The wine dearest to Jean-Marc’s heart comes from his home estate in the hills of the Roussillon (Languedoc), one of France’s oldest viticultural areas. Vines were cultivated here by the Romans, perhaps even earlier. With some of the most dramatic topography in Europe, many zones are composed of extremely steep hillsides, resembling Spain’s Priorat in many ways.

With his wife, Eliane, who is also a highly accomplished winemaker, Jean-Marc makes Côté Est Blanc a lovely, unoaked white wine from 60% Grenache Blanc and Grenache Gris (80-year old vines), 30% Chardonnay (20-year old vines), and 10% Marsanne (10-year old vines). The Chardonnay character is not obvious, but the Rhône varietals makes this racy wine taste very much like a quality Côtes du Rhône Blanc. It is quite crisp and sports medium body and very pleasing flavors of citrus, toasted grain, white flowers, apricot, peach, and minerals. Serve it with sushi or other seafood such as crab cakes.

Evodia is a delicious, lively red wine that can take a light chill. It shows balance, good spice, and medium fruit. It will pair nicely with pizza and red meat. This is Jean-Marc’s exciting new project in the DO (Denomination of Origin) Calatayud, one of Spain’s most progressive and promising wine growing regions. Calatayud, which lies 70 miles south-south-east of Rioja, is distinguished by high elevation vineyards planted to Garnacha (Grenache). Altovinum sources grapes from a vineyard with vines up to 100 years old outside the small town of Atea, whose vineyards reach up to 3000 feet, the highest in all of Spain. The remarkable climate at this elevation produces refined wines. In addition, the soil is pure schiste, known as pisara in the local area. Aficionados familiar with the wines of the Priorat and the Roussillon are well acquainted to this soil type and its extraordinary influence on the wines. Importer Eric Solomon and Yolanda Diaz, a native of Calatayud with an intimate knowledge of the DO and its terroir, are also part of the Altovinum project.

Robert Parker just rated these wines:

Côté Est Blanc: 90 Points "Lafage’s 2008 Cote Est (note the slightly different spelling of the name from previous years) comes from Chardonnay, Marsanne, and old Grenache Blanc vines on cobbled soils near the coast, blended with the fruit of centenarian Grenache Gris vines on Pyrenean schist. The wine is aged in tank on its fine lees and the result is not only irresistibly delicious but truly complex. Orange and lime zest, white pepper, narcissus, fennel, and mint in the nose lead to a juicy, bright palate with musky floral perfume and a shimmering interchange of citrus with wet stone, salt, iodine, and other ineffable mineral elements. This will fascinate and refresh in equal measure as well as fiendishly insinuate itself into your culinary regimen over the next 9-12 months, and could also be held a bit longer without fear. Jean-Marc Lafage and his importer-collaborator Eric Solomon continue to render truly mind-boggling values."

Evodia: 88 Points "The garnet-colored 2007 Evodia is 100% Garnacha from vines planted on pure slate soils. The wine was fermented and aged in concrete vats. The nose delivers fragrant minerals and black cherries leading to a sweetly-fruited, smooth-textured, easy-going wine that lacks only complexity. For this price does it matter? Drink it over the next four years. The vineyards for this new project are between 850 and 1000 meters of elevation and the Garnacha vines are up to 100 years of age, planted on pure slate. Purple-colored, this 100% Garnacha offers a lovely perfume of spice box, mineral, and wild cherry. This leads to an intensely fruity wine with loads of flavor, a smooth texture, and a pure, fruit-filled finish."