We're often asked how we choose a wine to feature each month. Thanks to our numerous suppliers, we get to taste at least 75 prospective wines each month. Perhaps 25 of those are appropriately priced for our program, but rarely are more than a few good enough to consider. We tend to choose more reds than whites (except in the warmer months) because that's the trend among consumers. Beyond that, we just wait for a wine to really grab us. That wine could be an exceptional value, it could be unusual, or it could have a compelling story. Obviously the quality has to be top notch.

Tratturi Fiano fits all three reasons to be chosen. It is certainly unusual and has an interesting story. The Fiano grape is known for its sturdiness and its ability to develop in bottle. As it ages, it can mature from honeyed through spicy to nutty flavors. Fiano is indigenous to southern Italy, specifically the volcanic hills in Campania (east of Naples) where it is famous for Fiano dfAvellino, one of Italy's best and most expensive white wines. This ancient grape has been cultivated for at least two thousand years. The Romans called it Vitis Apiana because the sweet grapes were irresistible to bees (api as in apiary). The wine was highly appreciated in the Middle Ages. An order for three "salme" (a measure) of Fiano is entered in the register of Frederick II, the Holy Roman Emperor from 1220 until 1250. And Charles d'Anjou (also called Charles I) must have enjoyed the wine, for he had 16,000 Fiano vines planted in the royal vineyards. (Charles was the King of Sicily in the years after 1266. His capital was at Naples.)

As far as value, we were blown away by just how good this wine is for its modest price. Whereas Fiano d'Avellino typically sells for $25 or more, this Fiano is half that price because it is sourced from less prestigious Sicily, not because the quality is inferior; in fact, the quality is terrific! The grapes were grown in chalky clay soil, and the wine was fermented in stainless steel at a cool 50 degrees to preserve the fruit. Intense straw-yellow in color, it has marvelous floral aromatics and crisp, fresh, and harmonious flavors of ripe pears, honey, and toasted hazelnuts. It pairs wonderfully with most fish and seafood dishes. It also shines with foods with high fat content such as triple creme cheeses, salami, sausages, etc. Try it with Salmon Canapés. Beautiful to drink now, this wine will evolve for two to three more years. Looking to venture beyond Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, and Sauvignon Blanc? Try this compelling Fiano!