grew in apartment closets. After a stint in advertising, his father called seeking help with a fledgling vineyard. Rob heeded the call, and his father’s avocation became Rob’s obsession. The operation now covers over 200 acres in the Carneros, Napa’s Stags Leap district, and Sonoma. All are certified organic and biodynamic by Demeter. Rob’s philosophy: "Wine is not an athletic event"; his goal: to make "pure wines of character that pair well with cuisine." Rob believes that wine should not be a "quick study," but rather sneak up on you and seduce you as it evolves in the glass.
    Rob’s first vineyard, Three Amigos, was planted over 25 years ago with heirloom selections and French clones. The coolest of RSV’s vineyards, it is influenced by its proximity to the San Pablo Bay. Its wines are a singular expression of Pinot Noir with a bright, zingy, berry-fruit character of raspberries and cranberries. The 2005 displays layers of complexity beginning with fruit, evolving into earthy notes of black tea, and finishing with hints of subtle cinnamon spice and orange peel. Many consider this wine to be RSV’s most expressive Pinot Noir. It spent 17 months in 30% new French oak. The alcohol here is 14.0%. Only 757 cases were produced.
     Rob's thoughts on Pinot Noir today are a worthwhile read.

Ken Wright Cellars 2007 Pinot Noirs - Located in rural Carlton, Oregon, Ken Wright Cellars produces small quantities of some of Oregon’s best Pinot Noir from selected vineyard sites. We have a limited quantity of the following wines. All are $54.99 per bottle. 

  • Freedom Hill Vineyard is located in the Coast Range just south of Dallas, OR, on Bellpine, (sedimentary) soil. The fruit from the 2.85 acre block is wholly Pommard clone. The vineyard was planted in 1980. Wines from this site tend to be firm, structured, and have great longevity. The vineyard is owned and managed by Dan & Helen Dusschee. Production was 340 cases.

  • Shea Vineyard is in the Yamhill-Carlton District. The fruit is sourced from three small blocks, one each planted with Pommard, Dijon 114, and Dijon 777 clones. Soils are primarily of the Goodin and Melbourne type (sedimentary). The three blocks range in elevation from 450 to 600 feet and were planted in 1989. The wine from this vineyard has a complex array of aromas and flavors including blueberry, spice, and earth. The vineyard is owned by Dick and Deirdre Shea and managed by Javier Marin. Production was 725 cases.

  • Nysa Vineyard was planted in 1990 to own-rooted (ungrafted!) Pommard and Wadenswil clones. It is located in the heart of the Dundee Hills between Domaine Drouhin and Archery Summit on Jory soil with a southeast to northeast inclination. The wines are forward, textural, and elegant. The vineyard is owned and managed by Michael Mega. Production: 350 cases.

Stephen Ross Pinot Noir ‘Stone Corral Vineyard,’ 2004 ($54.99) - This exciting, new vineyard is located in the southeastern portion of the Edna Valley where it enjoys a southeast exposure at the base of rolling hills, which protect it from breezes off the Pacific Ocean just four miles to the west. The vineyard consists of 27.45 acres developed in partnership with Talley Vineyards, of which Stephen Ross occupies 9.15 acres. It was planted in 2001 and is unique in the Edna Valley for its well-drained, sandy, loam soil. It yields a powerful wine which is quite dark in color with a “blue fruit” aroma and has ample polished tannins. It is a rich, concentrated, and velvety Pinot Noir. Despite the youth of the vineyard, Stephen Ross expects it to produce his finest Pinot Noir, and he has priced it above his other bottlings.

Additional older vintages and rarities can be found at our Oldies But Goodies page.

Zinfandel
 Kenwood Zinfandel, Sonoma, 2005 ($13.99) - Very attractive for the price, this Zin shows bright fruit, the alcohol is in check, and it has mellowed nicely after two years in the bottle. Despite its size (annual production is 300,000 cases), Kenwood only has 22 acres of vineyards. The vast majority of its production is from grapes sourced throughout Sonoma County.

Joel Gott Zinfandel, California, 2006 ($15.99) - Every year at this time, we receive our allotment of Gott’s California Zin. A few months later, we run out. Every year around Christmas, customers are disappointed that we have no more. Here it is. Buy a case. Or two! As usual, it’s really delicious with everything a good Zin should have: juicy fruit, lush texture, and an alcohol level that is kept in check. Joel Gott is the son of longtime California winemaker Gary Gott. Joel is married to Sarah Gott. Sarah’s resume includes winemaking duties at Joseph Phelps (1993-2001) where she was responsible for that wineries flagship bottling, “Insignia”. In 2002 Sarah left Phelps to take the reins at Quintessa, another “super premium” Napa proprietary Bordeaux blend. More recently, Sarah has focused her efforts on her ever-expanding line of premium “value” wines under her family's “Joel Gott” label.

Andrus Island Old Vine Zinfandel, 2007 ($19.99) - This may be a tiny production wine (only 89 cases were made in 2007!), but it is a monstrous effort with incredibly lush,  ripe fruit and a whopping 16.71% alcohol. Not quite Turley quality, but it is half the price! Andrus Island is nestled along the Sacramento River. This lush, verdant, delta region is populated by Great Blue Herons and one winery. The grapes for this wine were actually grown by the Manna family in Lodi. Incredibly deep in color, the wine abounds with black cherry and pepper aromas and flavors. Serve it with red meat or pasta on a cold, stay-at-home night. Temporarily Out of Stock

Angels’ Share: Five Vintners Zinfandel, 2006 ($19.99) - Krisi Raymond, the fifth generation winemaker whose wonderful Cabernet was written up last month, also makes this fine Zin. Only 989 cases were produced from 60% Napa and 40% Sonoma (Mauritson Vineyard in Dry Creek Valley) fruit. Like her Cabernet, this is a great value.

Nalle Zinfandel, Dry Creek, 2006 ($29.99) - It's been years since we carried this label, but a recent tasting reminded me of just how good it is. A rarity among Zinfandels, it has a very modest 13.7% alcohol, yet it also has beautifully ripe fruit and crisp acidity. This is a balanced Zin that works very well with food and wonft tire your palate with over-the-top extraction and alcohol. It's a blend of 85% Zinfandel, 8% Petite Sirah, 4% Carignane plus some Mourvèdre, Syrah, and Alicante Bouchet. It was aged in French oak (20% new) for eleven months. Doug and Lee Nalle have been making wine for 25 years. Son Andrew now helps out. The Nalles use grapes from their home vineyard and buy grapes from two neighbors. The vines average 62 year of age and are all head-pruned and spur trained, a method dating to the 19th century.

Banknote "The Vault" Red Blend, Napa, 2006 ($32.99) - Due to a disagreement between the winery and the distributor, Orin Swift's wonderful "The Prisoner" is no longer available in New Jersey. We found this excellent Zinfandel-based substitute, but only 585 cases were produced. Pete Nixon buys top quality grapes from several Napa Valley vineyards and, with consulting winemaker Bill Knuttel, constructs this blend of 62% Zinfandel, 25% Syrah, and 13% Cabernet Sauvignon. This is a big, brawny, and complex wine with aromas of black cherry, cigar box, blackberry, caramel, cassis, vanilla, and a touch of clove. The rich palate follows with cassis, cherry preserves, allspice, tobacco, and latte/espresso. Many reviewers have compared it to "The Prisoner." Some have actually preferred it! A few excerpts from the various reviews: "Slam dunk good," "21st Century Wine Hedonism," "bold, juicy, rich, and gushy." The San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition awarded it a Double Gold - Best of Class. (Admittedly it is a relatively small class.) As Pete says, "Banknote: accept no counterfeits!" Limited.

Merlot
 Pure Merlot, 2006 ($10.99) - The X Winery is one of those California concepts that leave the rest of us scratching our heads. It is actually two wineries in one: X Winery and Amicus Cellars. The latter makes expensive Napa Valley wines, while the former makes value wines under several different labels from numerous sources. The back label reports that they are made by the Underground Winery. Go figure! The offerings under the Pure label are pure values.  The Merlot is also pleasant, if undistinguished, but the Cabernet offers more character and is a very good value.

Bliss Vineyards Merlot, 2006 ($10.99) - This Merlot shows surprisingly good depth of fruit. It is better than most California reds at this price. Blackcherry flavors abound, and it pairs well with roast pork, poultry, and Italian dishes. This wine has won six medals at various fairs. Bliss Vineyards - Good California wines at this price are rare. These are real wines from a specific winery and a specific AVA (Mendocino); they are not generic “California” wines! In 1943 Irv Bliss bought a 450-acre Mendocino property consisting of 60 acres of grapes and figs, but most of the land was used for raising livestock. By the 1970s, Irv was harvesting over 100 acres of mostly Cabernet and Zinfandel. He purchased more land and planted Chardonnay, Petite Sirah, Sauvignon Blanc, and Chenin Blanc, as well as additional acreage of Cab and Zin. Today, the property totals almost 600 acres of grapes. Marriage brought the Brutocao and Bliss families together, and Brutocao Cellars began making wine in 1991. The majority of the grapes are sold to major Sonoma and Napa wineries such as Sterling, Sebastiani, Honig, and Hess!

High Note Merlot, Monterey, 2005 ($11.99) - An attractive, reasonably well-balanced, early-drinking wine with medium fruit and enough structure to give it some grip. Made by Alison Crowe.  Alison has been both a custom crush provider and client winemaker with California’s Bonny Doon Vineyard and Byington Vineyard & Winery, and Bodegas Salentein in Argentina. Alison is currently the winemaker for Plata Wine Partners, LLC and provides consulting and custom winemaking services to nationally distributed wineries as well as hot startup brands.

Cameron Hughes Merlot Lot 169, Napa, 2007 ($14.99) – Cameron Hughes is a wine broker who buys excess wine from premium wineries and bottles under his own label at much-reduced prices. Each purchase is bottled with a lot number and is by definition available in limited quantities. His "business model" was written up in the Wall Street Journal (May 7, 2010). This Napa Merlot displays abundant fruit, a good dollop of oak, and just enough alcohol that you should serve it on the cool side. It’s a hell of a value!

Moondance Cellars Merlot, Napa, 2007 ($16.85) - The new vintage just arrived, and it shows the same fleshy, chocolate-infused character of the 2001. As expected, it is slightly more youthful at this point, but this excellent value will mellow out quickly and provide great enjoyment.

Sawyer Cellars Merlot, Rutherford, 2004 ($41.99) - If you think that no Merlot is worth $42, you are missing the boat. This is a Cabernet lover’s Merlot with a huge, fruit-driven bouquet and rich, classically integrated fruit. Established in 1992, Sawyer’s total production is only 4500 cases. Only French oak barrels are used, and Rutherford “dust” shows in this beauty.

Celani Family Vineyards “Tenacious,” Napa, 2006 ($64.99) - Best known for Ardore Cabernet ($175!), Celani also makes this wonderful blend. Proprietor Tom Celani hired star winemaker Mark Herold, whom The Wine Spectator called, a “…rising star of Napa Cabernets” and selected two of Mark’s wines, Merus and Kobalt, for its “Top 50” list for 2006. Robert Parker consistently rates his wines between 92 and 97 points. Tenacious is bold and rich, yet remarkably approachable thanks to its velvety feel and understated tannins. It is a blend of 85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Franc aged 20 months in French oak barrels (75% new). It shows expressive aromas of black fruit, exotic berries, earth, anise, and roast coffee. The entry is seamless with unctuous, mouth-filling flavors of blackberry, dusty chocolate, and sexy French oak. The tannins are simultaneously silky and structured giving this wine both power and finesse. Approachable now, this unfined and unfiltered wine will drink well for the next 10 years.

Additional older vintages and rarities can be found at our Oldies But Goodies page.  

Others
 Kenwood Red Table Wine 2005 ($7.99) - Here is an amazing value, the perfect solution for everyday enjoyment in these trying economic times. Unknown to most, Kenwood has always made small quantities of flawless, inexpensive wine from leftover batches and some purchased fruit. The is a tasty mutt. Its 36% Merlot, 23% Petite Sirah, 11% Zinfandel, and 11% Carignan are mixed with smaller amounts of Barbera, Cabernet, Syrah, and Sangiovese. A portion was actually aged in barrel! Medium weight and sporting medium amounts of fruit, this is also a clean, balanced, pretty little thing.

Bruce Wayne Syrah, 2005 ($19.98) - This is a delicious fruit bomb from Bruce Walker and Wayne Hansen (of Starry Night fame). It was made by talented wine-makers Bill & Dawnine Dyer. Bill was the cellar master and/or winemaker for 20 years at Sterling and consulted for Marimar Torres and Frogs’ Leap. Dawnine was the winemaker at Dom. Chandon for 25 years! 

Eagle Eye "Syrah, 2005 ($22.99) - Napa’s Eagle Eye winery continues to make delicious wines and release them under some of the worst-looking labels imaginable. Why? I suspect that winemaker (and chef) Bill Wolf simply wants to preserve his marriage! Bill’s wife, Roxanne, is an artist whose work adorns each wine label. I can’t suggest buying these wines as collector’s items. Chateau Mouton Rothschild they are not, but the wines are very good. Using green and sustainable farming practices, Bill makes small lots (400 to 700 cases each) of six to eight different wines each year mostly from their Napa Valley vineyard. The Syrah uses grapes from Contra Costa blended with 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and 4% Zinfandel from their Napa vineyard. Fruit-forward, supple, luscious, and chewy, this is a deeply colored and flavored wine to enjoy with steaks and hearty fall fare.

Wellington Noir de Noir, 2008 ($24.99) - Do not, I repeat, do not mistake this wine for a Pinot Noir! This massive bruiser couldn’t be more different from an elegant, delicate Pinot. It is a blend of four unusual red grape varietals. Alicante Bouchet (which predominates), Lenoir, Grand Noir, and Petite Bouschet are distinguished by the fact that color pigmentation permeates the juice as well as the skins of the grapes. The term for these varietals is "teinturiers." Not surprisingly, they make incredibly dark and deeply flavored wines, especially in low-yielding vintages like 2008. Wellington makes about 125 cases per year of Noir de Noir from grapes grown on their own vineyard and the adjacent Pagani Ranch (made famous by Ridge Vineyards). This wine is only sold at the winery, but 25 cases were mistakenly shipped to the NJ distributor. We have four of them. If you like big, bad, thick, viscous, chewy, jammy yet balanced red wines that burst with ripe fruit and chocolate flavors, don’t miss this one. It was a gold medal winner at the Sonoma County Harvest Fair.

Krupp Bros. (Stagecoach Vineyard) Black Bart Syrah, 2005 ($49.99) - Despite the advice of experts, the Krupp family started developing Stagecoach Vineyard on the difficult mountain terrain of Pritchard Hill between Atlas Peak and the hills above Oakville in 1985. Today, with over 500 acres planted, it is the largest contiguous mountain planting in Napa Valley. Its highly prized grapes are sold to 40 wineries including Altamura, August Briggs, Biale, Caymus, Chappellet, Fess Parker, Freemark Abbey, Hess, Merryvale, Miner Family, Pahlmeyer, Paul Hobbs, Plumpjack, Quintessa, Viader, and ZD! Despite having 10% Viognier in the blend, the fabulous Syrah is intense, rich, juicy, and complex. It is named for the gentleman bandit of the late 1800s who robbed stagecoaches including some that passed through what is now the Stagecoach Vineyard. The infamous Black Bart (really Charles Boles) was a unique figure. Robbing stagecoaches of cash and gold, his legend grew as he became known for his finely tailored appearance, well-mannered demeanor, and the romantic poetry he sometimes left at the scene of his crimes. The outlaw was finally caught, but his impeccable manners earned him early release from jail for good behavior! He disappeared, never to be heard from again.

Viader “V,” 1998 ($64.95) - Delia Viader has been making an outstanding Cabernet/Cab Franc on Howell Mountain for over 10 years. She also makes two other wines in much smaller quantities, a Syrah, and this interesting, complex blend of Petit Verdot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot. There’s not much track record with the “V,” but it generally gets ratings comparable to, and is priced the same as the better-known Red.  The 1998 Red got a 95 from the Wine Spectator. According to Delia, this wine will always be short on production but long on personality. New vintages sell for about $90 at the winery!

Petit Verdot is one of the five “approved” grapes for Bordeaux red wines and is thought to be a cousin of the Cabernet Sauvignon grape. Hugh Johnson has linked it to the Balisca vine that came from Albania via the Greeks during the height of Greek civilization. In the 16th and the first part of the 17th century, Petit Verdot produced a wine called “Cargaison” that provided a hearty drink for ships’ crews headed on extended voyages at sea. Originally planted in the marshy areas of Bordeaux, the Petit Verdot grape is known for small berries, thick skins, and a tendency to ripen late - even later than Cabernet Sauvignon. Although PV is planted by two-thirds of the Médoc cru classé, the late ripening aspect of Petit Verdot never inspired owners to plant a large portion of their vineyard to it. At the same time, the color, the tannin, and the peppery spice that Petit Verdot brought to the final blend was crucial. Many of the top wines in Bordeaux such as Lafite, Latour, Mouton, Margaux, and Léoville-Las-Cases simply won’t make their final blend without it. Petit Verdot comprises less than 1,000 acres in Bordeaux and just over 100 in California. In California, the late season warm spells provide the ripeness in these grapes that the Bordelais could never count on.


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