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Villa Fanelli Primitivo Zeta, 2006
$11.99/bottle   -   $129.49/case

The Puglia district of southeast Italy is known for outstanding values including Li Veli and Salice Salentino. Puglia is also the home of Primitivo, a previously obscure grape until DNA studies showed that it is nearly identical to Zinfandel whose origin was unknown. Investigators initially thought that Puglia was the origin of Zinfandel, but further research suggests that Primitivo and Zinfandel vines are both relatively recent arrivals and clones of a Croatian grape called Crijenak Kastelanski. The Italians, however, dispute this notion, claiming that Primitivo was already growing in southern Italy during the classical Greek period. 

Primitivo, “the earliest,” is so named because of its fast maturation. Traditionally it is the first red grape harvested in Puglia. Although it tastes nothing like Zinfandel, it is a rich, generous, deeply colored, spicy wine that is often rustic in style; with more modern winemaking, it can be enormously appealing. The TTB (Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau), the division of the U.S. Treasury Department responsible for labels and rules, announced that it is considering ruling Zinfandel and Primitivo synonymous for use on wine labels, but, fearing competition, California Zinfandel producers have thus far blocked this ruling.

I’ve known Anthony Verdoni for over 25 years, first as a salesman for what is now Opici Imports in Glen Rock, later as Opici’s Italian wine buyer, and finally on his own since 1996 as an importer and distributor of Italian wines. A former opera singer (tenor), Anthony is a gentleman in an industry that doesn’t always reward the well-mannered. Anthony specializes in small, family-owned Italian wineries  that are committed to both quality and value. He also works on special projects such as Villa Fanelli with enologist Dr. Sabino Russo. Although the grapes for this wine are from Puglia, Russo makes this wine at the Castellani family facility near Pisa. The Villa Puccini label is another Verdoni/Russo project made at this facility.

Two wines are made under the Villa Fanelli label. The “Zeta” (the classical Greek letter symbolizing life) bottling is the premium wine made from the best grapes. Cold fermentation with prolonged skin contact is followed by aging for four months in small French oak barriques. This wine is deep in color with a complex bouquet of berries, herbs, and vanilla. Serve it with steaks, chops, roasted chicken, and cheeses.

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