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Angels' Share Wines

Look for this name! We are bringing in some very special California wines in limited quantities. Angels’ Share Wines is a company founded by Mark Snyder, a sound expert who designs the acoustics for Billy Joel and several well known rock groups. Always passionate about wine, Mark was introduced by some of his celebrity contacts to Bob Foley and a few other wine makers who introduced him to some of the small “garage” wineries in Napa Valley. He also met several cult winemakers who, in addition to their regular jobs, make high quality, limited production wines. Think winemakers and vineyards associated with such prestigious wineries as Behrens & Hitchcock, Bryant Family, Turley, Tofanelli, Stags’ Leap Winery, Colgin, Caymus, Duckhorn, Grace, Whitehall Lane, Vineyard 29, and Montelena!

Whites

  • TuTu Pinot Grigio, Napa Valley, 2005 ($15.99) - Wierd name, pretty label, pretty wine! This is a venture by partners Rob Lawson (winemaker) and Jeff Smith (Hourglass Winery). Production was 1500 cases. The label was designed by local Napa artist Jeff Ellsworth. The wine shows delicious and ripe fruit flavors along with a surprisingly good finish.

  • Shelter Sauvignon Blanc, Napa, 2008 ($19.99) - The best wineries and the best winemakers often have small lots of high-end wine left over after blending. With their friendships and deep rooted relationships in Napa Valley, the owners of the Shelter project can buy this wine at a fraction of the original price. They end up with excellent wine that sells for well under its inherent value. No pretension - just killer wine. The sources are “sheltered” from the public (and from me). These wines are a steal! We will be getting different batches from time to time. There will be little continuity, for the amounts available are by definition small - a few hundred cases at most. This stunning Sauvignon Blanc, our first Shelter offering, is everything you could possibly want from a new world Sauvignon. It has lovely aromatics focused on melon, pineapple, and fig with grapefruit showing underneath. With its soft texture, and deliciously ripe fruit, this fairly full-bodied wine is a find. Approximately 300 cases were made.

  • Vogelzang Sauvignon Blanc, 2007 ($31.99) - This is the best, most complete American SB I have tasted in a long time. It shows a refinement and balance that are rare. Much as I like the Grgich Fumé, this one is better. I couldn’t find a review of this wine, but Parker’s comments on the 2005 are also appropriate for the 2007: 90 “An outstanding example of this varietal. It is a green, grassy effort with plenty of power as well as intensity, acidity, and flavor. The aromas and flavors lean toward the grassy, melony side of Sauvignon. Drink it over the next 1-2 years.” In addition to making their own wine, Jim and Mary Beth Vogelzang sell grapes from their 77-acre property in the Happy Canyon region of the Santa Ynez Valley (Santa Barbara County) to Foxen, Qupe, and others. More info can be found at www.vogelzangvineyard.com

  • Scholium Project ‘Heliopolis’ Verdelho, Delu Vyd, Clarksburg, 2006 ($24.99) - Winemaker Abe Schoener is somewhere between a radical, an anarchist, and a heretic. He will either be remembered as a genius or a nut, but not as just another, mainstream winemaker. He buys grapes only from vineyards that impress him, and he makes some of the best, most interesting wines in California (and a few in France) as well as some of the worst. In other words, he doesn’t play it safe; he takes chances. His wines are always exciting, sometimes challenging. We have three other wines by Abe, but this is the first one in our newsletter. Made from the Verdelho grape, which is most closely associated with Spain, it is Sauvignon Blanc-like but unique with an olive oil-gold color and unusual aromatics of earth and brine. The long palate is smooth, elegant, meaty, and complex with baked apples, dried apricots, citrus, and bacon notes. Space precludes a full discussion of Abe’s philosophy, techniques, and wines, but you can read Eric Asimov’s take in the New York Times at www.nytimes.com/2008/09/10/dining/10pour.html

  • Nicholson Ranch Estate Chardonnay, Sonoma, 2006 ($29.99) and Chardonnay "Cuvée Natalie," 2003 ($47.50) - New additions, not yet tasted. Made by Thomas Brown, an extremely talented winemaker who previously worked as assistant winemaker at Turley.

  • Surh-Luchtel Viognier “Fortunati Vineyard,” Napa (Oak Knoll), 2006 ($32.99) - This is one of the best and most interesting white wines I have tasted in months. It is not a wonderful Viognier because it does not have much Viognier character. It is, however, an outstanding, lees aged, unoaked white wine with a perfect balance of clean fruit and refreshing acidity. It shows neither the sweetness nor the high alcohol typical of Viognier. Yum, yum, yum! Don Surh and Gary Luchtel make small batches of wine from purchased grapes. We also carry their Gary’s Vineyard Pinot Noir. Go to www.surhluchtel for more info.

Red

  • Layer Cake Shiraz, 2008 ($17.99; $15.99 special introductory price) -  Jayson Woodbridge is uncompromising in his quest to produce the finest Cabernet Sauvignon in America. His Hundred Acre Cabernet is a cult wine that gets stellar reviews and sells for $250 per bottle! Along with fellow winemaker Philippe Melka, Jayson is also involved with an Australian project. Layer Cake is a Barossa Valley Shiraz from four different vineyard sites along the “golden mile,” so called because of the stunning quality of the fruit that comes from this region. (This is the primary source of Penfold’s Grange!) Layer Cake compares favorably to many $30 Australian wines. The violet and blueberry scent leads into sweet blackcherry flavors. It has dense and bountiful dark fruit without being overtly lush. Intense mocha undertones accentuate a weighty mid-palate and gorgeous mouthfeel, yet the wine is light on its feet and finishes clean and pure.
        Layer Cake comes from sustainably farmed vineyards that are low-yielding (3-4 tons per acre as opposed to 7-8 tons almost everywhere else in the valley). A portion of the wine spends some time in new French oak and it is bottled unfined and unfiltered with minimal sulfuring. While much of the Shiraz on the market today is overripe, overoaked, and brimming with alcohol, Layer Cake is irrefutable evidence that great wine can be made in a balanced “New World” style without going overboard. Not surprisingly, the 2005 Layer Cake Shiraz made Food and Wine’s list of “Australia’s Best Reds Under $20.”

  • Layer Cake Primitivo, Puglia, 2006 ($17.99) and Malbec, Mendoza, 2007 ($17.99), and Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa, 2007 ($25.99) - American Jayson Woodbridge (Hundred Acre) teamed up with fellow winemaker Philippe Melka to make the wonderful Australian Layer Cake Shiraz. Expanding on the success of the Shiraz, the team is sourcing fruit from around the world to make additional wines under the Layer Cake label. None of these wines will be available year round, for the production is limited. The Italian Primitivo (Zinfandel) is terrific. It distinctly shows Australian and Californian influences and tastes much less “Italian” than most Primitivos. Enjoy this delicious, rich, melt-in-your mouth wine. The Malbec is a beautiful example of the type with layers of rich fruit in a soft, harmonious whole. Both are stylistically similar to the Shiraz. The flavor profiles are, of course, different. The Cabernet was a little disappointing when first released, but it has really developed nicely.

  • Five Vintners Zinfandel, 2002 ($19.99) - Krisi Raymond, the fifth generation winemaker whose wonderful Cabernet was written up last month, also makes this fine Zin. Only 989 cases were produced from 60% Napa and 40% Sonoma (Mauritson Vineyard in Dry Creek Valley) fruit. Like her Cabernet, this is a great value.

  • Esca Cabernet Sauvignon, 2004 ($29.99) - A great Cabernet value! Esca means ‘allurement’ in Italian, and this alluring wine was made by Anna and Mario Monticelli who met at UC Davis while earning their degrees in Viticulture and Enology. Anna worked at Chateau Cheval Blanc in St. Emilion and Bryant Family in Napa, while Mario interned at Antinori in Tuscany before they began making their own wines (Cab and Syrah) in Napa. This is their third vintage using grapes grown on the western hillsides of St. Helena in the Spring Mountain AVA. Only 800 cases of this 100% Cabernet were produced. The wine spent 21 months in French oak. It is dark, rich, and concentrated. The nose reveals ripe currant and blackberry aromas intermixed with hints of cedar and sage. The wine is well structured with good acidity and soft tannins. And yes, Virginia, it comes with a screw-cap!

  • Banknote "The Vault" Red Blend, Napa, 2006 ($32.99) - Due to a disagreement between the winery and the distributor, Orin Swift's wonderful "The Prisoner" is no longer available in New Jersey. We found this excellent Zinfandel-based substitute, but only 585 cases were produced. Pete Nixon buys top quality grapes from several Napa Valley vineyards and, with consulting winemaker Bill Knuttel, constructs this blend of 62% Zinfandel, 25% Syrah, and 13% Cabernet Sauvignon. This is a big, brawny, and complex wine with aromas of black cherry, cigar box, blackberry, caramel, cassis, vanilla, and a touch of clove. The rich palate follows with cassis, cherry preserves, allspice, tobacco, and latte/espresso. Many reviewers have compared it to "The Prisoner." Some have actually preferred it! A few excerpts from the various reviews: "Slam dunk good," "21st Century Wine Hedonism," "bold, juicy, rich, and gushy." The San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition awarded it a Double Gold - Best of Class. (Admittedly it is a relatively small class.) As Pete says, "Banknote: accept no counterfeits!" Limited.

  • Fisticuffs Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa, 2007 ($33.99) - New addition, not yet tasted.

  • Robert Foley Vineyards "The Griffin" Red Wine, Napa, 2007 ($34.99) - New addition, not yet tasted, but Robert Foley is a legend among California winemakers. This is a blend of 43% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Petite Sirah, and 22% Merlot. SOLD OUT. We're waiting for the 2008.

  • Tamber Bey Vineyards Two Rivers Cabernet, 2004/2005 ($34.99) - Don’t worry that this is a 2004; it is already delicious! Tamber Bey is an exciting new project using vineyards owned by Barry and Carol Waitte, vineyard management by Josh Clark, and the immense wine making talent of Thomas Brown who began at Turley and also consults with Outpost, Chiarello, Shrader, and Nicholson Ranch. Only 600 cases were produced from 80% Cabernet and 20% Merlot grapes grown east of Yountville in Napa Valley. Most Angels’ Share wines are expensive, but this is not. It’s very serious for its price (www.tamberbey.com).

  • Schrader Cellars Double Diamond Beckstoffer Amber Knolls Vineyard (Red Hills, Lake County) Cabernet Sauvignon, 2003 ($33.99) - Fred Schrader gained fame in the wine world in 1992 when he and Ann Colgin produced the Colgin Schrader Cabernet from Herb Lamb Vineyard on Howell Mountain. Fred’s Double Diamond series features wines from mountain vineyards. Like the Mayacamus bottling, this one shows the incredible concentration and balance of mountain-grown fruit. It tastes like a much more expensive Cabernet!

  • J. Christopher Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley OR, 2006 ($33.99) - On our first trip to Oregon, my wife and I stayed at Argyle. When we asked what other winery we should visit, we were directed to nearby Cameron, a tiny cult winery. Jay Somers’ first job was with John Paul, winemaker and owner of Cameron. After three vintages he partnered with Bill Holloran, a software executive with a love of wine, and they built a small winery on Holloran’s farm in 1999. In return for making Holloran Winery and Stafford Hill wines, Jay uses the facility to make his own J. Christopher label. Most of his fruit sources are organic vineyards. This wine is absolutely solid in fruit profile, tannin structure, and acidity. Ripe blackberry and bing cherry flavors mix with dense earth to create an irresistible Pinot. The layers of complexity build from the first sip. It focuses initially on earthy notes, but then moves on to fruit notes and finishes with fresh clean acidity. It drinks beautifully now.

  • Five Vinters Wines Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005 ($36.99) - The name refers to the fact that Krisi Raymond is a fifth generation winemaker. Her Great-Grandfather was Jacob Beringer (yes that Beringer). Her father is Roy Raymond (yes that Raymond). Krisi obviously grew up around wine production and has a real passion for producing high quality, varietally correct wines at extraordinary values. Only 620 cases of this 100% Cabernet were produced from grapes sourced mostly in St. Helena and Rutherford. Joel’s tasting notes: “Wow! Great value!! Soft, open knit, but deep and rich. Fleshy and sexy.”

  • Nicholson Ranch Pinot Noir Estate, 2005 ($37.99) - This is a phenomenal Carneros Pinot for the price. Producing high-end Pinot Noir requires that everything be just right: soil, climate, moderate yields, small batches, careful handling of the grapes, and great care and experience in the winery. Only 760 cases of this wine were made from Dijon clones 113, 114, 667, and 777. Thomas Brown, an extremely talented winemaker who previously worked as assistant winemaker at Turley, shows his deft hand with this wine. It has that wonderful bouquet found only in the best Pinots. This wine is soft in texture, rich in fruit, and elegant in style. It shows Burgundian influences along with California ripeness. When just poured from the bottle, it gets better and better in the glass, so I would suggest decanting it for an hour.

  • Cherry Pie Pinot Noir, Stanly Ranch -Carneros, 2006 ($42.99) - Jason Woodbridge, famous for Layer Cake and Hundred Acre, has turned his sights to Pinot Noir. Using grapes purchased from the famous Stanly Ranch (Coho, Saintsbury) in Carneros, he has fashioned a fragrant, fat, juicy, fruit-filled Pinot that will melt in your mouth. Don’t miss it!

  • Coho Wines Pinot Noir “Stanly Ranch,” 2007 ($42.99) - Winemaker Brooks Painter (Stag’s Leap Wine Cellar, Robert Mondavi, and V. Sattui) and sales and marketing guy Gary Lipp (Robert Mondavi, Chalone, Jess Jackson, Paul Hobbs, and Chappellet) founded this winery in 1999. They have their own vineyard, but they also purchase grapes. Like Saintsbury, Coho purchases grapes from the highly respected Stanly Ranch in Carneros. Most of this wine (68%) comes from a small block of Pommard clone planted around 1970. Yields are only 1.5 to 2 tons per acre. The remainder comes from younger vines of Dijon clones 667 and 777. With focused aromas of black cherry, wild berry, and ripe plum, this delicious wine is rich and plush with a velvety texture. It opens with airing to reveal layered flavors of black cherry, plum, and red currant. This is a delicious, refined wine with an elegant finish. Only 487 cases were produced. 

  • Favia Leviathan 2005 ($46.99) - This wine is like the "Prisoner" on steroids. Which is amazing because the "Prisoner" is a huge wine.

  • Hestan Vineyards Meyer Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa, 2004 ($57.99) - Hestan Vineyards is located in eastern Napa at the base of Okell Hill. It was purchased and planted in 1996 by Hong Kong-born Stanley and Helen Cheng. Mr. Cheng is the chairman of Meyer Corp., a manufacturer of cookware brands such as Farberware, Circulon, and KitchenAid. Their flagship “Estate” wine is a mere $110 per bottle. The rejected grapes go into this “Meyer” bottling, but the difference between the two wines is very slight. This wine spent 18 months in 50% new French oak. Winemaker Mark Herold also makes the wines at Merus, Buccella, and Harris. Wine Spectator on the 2003: 92 “Firm, intense, and concentrated, with complex blackberry, tobacco, cassis, and anise flavors that are tightly wound and sharply focused, finishing with chewy tannins and a delicious burst of fruit. Best from 2008-2012.” This is a gorgeous wine made from very low yields, and it was neither fined nor filtered.

  • Schrader Cellars Double Diamond Mayacamas Cabernet Sauvignon, 2003 ($58.99) - Fred Schrader gained fame in the wine world in 1992 when he and Ann Colgin produced the Colgin Schrader Cabernet from Herb Lamb Vineyard on Howell Mountain. Fred’s small vineyard on the Sonoma side of the Mayacamas Mountain range is planted exclusively to Clone 337 of Cabernet Sauvignon. With only 225 cases produced, this wine shows the incredible concentration and balance of mountain-grown fruit. A winner!

  • Orin-Swift Cellars Mercurey Head Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005 ($79.99 net) - Winemaker Dave Phinney works with legendary grower Vince Tofanelli who sells grapes to Turley. We still have a few bottles of his high-end Mercurey Head Cab, but "The Prisoner" is sold out and will not be available in New Jersey again until at least 2011.

  • Anomaly Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa, 2003 ($79.99) - One of California’s great red wines, only 450 cases were made from a 2.2-acre vineyard adjacent to Hayne Vineyard in western St. Helena. This is the work of Amy Aiken and Mark Porembski who are winemakers at Behrens & Hitchcock. This fabulous wine, made from Cabernet Clone 7, has it all: flavor, complexity and refinement. Its 14.2% alcohol is a little higher than the beautifully balanced 2002 was, but it's well within current norms for Napa Cabernet. Very limited.

  • Stanton Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, Oakville, Napa, 2003 ($89.99) - Doug Stanton is one of Napa Valley’s greatest farmer/growers, providing fruit for Caymus, Duckhorn, and others. He now sets aside some of his best fruit which winemaker Dave Phinney turns into one of California’s best wines. This exceptional, distinctive, and huge wine is a blend of 93% Cabernet and 7% Petite Verdot. Dave never uses more than 20% new oak. This wine is expensive, but it is easily the equal of some famous Napa wines that sell for $125 - $160.

  • Sherwin Family Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa, 2004 ($94.99) - We've been waiting for this beauty since we sold out of the 2003. Steve Sherwin is the brains (and much of the brawn) behind this venture. Mike Hirby (of Behrens & Hitchcock) is the wine maker. Approximately 720 cases of this 75% Cabernet (15% Merlot, 10% Cab Franc) were made at Steve's inovative, gravity-flow winery on Spring Mountain.

  • Robert Foley Claret, 2005 ($125) - A cult wine. Very limited.

 


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