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The Crusher Cabernet Sauvignon, 2008 The book that will some day be written on the history of the Sebastiani family and winery will conclude that family and business often do not mix. Don Sebastiani, one of founder Samuele's grandsons, at first avoided the family wine business, then controlled by his mother, Sylvia, and run by his oldest brother, Sam. After obtaining a degree in government, Don served as a California State Assemblyman until Sylvia fired Sam, who went off to found his own winery, Viansa. Don took over the reigns as CEO and quadrupled Sebastiani's sales in 15 years. Like his brother before him, Don discovered the difficulties of running a family business and trying to please all the members of the family. After selling off the central valley operation that he had built up, he returned the Sonoma winery and vineyards to the family members and stepped down as CEO in 2001. He then launched Don Sebastiani & Sons with his share of the proceeds. With his contacts in the industry, his new venture acted as a negoçiant, marketing already-made wines under labels such as Smoking Loon, Talus, Mia's Playground, and Screw Kappa Nappa. Many of his labels poked fun at the pretensions of the wine establishment by offering quality and value. That effort has reached its pinnacle with The Crusher. The Crusher is made by the Wilson family who have large vineyard holdings in Clarksburg, a wine-growing region nestled in the Sacramento River Delta. Hot summer days are somewhat moderated by cool delta breezes. The warmth and rich delta soil preclude the production of great wine, but it's hard to beat these wines for ripe, rich fruit flavor and outright value. The dark Cab has enticing aromas of raspberries, plums, and spice. Lively, clean, and very varietal fruit comes through on the palate with a focused blackberry profile and notes of fresh coffee and dusty, sweet leather. The specific Cabernet clones planted at Wilson Vineyards, along with their viticultural practices, produce relatively small grapes which contributes to the concentration and secondary flavors in this wine. This is a full-bodied Cabernet with a core of well-ripened tannins and none of the "cheap" taste so common in California wines at this price. The even darker Petite Sirah is rich and complex with aromas of blueberry and cassis with a hint of spearmint. The supple palate shows lip-smacking caramel and French vanilla sappiness followed by a ripe cassis finish. The wine has balanced acidity and firm but very ripe tannins. Serve these wines with hearty fare such as short ribs.
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